idosubaru

excellent call, thanks Dave! Sedan is 3" shorter than the wagon - went to opposedforces and the mid pipes are the same, mufflers different. I may test fit the muffler since it's better but only the flange on the mid pipe had serious rot and failed so i can use the Sedan muffler if i have too.

www.car-parts.com parts wanted forum here

good to know about ghostwalking: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/30747-2005-2009-ghostwalking-abnormal-winter-handling-fixes.html and the shakes, which I think are 2010 only issues but i'd make sure: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/108-steering-wheel-shake-issues/ headgaskets are still an issue until 2009. the symptoms vary a tiny bit from the 2002 era, but are still very similar, mostly the same for our purposes. external leaks, oil or coolant in the same area underneath. look at the head mating surface and they're either wet/leaking or not. no surprises (like the older Phase I DOHC EJ25 which is terribly hard to diagnose or inspect). EJ25 Turbo headgaskets don't leak and can work on those engines (and your old 2002). if you don't get those you still get the same prone to leak headgasket it came with (unless somethings changed recently). 2005's have an ECU/Catalytic converter reprogramming TSB or fix - check into that, if you need it or it's a TSB or whatever. I think P0420 codes are one symptom of that particular issue/year.

will an 02 H6 Outback wagon exhaust fit on an 03 H6 Sedan?

friend of mine had a weak brake line i couldn't track down either. checked it out, nothing, no wetness....she drove it around...still couldn't track the problem down. replaced her master cylinder due to no seen fluid loss anywhere. eventually got really bad and ended up leaking enough that i saw it finally dripping down around the top of the gas tank. pulled the rear seat and got to it through the passengers side access hole i believe. but prior to that there was no sign of fluid. the seats are like two bolts, really easy to get to actually, like 15 minutes to pull that plate off. ***doesn't sound like your issue though...you said "every three months"....that sounds really long to keep going on. hers happened over a matter of weeks, couple months tops. like you say, seems like you'd see fluid somewhere? not saying that's your issue - but MC and PB failure is so rare i'd want to diagnose it too as you said.

what an honest seller - he did warn about the rust in the add: LOL!!!! if you want a daily driver and drive 50,000 miles per year then leave it as is. that under stuff is annoying but not generally a big deal for an average daily driver. if you want a 20 year gem its not worth getting into, if your goal is that lofty they're not that hard to find without rust. not an easy rust repair, i'd consider nearly impossible to be done right/well without some massive attention. it's an all or nothing deal it sounds like, rust tucked down in all those body folds, seams, welds...is not an easy repair to do right. and without doing it right it's coming back. then again i can't see the rust. odd there's no body panel rust. usually the lower front fender behind the wheel, lower door seams, rear quarter at about 10 oclock have rust if it's that bad. looks like a great daily commuter.

what he said - probably cam seals. we generally replace those when replacing a timing belt. timing belts are easy to replace and you've already done it so it's only one more bolt and a few minutes to replace the cam seals. best to replace both cam seals, crank seal, and cam oring(s) as well while you're in there.

passengers side? hardly matters. fairly simple - get the carpeting pulled out to dry. start under dash - there are some very simple plastic rivets there. they pop out and back in - have a slender-ish flat screwdriver handy to pry up. only 1980's stuff breaks because it's aged and brittle, you should be fine. i did a 2009 recently, easy. hopefully you just have to pull that front carpet up...but... if it's/she is really that bad you might have to pull the seat and that corresponding carpet up. which is generally easy...4 bolts hold the car to the vehicle - then there's the seat belt to disconnect and if it has side impact air bags the yellow connector will require going to Houdini's school of magic the first time you see it. it's just a pull apart connector but it's crazy how dumb and non-intuitive they are. once you decide what you're up for in terms of carpet/seats: pull it up and let it dry in the full sun with the windows cracked to let out hot/humid air (unless it's going to rain LOL), put a fan and/or dehumidifier (only if getting in sun, having dry days is an issue) in there. moving air is your friend. DANGER on this step - do not do this step, i don't recommend it because i don't want to be responsible for accidents. once it's finally dry if you have mold/mildew smell you'll need to rent an ozone generator. tool rental places, that rent equipment, backhoes, mowers, etc, will have them. rent one and run it in the vehicle a few hours. i run them over night if it's really bad - smoke, etc and overnight is enough. a couple hours should work for you. DANGER - pay attention, keep doors locked so no kid crawls in....don't get in it without airing it out first, etc - in that confined space it would be toxic. that will destroy the organic mildew/mold and associated odors.

that's a pretty sweet ending...er uh...continuation from where kosta started. well done folks!

that's highly variable and depends a lot on you (how you're going to sell it, how much you ask, condition, etc), state regulations (will the person have to have it inspected immediately?), and local buyers, neither of which we can comment on. fall and tax return season are good times to sell, you have that going for you right now. in general - of course it matters. the same reason ($) you don't want to pay to have it done or do it - is the same reason most buyers will move on, hesitate, or negotiate more. if you're trying to get top dollar - then it's going to matter. people paying top dollar don't wanna dork around. a busy doctor doesn't want to juggle a car - they wanna buy and drive. if you're just trying to move it and asking an average or lower end price for your area - it may not matter....depending on the general Subaru market, state inspections, etc. friends bought a car last year - paid pretty decent cash for it (nice, low mileage, H6)...but it had a broken boot. i told them i'd fix it for them for free. i wouldn't consider that normal but if there's a mechanically inclined person involved a $25 part isn't going to scare them. it'll make most people think though...and it's a $200 repair for the average person. you'll definitely loose a certain percent of buyers, but that may not affect price. so again..highly variable and may or may not matter depending on a lot of variables.

roll pins not coming out, i've never seen that. get a good punch and wail it. the stubs i've seen all sorts of problems. i've also not only mushroomed the ends enough they needed grinding but i've seen the first thread or two actually be "compressed" enough from the bashing that the nut would not engage and they weren't reusable...well maybe you could clean the threads up but my tap and die set doesn't go that large. but you're not in the rust belt so probably means you won't have it that bad.

what symptoms do you have that require it? they generally last the life of the car unless they have like 200,000+ miles and/or have been abused. if they're simply ticking then the most likely culprit or solution is the oil pump: 1. reseal the oil pump 2. replace the oil pump with a new one *sometime if you're short on time and don't want to do the job twice it's simplest to just jump to #2 for more info: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/136547-ea82-er27-ticking-tod-hydraulic-valve-lash-hla-noise-diagnose-and-repair/ if you still want to play with them you can: 1. rebuild them youself - disassemble, clean, reassemble. the top retainers are old, brittle, and prone to crack when prying/removing so tread carefully. i've done it but consider it a waste of time when you can do this: 2. buy them for like $5 http://www.mizpahprecision.com/pricing.htm

seen this before on subaru's? they don't have enough room to squeeze them back in place now - so i guess they stuck right at start up, then freed up as i was running/trying to restart? just headgaskets i think 3 of them. when assembly i greased them and made sure they were on before continuing. non-interference and everything looks normal other than the arms slipping out. thanks for the feedback that you've seen it before, that's slightly comforting.

130,000 miles, automatic, XT6 - couple (2 or 3) rocker arms on the drivers side fell off after running the first time for a few minutes. it ran fine before the headgasket job. were they simply not pumped up or is something else wrong? i guess i'll install new HLA's in those positions that fell off - should i pay attention to or do anything else while I'm in there? i never prime them, never seemed to make a difference - i've always started and let the oil pump prime them. could that be to blame?

Fel Pro headgaskets are great, no need to retorque them like Subaru and other gaskets. I prefer seals from Subaru or Beck Arnley, i've had EA82 Fel Pro crank seals not fit properly, but I've used them plenty of times with success before too so you'll see plenty of people with success stories. In general...i don't know about swapping...but Subaru intake and exhaust manifold gaskets are often much higher quality than aftermarkets. The aftermarket intake gaskets are particularly flimsy often times.

exhaust heat shields if it's making the noise at a certain speed and you shift into neutral and maintain the same speed does the noise stay present?

the axles are difficult to disconnect from the outer joint, i had to work mine hard to get them to separate in order to convert mine from 4WD to 2WD and install those CV's back into the hub assembly. it's been awhile since i did it but almost positive it wouldn't have bee reusable. someone on here may know how to do that properly and easily, i do not. maybe you could find a set of rear EJ axles and disassemble them for those parts you need. someone on here may even have them, folks that have a parts car don't care about them, i always throw them away because there's no demand.

that's early but they have the word outliers for a reason. hopefully and probably just a fluke.

****** Was diff low on oil? ****** Has the diff fluid ever been changed? *** How many miles? what he said - "rear diff failure" 99% of the time means misdiagnosis, so be careful. but no fault of someone being wrong, folks used to trucks or RWD or american stuff that fails more often wouldn't know how robust subaru rear diffs are. two scenarios: 1. "suspicion often creates what it suspects" (c.s. lewis) they assumed rear diff and the otherwise normal material on the diff drain plug made them think they were right. 2. they really saw huge chunks and it's bad. i favor them being right based on your description of it being violent and the word "chunks" - that is never a good word. I'm hesitant though because...besides rear diffs never failing...diff gears usually make a noise and don't "come and go", they typically get worse quickly. but this is a rear diff, not a front so the stresses may be a bit lower than the front and that's cushioning that some. the good news is that since these rear diffs never fail there is no demand and prices are, or should be, miniscule to replace with a used one. when parting out cars they're not even worth keeping, there's simply no demand. and they're relatively easy to replace. 4 12mm driveshaft bolts and like 3 bolts hold it in place, drop, disconnect axles and done. www.car-parts.com make sure you match the final drive ratio of the transmission or you'll have serious issues. normally yours has a 4.44 final drive (like all OBW automatics) but i do recall some weirdness around 2002 GT's...can't recall if it's with manuals or automatics but they changed final drive ratios at one point around that time. if it is 4.44 i even have one of those lying around from when i converted mine to FWD.

A flashlight and long magnetic pickup tool. Those magnetic pick up tools are worth their weight in gold, i'd just put the money towards one of those and you'll be all the better for it. very handy tool to have. this kind is awesome: http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?partnumber=66500LISLE&utm_source=google&utm_medium=nonpaid&utm_campaign=froogleACC&utm_term=66500LISLE&gclid=CLrlteHw37gCFcue4AodcUUAkw i have one of these and they suck: http://www.toolplanet.com/product/MAGNETIC-PICK-UP-TOOL-BT004779?vfsku=BT004779&gpla=pla&gclid=CNXw_-3w37gCFcue4AodcUUAkw If you need to replace the bolt, just get a bolt at the hardware store. that's a generic metric bolt. You need to match the: Thread type which is M8x1.25 (where M8 is the diameter of the shank and 1.25 is the thread pitch). except for a few very small M6 and obscure bolts all Subaru thread pitches are 1.25. so you just need to know the diameter. And make sure it's long enough. Take the old sensor with you or measure it and get a bolt a half inch longer or one inch longer. A couple washers wouldn't be a bad idea to take up any extra slack if it's too long. The original head is 12mm but the replacement doesn't have to be the same head size as long as the threads are M8x1.25 Some auto parts stores even have charts like "If your head size was XYZ then the bolt size is ABC"...kind of thing. So knowing you used a 12mm socket could identify the diameter on a Subaru....but i'd consider that an emergency or last resort.

yes - those covers are exactly what i mean. if those don't show signs of melting then that's a good sign. can't say %100 but a good sign. i advised a friend not to use an EJ22 with melted covers a few years ago and it had rod knock shortly after installing it. many of the larger yards give warranties as well, the one i bought had a warranty. though an EJ22 from a wrecked car hardly needs one. they're so robust if it was running at the time of wreck it's good for another 100k when i'm done with new timing belts and seals. bare minimum you'd need headgaskets and intake manifold gaskets which would be roughly $100 in parts.

you just asked if you can get a shop to fix your car? maybe it's 1am and i need to go to bed, but thats funny. if something breaks on a car, yes you can pay a shop to fix it. some places install customer supplied parts, some do not, and some say they will but dislike it.

driveshafts fail so rarely and are so easy to replace that i'd never buy new, complete waste of time. on a car that new particularly, a used shaft should be in excellent condition. all of the yards ship - find one on car-parts.com and have it shipped. phone call and then it's at my door step, no driving, waiting, lines.

clogged radiator? radiatorbarn.com has great prices if you need a new one. $89 shipped to my door last one i got. the head gaskets on that engine are insanely easy to replace. the other EJ engine in 1996 is a complete pain to replace, so he may think it's one of those. i'd look to see if any of the timing covers are melted. that would indicate significant overheating and you might want to move on from that engine anyway. overheats compromise oil and eventually rod bearings. $500 is steep for an EJ22, check out www.car-parts.com for better prices. $500 might tempt me to yank the EJ25 in one of my running vehicles i have on hand. lol

the solenoid should get power with the FWD fuse in....but you may need to be driving it for the TCU to do that? zero power to the Duty C = fully locked/torque bind. it needs power to control the clutch pack, but i'm not sure the voltage you're seeing is what is actually happening depending how the controller operates. Duty C failing can also cause torque bind that won't go away with FWD fuse installed.