idosubaru

behind dash on passengers side. i was never able to get to mine, they are unbelievably difficult to get out without major disassembly, i never actually saw or figured out how to get at it. there's a thread about it where i posted and posted and people commented and i couldn't get it out. still driving the car with flaky locks, it's just locked sometimes when i come to it eventhough i didn't lock it. they are known to fail and that's probably it. not sure how to test. mine randomly locks overnight.

fuel filter went in tank for later models. pull rear seat, couple bolts, a few bolts for access plate, disconnect a couple hoses and out comes the fuel pump assembly in about 15 - 20 minutes. unscrew the cap and the filter is inside. 60k replacement is pointless, but i understand the notion of following the manual, that's a good guide for sure and highly recommended as a one-size-fits-all approach. particularly with those goofy screw on caps prone to tabs cracking and leaving you stranded, i'd just assume not put them under any additional work/stress and change them at 100k.

having done gobs of these - the orings at the compressor are by far the most notorious - they are always hardened and in terrible condition. vibration/heat cycling. so far every other oring i've ever removed is supple and still in good condition and have never needed replacing. the smaller ones are also much harder to match up and the variety packs have sizes not that close to the smaller ones like the larger ones on the compressor which are easily matched up. stores don't sell the right size so you just have to match one up. i don't know that you're really gaining much by replacing known good orings that are aged but the right size with newer ones that are the wrong size. without disassembly and mic'ing there's no way to verify size. i tried compiling info but no one seems to know and i haven't had a micrometer to measure. all that to say - depending on circumstances and what's a good fit for you - it may actually be better to just leave them be. if you have Ollie's close by i picked up a bunch of cans of refrigerant for like $5.80 a bottle.

how many miles on the old one, want to sell it? with 2 H6's i'd love a back up.

"like it owed me money" LOL, awesome, glad you got it. tensioner can slap and sound incredibly similar to a knock.

what he said - i hardly use anything else any more as the codes are usually excellent. minimum 20% off, i think P20 is still a valid 20% off code. TRT41 is a 40% off code i recently used. turn rotors instead of replace? rockauto sometimes has really cheap brake pads. i do get pads from them sometimes. like LTexan just said, i avoid cheap pads. i wouldn't want the rockauto $6 pads. the cheap ones at advance auto parts like wearever silvers work fine they just last 10,000 miles sometimes.

interference engine and the fuel pump and relay don't matter, no one does that step. timing belt marks are for *** installation only***. once the motor turns over they no longer line up except every so many hundreds or thousands of revolutions. use them to install only, ignore them as soon as the engine turns over the first time. to install: 1. use the correct crank mark 2. line up the crank and cam marks don't even need the marks on the belts if you follow #1 and #2 above, they're just an aid and check. you probably used the wrong crank mark or a vacuum hose or sensor is disconnected. any check engine lights? did you pull the holder for the timing belt tensioner? if you turned the engine over with the wrong crank mark lined up - valves could be bent - but even then it'll usually run but poorly. if you didn't turn the engine over, which it sounds like you didn't, then there's no worries.

16" wheels will fit just fine. buy any Subaru wheels you like. larger wheels do accomodate larger brakes but that is unlikely to be an issue here.

that's no good. have you seen that before? i saw some "new and used" info about other parts but not those bolts in my 89 XT manual, guess i missed it.

it'll move it fine from A to B. the red flag to me is "20 times per year". flatland maybe i'd think about it. how sure are you of the 1,200 total load (battery, gas, trolling, gear, bait, water, people, 2 50 pound stripers)? i tow a lot of stuff, cars, trailers, and boats with Subarus, the largest is a boat with our H6 Outbacks..i've calculated it before but now i forget but it's at and probbaly over 2,000 pounds. it's too much but i do it once a year and some local trips a couple miles. no idea if it's related but my front diff started making noises towing it during our vacation earlier this year...and recently let loose so i need a new trans at 220k. it's one thing if it's 10 miles or once a year. 20 times a year, it's not flat, etc, risk increases. results will vary but more strain on the suspension, bushings, drivetrain, trans, front diff, fluids, cooling and braking systems. safety is a concern. that a vehicle tows great means little about how it handles in an emergency. sliding, car pulls out, slams on brakes, deer jumps in front, fishtailing...etc...the difference between max and half capacity will show itself. at 20 times per year, consistently towing makes it hard to assume that will never happen. i've had a heavy load push me after someone pulled out in front of me...i came a foot or two from plowing them but got lucky. depends how long you want to keep the car too. if you want another reliable 100,000 miles out of it then sounds like a bad idea. if it's a beater and you don't drive many miles or care how many miles it goes then less of a concern. all that said - it can do it, just be sure to not get lazy doing it 20 times a year and be vigillant.

stub axle bolt is 23-27 ft/lbs side retainer bolts are 6 - 8 ft/lbs did this job today and dug these up from the FSM after not seeing them posted here.

actually - if you can swap an engine you can fix a Subaru needing work and get a cheap EJ under 200k. keep looking, that will be easier than a swap no one has done before.

keep an EA trans sounds simplest. compare weights of the vehicles? different in a few ways but i put an EJ18 into a 96 legacy sedan and castrated it to FWD auto while i was at it. it drives fine (gutless) in flatland and by myself as i've been doing for years and many miles now. but living in the mountains, i can't run 205 55/16 tires, common on many subarus, the gearing kills it, with 4 passengers it can only hold 2nd gear up the steepest mountain grades. lol. you get tickets....gotta go 90 down the mountains to make up for the 45 going up

does the converter have 320k on it? plugs and wires are good? if Subaru's without EGR pass emissions...they aren't under less stringent thresholds right? so that might suggest it shouldn't matter if everything else is golden. if the midpipe gets swapped, sell it to me, i need a rust free one. lol

hover the cursor over the username and "send message" appears in the lower left of the small screen that pops up. or i think click on someone's name and it should give some options.

i've done it, use thick headgaskets or i believe the pistons can strike the heads. with thin headgaskets they won't strike the heads when assembled but will when running. may vary depending how much material has/will be taken off for resurfacing. forget which headgaskets i used but it may have simply been the 610 gaskets (last 3 digits of the Subaru part number for the DOHC heads). PCV is easy, i don't remember having any issue with it so just use the 99 hose if the 03 fitting doesn't look to swap, which i don't remember doing. it's just hoses, compared to a short block swap that's a drop in the bucket, you'll figure that out.

I don't think I've ever used a Subaru gasket for EA82/ER27 water pumps - are they any better? I already have 3 aftermarkets because that's what I've always used....

a failing knock sensor will retard the timing and hesitate, bad gas mileage, etc. whether yours is failing or not we can't say, you didn't even mention if the check engine light is on and if the knock sensor code was recorded. if it is, then it should help. if not then you likely need NGK spark plug and OEM or at least high quality spark plugs wires, and maybe spark plug gaskets if they're leaking (plugs will have oil on them). lol! i've used a ton of ebay sensors, thing is they are so easy to replace (one bolt) and so cheap who cares if you had to replace it one more time...though i've never seen that happen. if you're worried, keep the old one in the spare wheel well. with a DOHC EJ25 that knock sensor is way down the list of probable issues you'll have in the future.

mostly about time for me, don't have time to learn another platform. i'd like to learn others, but don't know that it would sway me to like them. i have a fantastic truck but don't like driving trucks, doubt i'd go that route. i'd likely change little except maybe newer Subaru, not wrecked or needing work, and lean towards the options, gadgets, and look/color i wanted.

right - sorry that's just the order of the driveline bits to keep the car driveable as long as possible while he works the kinks out. in other words so he doesn't try to install axles first and then have them hanging and undriveable because it takes a long time to get the diff installed... he will need the fuel tank, rear diff hanger,driveshaft, rear axles, rear knuckle assemblies to make it work and maybe the exhaust if that differs and if he wants added functionality he could install the AWD TCU (possibly one wire for Duty C if the car doesn't have it), FWD fuse holder if he wants that functionality, and instrument cluster if that differs

LSD

Simply replace the belt and you're fine on this engine. It's not until 1997 that Subaru ever had an interference engine where a broken timing belt causes damage. Something likely *caused* the belt to break though - an old idler out of grease probably. So it's best to get an ebay kit with all new timing pulleys (there are 4 of them). The kits on ebay for the timing belt, one toothed idler, 2 smooth idlers, and the smooth timing belt tensioner idler are sometimes only $80 for everything. That'st he way to go. Replacing just the belt is a recipe for doing this again in the near future.

you have a lot of options actually then if they're both auto's. you can literally bolt the AWD trans right up and get it to drive in a matter of minutes. 1. install just the 4WD without even plugging it in. you'll get 3rd gear only and still have reverse. it'll be "locked" in 4WD, so without the rear driveshaft connected you'll have FWD. you'll need to install the front half of the rear driveshaft since it seals the fluid in the trans, but it's only 2 bolts to do that, very simple. 2. install the 4WD and try to plug it in - the existing TCU may control it just fine. i've installed a FWD into an AWD and never swapped TCU's, it worked just fine. but that was a 96 into a 96...you may be crossing generations a bit so I'm not sure. my guess is it hardly matters since 4EAT's haven't changed much over time, but just a guess i don't even know if generations are the same where you are. FWD may not have the Duty C wiring in the harness, not sure, but that's basically the only difference between FWD and AWD auto trans, they are otehrwise nearly identical and that's why they're so interchangeable and mine was literally plug and play (no wiring or computer to mess with) to go from AWD to FWD. all that to say you could get the AWD transmission in place and working as a daily driver easily...almost no extra work really than a simple trans swap. and then work on the rest as you have time, while using it as a daily driver all along. you'll want to go in this order once the 4WD trans is in place: install the rear diff - since it can just sit there unused if needed. then install axles, then connected the driveshaft. once the trans is connected to the rear axles then you'll need to "unlock" the 4WD. you can just plug it in and let the computer do it like normal. or you can install one switch and splice into the one Duty C wire and turn it on and off as needed. of course running in 3rd gear all the time they don't have a ton of grunt, i've done it on 6 cylinder Subaru's that have some more grunt and they actually drive fine as a daily driver in the mountains. 4 cylinder would be a little slower on take off, being in 3rd, but picks up as you gain speed obviously.

those are EA82T symptoms and failures, not the EA82. covered most of that stuff and the circumstantial nature by which EA82's get slapped in my first reply. the block, heads, valve train don't have much of a weak point...besides horsepower. the HLA's can get tired...how old are they, what are they doing about those? CCR knows them well so they should have a good approach. they are prone to oil leaks, new oil seal materials are better, the oil lays in the seams due to the horizontal configuration, and Subaur's have twice the numbers of gaskets as many comparables - two heads, two valve trains. good luck!

one bolt is likely what i'll go with but if anyone else has this come up...weld it? offroad folks weld their opens diffsso likewise may be able to weld the bolt in place?