idosubaru

EJ25 exhaust manifold will only bolt up to one EJ22 ever made - and you happen to have the right one - a 1995. won't work for any other years. either well done - or excellent luck!

good job!

can do an EJ22/EJ25 timing belt in 45 minutes....definitely not worth pulling an engine for water pump and seals up front. granted it'll take you more the first time...but so will pulling the engine, lol. timing belts are really simple on these things, i'd just do a front end timing belt, water pump, crank seal, cam seals, cam cap orings, reseal the oil pump, and see what you got. water pump has an associated bypass hose and clamps, make sure that's not leaking. thermostat housings can crack too - two simple and easy places to leak. since EJ22's generally never have headgasket issues then this all seems more likely.

rear sway bar end link is broke and when you turn the nut of course the stud just turns. is there any simple removal method beyond cutting it off , that seems silly to cut off every one in the rust belt? doesn't look like enough room to get my impact in there between the nut and rear backing plate/disc set up...i could use a wobble joint i guess.

call a pre purchase inspection company, that's what they do - they know how to look for wrecked vehicles/body work. they are keen and have a good eye for those. and they're good at documenting the condition of paint, dings, interior, looks, cosmetics. that said, i find them weak in mechanical/reliability aspects, but most of their clients aren't really buying cars where that's going to be much of an issue anyway...so market driven. they're just looking at basics, you'll get zero platform/Subaru specific feedback, subpar mechanical review, and basically mostly do garage queen BMW's for their clientele and will laugh at Subarus. does cinci have any subaru places? probably at least one? they would be able to give a more thorough mechanical run down and know Subaru specific traits to look for depending on platform, trans, engine, etc. but, while they are experienced and know the principles and ideas of bodywork they probably aren't nearly as trained and focused on that key area. best mix would be to do both if you're the anal type....but most aren't up for that. heck someone on this board could do the Subaru specific part.

probably want subaruoutback.org. good representation and delineation of outbacks. sometimes thick with back seat/arm chair diatribes...unless of course you enjoy inexperienced debating with no practical real world application which is more prevalent amongst new car owners, then that's the place for you. "what type of oil should i use, what's the bypass pressure of a Subaru oil filter...etc" for instance. cardoc knows his stuff, keep your eye on him. keep USMB in mind for maintenance, repair, technical questions, there's fewer inexperienced replies and less talk about things that don't much matter to wade through.

are you sure it wasn't just the guide pins that were sticking, that's the case 99% of the time. otherwise yeah the lines are never hard to get off even for us rust coast people - be sure to use a 6 point socket. take a good quality hand metal saw (they can be quite compact) and you can saw through lines/brackets to make removal easier if you want to take some brake line with it, then you can unbolt at home on your own time. hang old caliper aside, bolt new caliper in place, prefill it with brake fluid, and then quickly swap the brake line and you won't really need to do much if any bleeding and you'll only have to bleed one caliper. rebuild kits are like $1 too. remove piston, clean everything up, put back together, it's really easy i just did one yesterday.

how did you confirm the 99-03 will swap? that's great. yes - you can simply swap the rear diff to match and you're golden, it should make no difference, i've done it before in 96-99 generation stuff. i seem to recall some speed sensor differences, but i can't recall what those might be....compare pictures on ebay of a 99 to a 02 or check opposed forces for speed sensors? i feel like one has 2 speed sensors and another has 3 or something like that...it's hazy or completely off base.

EJ22's never blow headgaskets so just stick with OEM, there's no compelling reason at all to deviate from that. some of the Fel Pro's are good quality but i haven't seen them for the older Phase I EJ vehicles. General Disorder has the "post apocalyptic head resurface" write up on this forum, check it out. if you can change your oil you can do it yourself. it's really easy, there's just one piece of easy to find equipment you need to get to do it. after that everything you need is at walmart and it takes 3 minutes. it's worth it just to not go drop them off, wait, go pick them up, etc. saves time which is money.

use a regular accessory charger or there will be a way to add what you want. the car battery certainly doesn't care and the phone battery won't either if you stay with the name brand charger designed for the specific device.

didn't use it, ended up not being a failed wheel bearing. a lug stud sheared off and had loose lug nuts, which were tightened a week ago...again...it's had multiple loose lug nuts before. finally noticed a sheared off bolt in the threaded rotor hole sticking out above the rotor surface. same rotor that was on the car when i got it, so it's been like that. replaced the broken stud and drilled out the remains of the bolt. this knuckle in question gets saved for later...

great thanks Rob. i'll install it today.

i have a set of two, Subaru part #: 21342GA020 paypal $10 to my username here @yahoo and i'll mail them to you.

a front XT6 knuckle i want to swap in my daily driver is confusing. came from a previous daily driver, had new bearings installed preventatively, put 10-20k on it before parting the car out. but now that I'm going to use it...it's not bad like a normal bearing but it's not as smooth as some of the other hubs I have lying around. it's tight, not loose, no noise. maybe a slight lumpines is the word? i have the other side knuckle from the same car (same preventative wheel bearing replacement/miles) and it's fine. if one suggests they're bad - why would the bearings have been good before but have issues now? no way, it's done? or it may yet have a chance?

ha, i sent a note to the mechanic that recommended that place, wonder if he's ever used them. that's funny, you're the first person i've ever pointed to that site. good catch. stick to car-parts.com

replace the fuel filter, maybe it's clogged and putting too much strain on the pump. i'd look for low mileage used pumps before going with aftermarkets, they aren't known for being robust and lasting a long time like the subaru ones and new Subaru pumps are insanely expensive. i would doubt the VSS is the cause.

these guys http://www.tein.com/products/superpro_price_07.html have SPF2239K bushings for $35 which were installed on a Subaru XT (EA82) by a member on Subaruxt.com, not sure they're the same but probably.

simplest to get Subaru parts on those, order from Shawn linked above, good prices and good guy who knows older subaru's well. post here in parts wanted forum for an intake hose.

the rear latch assembly, with all handles, plates, bracket, lights, are nice to hold onto or provide for someone in the rust belt because they do this all the time: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/attachments/problems-maintenance/9430d1109317358-tail-gate-handle-subie-033.jpg some/all of those parts are interchangeable across a wide array of Subarus too...i think the 95-99 and 00-04's are the same, they are prime sellers in rust country. i forget price though, i think they're relatively inexpensive parts, but it's nice to have a complete set/assembly with lights, hardware, and all too.

EJ timing belt failure is rare, it's probably as much to worry about in this case as wondering if the next person that does it...does it properly, doesn't get auto fluids on the belt, doesn't stress the tensioner (which causes them to leak/fail).... but you are smart to consider replacing sooner than later. who knows with a vehicle that sat for awhile.

it's likely other ones will change - likely they only call it a "one year" because the body style changed the next year. 98 and earlier will not - so if there are ones that interchange it'll be the newer Phase II transmissions like 00 - ?? a quick google search showed a couple low key comments that said the later ones would...but i didn't see any specific experience, with some digging up or posting "what interchanges with 1999 transmission" threads you might hear from someone that's done it.

$999.00 engine at the place i was talking about, and it's relatively close so shipping should be reasonable if the international thing doesn't kill it, maybe have a shop in Buffalo new york receive it for you then pick it up? http://www.jdmenginedepot.com/jdm_engine_details/190/Subaru_EZ30D_Legacy_Outback_3.0R_/_Lancaster_6_Engine closer and i'd take it, 15 hours is too much.

we use www.car-parts.com all the time, there are some canadian listings there. there's a very popular JDM supplier in Philly, JDMdepot that i know some subaru peeps use/suggest. if you took it to a scrap yard, how much do you want for it? they'll generally tell you how much they'll give you over the phone, depending on the yard. many scrap yards are simply the $X per hundred pounds formula, just call and ask. a junk yard will generally give more for a vehicle with any value (which would be yours). down here you'd get about $250 at a scrap yard and $500 at a junk yard or the rare scrap yard willing to part it a bit and pass along the higher values (conveters, electric motors, etc) to you. best bet is to find a place that's willing to let you know that the engine came out of a wreck and the engine wasn't damaged in the collission. a wrecked car strongly implies the engine was perfectly fine when the wreck occurred. be sure to replace the two serpentine belt pulley bearings right away, they fail all the time. the bearings are only $5 each and takes 15 minutes to knock out. or $20 each for an aftermarket equivalent (but you'll need a part number, they won't be able to look it up, but some subaru folks have matched it, i can post it later). or much more from the dealer. they fail so often i consider them immediate maintenance on anyone i know that gets one and check them every 50k or so. H6's do occasionally have headgasket issues, finding out your warrant on a used engine would be good. usually 3 - 6 month warranty is an average for used car dealers around here.

actually i'm pretty sure it's mostly isolated to 99...a very few 98 and 00 bleedovers, but i think it's nearly entirely a 99 issue like the speedometer head too.

the tube is not to get stuck like that, but it does happen, they can be time-welded on there like crazy. the sludge you mention is metal particulates stuck to the plug but that's normal wear, they all have that even ones that go 300,000 miles without issue. if you got it for a good deal or lot (who got it unknown from an auction) then there are good chances the previous owner dumped the car because of the issue. do follow up and let us know how it goes. if you dump it with a blown trans, let me know the 99 SUS is one of my fav subarus.