idosubaru

4,000 pounds, huge frontal area, likely to be loaded with passengers, gear, bikes, hitch, food. the extra grunt is worth it and 3.0's are excellent engines. they also have timing chains so no periodic maintenance needed. 3.0 issues: replace both serpentine belt pulley bearings - they fail *all the time* and should be considered periodic maintenance items. they are really easy - 20 minute job. they occasionally have TPS issues - the new ones from Subaru are an updated part number. again - easy, move a couple hoses and two screws hold it in place. 3.0 maintenance: the expensive stock spark plugs are excellent and generally in great condition even at their 100,000 mile replacement intervals new valve cover gaskets, oil cooler gasket are common oil leak areas. Looks like he figured out that you were looking at turbo specs but in the future - post a link to info that's confusing you and we'll help decipher it. or just ignore the info that says stuff that doesn't make sense when everything else says something different. normal internet protocol. with a conversion of this scope you should be well adept at wading through info and numbers! cars101 is maintained by a Subaru guy and has all the spec's, often even side by side like right here: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/outback/outback2004.html 2.5 165hp 166tq 3.0 212hp 210tq wikipedia is fairly useful for rough comparison of numbers too, there's a complete EJ page and EZ's on there too. or google them both - there's millions of hits. i'd be more concerned about the transmission. engine is an easy choice in my eyes. you want the power to get to the wheels reliably too. any of the engines you're talking about will bolt right up to older EJ FWD transmissions if that's what you're planning on using. In the US Subaru's haven't come with FWD transmissions since 1996 so you'll have to use an older FWD transmission. they were found in smaller vehicles with small 1.8 and 2.2 liter engines so while they are very reliable they probably aren't the beefiest devices ever made. a newer trans converted to FWD might be a better fit if it has beefier clutches and internals. really? i find them perfectly reliable for my uses.

i wouldn't even pay attention to that here. that looks mild. shouldn't be too hard to fix if you can find the right person. maybe call/stop in at some tow companies or scrap yards. they tend to know a lot of local businesses...and side jokers too. ask people you know, or start another thread "NJ Rust repair -any leads?" or something like that. friend just got an engine installed for cheap asking around. found a guy that tosses engines in for people here and there for reasonable prices, at his house i presume. largest tow company around was familiar with him and said he's great.

now you can delay your next brake fluid bleeding. lol!

i have just disconnected that droppping resistor - passengers side strut tower i believe to firm up shifts.

run FWD or RWD all day long, i've done it a bunch of times. just don't be dumb and these systems are rather robust.

finding someone willing/capable of welding that without charging high prices might be tough.

pic is grainy but that doesn't look bad at all for a daily driver...i mean, for you know northeast rust machines. without seeing the rest of it i'd still call that good for another decade or more, but i can't see the full extent, subframes, etc. if it's just localized to one spot like that, or just the lower parts of the frame rail in certain spots...not a big deal. if the entire frame rail top to bottom is flaking...that's bad. can't tell from the pic where it fits in that spectrum.

"rattle" - did the mechanic diagnose that? i'd be checking the timing belt tensioner. that has the new-style tensioner which is prone to failure. they can start slapping and generally not holding tension on the belt. i could envision that temporarily affecting timing and possibly being related to a P0420 code that's on the verge of tripping. it would be noticed under the a/c compressor, behind the timing belt cover, generally they make noise more under load - accelerating. a mechanics stethoscope on the timing cover can help. Subaru converters last the life of the vehicle, they do not fail, something causes them to fail - poor running, major engine catastrophe, etc. Sure reuse your sensors, you'll get a code if they're really bad. or terrible gas mileage. if they're original they should be replaced, they're generally lazy well before 200,000. Impossible to say if you'll encounter problems with a given converter. It's unlikely, but possible. Subaru converters generally have more of the expensive materials in them, that's why they cost more, so they're more robust. Aftermarkets are cheaper, lesser expensive materials, with the idea they aren't likely to be used nearly as long as an original. Usually doesn't matter, but it may depending how egregious the causes/P0420 issue was/is. Knowing how the mechanic diagnosed a bad converter and if he identified a root cause of why it failed would be helpful to know. If the root cause is never identified then an aftermarket is going to be damaged quicker than a Subaru OEM.....will still take awhile though, but it's highly variable. It would also be helpful to know the conditon of the vehicle/engine which you didn't answer the last time I asked. Plugs, wires, PCV valve, air filter. MMO & Seafoam through the intake, gas, and/or oil has gotten rid of the P0420 code before, I would try it. It takes minutes and $5.

EJ25 = 14% more displacement, 16% more power, 12% more torque. peak torque: EJ22 149 @3,600 EJ251 167 @ 4,000 EJ253 167 @ 4,400 the graph above shows a maximum torque drop over a span of 400 rpms (the rpm difference in max torque readings between 2.2 and 2.5) of 8 ft/lbs (and that's in the exaggerated high rpm area well over 5,000 rpm's). or only 2 ft/lb in the 4,000 rpm range. extrapolating that data, if it's accurate - the 251 would have to loose 20 ft/lb torque from 4,000 down to 3,600 rpm's to equal the Ej22...seems unlikely?

the P0420 code is a debacle. it's not necessarily the converter that needs replaced, usually it's not. converters typically last the life of the vehicle easily. mechanics/shops often throw converters at this code obsessively because it's the easiest solution to what is a very tricky code to diagnose. here's a mechanic who is very familiar with Subaru's that describes it and proper diagnosis for this code: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/49537-p0420-diagnosis.html problem is few mechanics know how to do what he does or how to do it quickly and efficiently. i'd first install a $5 spacer to get rid of the code. they're all over ebay, i have a few on hand because the problem is common across all vehicles. if something caused the converter to fail, it'll eventually cause the new one to fail. some steps: 1. repair any exhaust leaks first. 2. get the engine in excellent running condition. spark plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter, run some seafoam and/or MMO through the intake, gas, oil. rattles are usually benign and meaningless heat shields. though they could possibly change temperature gradient and affect P0420 code triggering as I think GD said.

the metal cube tool at a auto parts store is mighty handy for this job. can be turned with other things but if they're tight it's grueling and seems to take a decade.

www.car-parts.com search by zipcode - he'll get the closest yards that have a subaru. subaru says 1995 - 1997 are the same fuel pump but i bet there's a much wider range of pumps that interchange. if you need to start a thread titled "what fuel pumps interchange with 98 OBW" in generally he could wire up any pump to limp home. use those wire taps - that bite into the wire rather than splicing/cutting.

start by disconnecting all the switches at each door? has there ever been any water intrusion? window/door left open/broken?

excellent. found a used one, fixed and 400 miles to the good.

that's crazy. at least it's done. i'd like to know if that diff was out of oil. the never fail and are super easy to replace, used is the way to go here.

i'd just buy a used color matched rear hatch too. www.car-parts.com 95-99 OBW's should interchange - is there a difference between "stepped roofs"....? even wagons may be the same, probably interchangeable but paint/trim may not be the same. you can always swap interior trim to match. the wiring is tucked up in the car, pull it all out and ideally cut it on the body side so you have the connector obviously to plug into yours. if it has a squirter on the back there will be an associated hose too. don't forget to swap out your key cylinders to match your key

nice! you tried it? what MPFI on what engine? i think it needs to be an SPFI injector? my understanding is an MPFI can't handle it.

If it were me I'd get an EJ25 short block only and bolt your EJ22 heads to it (or buy new/other ones if those are toast). then you can use the EJ25turbo headgasket - those never fail like the non-turbo gaskets do. that's the best gasket to use on EJ25's...so if you're using an EJ25 block you'll need EJ25 headgaskets so i assume you can use them on an EJ25 block/EJ22 heads combo. GLoyale had a place in Oregon building $600 EJ25 short blocks. that avoids the issues i'm about to mention (which are all rather simple), better end product with you choosing the headgasket, and probably cheaper. EJ22 is single port exhaust , EJ25 is dual port exhaust so you'll need an EJ25 exhaust manifold. it bolts right up to the existing exhaust system just fine. intake manifolds swap for Phase II's (and phase II's ONLY for future readers that will say they're confused LOL) there are two different timing trigger mark set up around 99-01-ish era. you can look and check, or just swap the EJ22 crank and drivers side cam sprocket onto the EJ25 to be sure. what headgaskets are installed on the rebuilt engine?

great - EJ20 is a much better motor than we got. no headgasket issues. replace the PCV with a Subaru one. cleaning isn't typically that effective on these.

the PCV valve is a couple bucks and takes about 14 minutes to replace, really easy. that will at least reduce pressures inside the engine and if you're lucky slow down the oil burning. as mentioned it's a sign of burning oil. i'd keep a track of oil consumption and see how much you're loosing. it might be a small amount or could be a lot. fill it up and keep checking every so often. see how much you loose by 1,000 miles and let us know (check sooner just in case it's loosing a lot though). did the car sit for a long time? you might get lucky and a new PCV valve and just freeing up some stuck rings might slow the bleeding? valve stems seals are likely. if you end up wanting to repair it - installing an Ej22 would likely be cheaper and less problematic than that engine. that's one of Subaru's worst engines they've ever made, mostly due to the random overheating natures of the headgaskets when they fail. it's not bad but it's kind of a gamble after 15 years and it's track record. if you know the previous owner and maintenance history that's extermelly helpful. you can usually get an EJ22 for cheap and sell the Ej25 for more than you pay for the EJ22 which can be a direct plug and play bolt in swap if you get the right one. last year i picked up an EJ22 for $250 for a friend - all new timing gear etc for $150 in parts so he was in it $400 - his old motor, the same that's in your 98 forester will sell for $500 - $1,000.

thanks. it was hard to find info on since the front rear transverse bushings always come up in a search. why don't you get them from Subaru? so i can come back to it later the Subaru part number is: 20254AE03A it's about $28

Other side looks normal. I can get a pic later, but it's fairly simple the rubber bushing is sticking out of the housing it's pressed into about 1/2 inch. From what I can see the bushing is intact but now that we're talking about it I wonder if it's broken or would fall apart when removed? Hopefully it's replaceable because I don't want to fight all those rusty bolts to get that entire rear housing off the vehicle. It's not terribly rusty but I'm sure every bolt will be like facing a hungry Mike Tyson. 220,000 miles with a few thousands miles of towing a boat in the mountains i shouldn't be towing so the rear suspension has seen some use.

i don't do turbo motors, but have you seen the SPFI set ups? a simple way to do forced induction on Subaru's is to install an SPFI injector in the intake manifold just past the throttle body. the idea is to keep stock FI so that's simple and requires no wiring work, but add more fuel as boost kicks in with a dedicated injector. i think it's controlled with a rising rate Fuel Pressure Regulator that increases as boost increases, or something like that. it's simple and parts can be had at yards for pocket change. and you can probably spif it up if you want to. if the EJ22 intake manifold bolts up to the EJ205 heads, or the EJ22 intake wiring can be fitted to the EJ205 intake manifold, then you simply retain your stock EJ22 control (which is the singular coil pack you want) and add an injector with simple controller (RRFPR - rising rate fuel pressure regulator) or there's probably other options too. a $200 EJ205 sounds scary if money is an issue, but hopefully you knew the person, got lucky, or stole it, LOL j/k

Sure thing, tear up the new one.

2002 OBW H6 The rear arm front bushing (#13 in the picture) is coming out - away from the vehicle. A solid 1/2" of the rubber sticks out past the housing for about 180 degrees of the circumference, the rest isn't pushed out as far. The bushing itself appears fine visually - no cracking or failure. Unbolting it and pressing it back in would just mean is slides back out again? If I can get a new bushing - can it be pressed in while on the vehicle? bolts and washers or i have a FWD wheel bearing set? This arm is a part of the entire rear knuckle housing with bearings, etc so swapping it (in the rust belt) is a last resort.