idosubaru

thanks JCE, yes the Phase I stuff all interchanges with different volumes. I think the only oil pan i have on hand is a Phase II EJ22...so i'll see if that works before i source something else.

Have a rusted 1995 EJ22 oil pan. Have a 1999 EJ22 Phase II engine - can i use the oil pan off of it for the 1995?

Import Experts on Ebay - they have the best prices on decent quality. some of the cheaper kits on ebay seem less robust, having installed multiple sets from various suppliers. They will also allow you to contact them and add or take out any parts you want and essentially create your own kit. While you're in there around the timing belt, for a reliable 100,000 miles you'll want to: replace timing belt, pulleys, and tensioner reseal the oil pump (one oring from Subaru and anaerobic or appropriate RTV sealant around the pump case) replace crank seal and 2 cam seals replace the water pump - use a Subaru water pump gasket - the aftermarkets are cheap cardboard junk and prone to leak replace the thermostat - use Subaru or XACTA from Stant, the others are visually inferior. If it has a plastic rear separator plate you'll want to replace that and probably reseal the existing one if it's metal. They crack/leak and it's easily done with the engine out for a clutch job. Rear main seal issues in Subaru's are nearly bullet proof and never leak so make your own call on that. Just be sure to install it exactly right and use a Subaru or Subaru quality seal - they are less forgiving than any other seal on unclean installs.

those engines codes are odd.....can you clarify. like he said, you can bolt the 2000 heads to an earlier EJ25 block, but use thick headgaskets - like the 610 headgaskets for the EJ25D block. i've done it before. i'm not sure if it would work, i haven't calculated it out - but if you can use EJ25 Turbo headgaskets, those are much better as they don't fail like nonturbo EJ25 headagskets...but i don't think anyone has ever installed them on an EJ25D block before.

i know this is a car forum and not a life choices or financial forum....but make it reliable first so it lasts a long time, so it's reliable and you're not dumping money you don't have or skipping repairs or needing to buy another "cheapest car you can find" next year. okay now that i'm done sounding like an annoying parent.... a 1996 Outback manual transmission is the unicorn of outbacks. it is the only Outback that has an EJ22 (not even automatics in 1996 got it), one of the best engines Subaru ever made for inexpensive reliability. fantastic motor. the EJ25 2.5 liter of the same year is a headgasket and rod bearing eating hog - you are MOST fortunate you didn't find one of those cheap. they're generally really easy to find cheap...and then you'll find you have very bad motor problems in a year or week. anyway - you'd be best served to value that engine for what it is than make it something it is not...but too each his own so more specifically to your question: there's not much gain to be had. the car will always be slow and perform like a Subaru wagon. 10 hp is miniscule to me and to get that or more takes a lot of work. all the improvements are nearly imperceptible, it generally ends up like this after a mod: "i think it's a little faster...or am i just driving it harder or does it sound better?" unless of course you're ready to spend a LOT of work and money.....engine swaps, custom work, thousands on turbo's, etc, $$$. if you still want to do mods and play with it - the good news is that since none of it really matters, you can do whatever you want. you want sound - start there. you want looks - start there. you want feel - start there. you want a stiffer ride - start there. you want audio - start there. you want a trimmed engine bay - start there. it's mostly novelty so start with what you like the most.

describe it a little better with specific details - remember we can't see or do anything, we just have your words and can't fill in the blanks ourselves. was the fuel filter ever replaced? there's no mention of that but if the tank was rusty then it seems plausible the filter is sub-par. though i've never seen a Subaru have starting or driving issues due to a filter so i'm just guessing based on the "rust in the fuel tank" description. if you let it sit all night and encounter a non-start episode - what exactly does it do and how long/what's it like trying to start it? does it turn over but doesn't fire? does it turn slowly or strongly when it doesn't start? will it start after trying 10 times...1 time....never....have to try again in an hour....how do you finally get it started if it won't at first? if we know exactly what it's doing that might help narrow it down. nonetheless one possibility is that the fuel pressure is loosing pressure over night and bleeding off through the lines and the vehicle has to prime the entire system every time it sits for an extended period. fuel injector seals and Fuel Pressure Regulator need to be tested or inspected. both are cheap and easy to repair. be best to have someone familiar with Subarus, but that's hard to find in some areas, i've never seen a subaru specialty shop in maryland (where I'm from), but i have in WV and GA (of all places). a 1995 impreza is an amazing platform for inexpensive reliability. if you don't overheat or run low on oil they'll essentially last as long as you care to maintain them. and if you're good with Subaru maintenance (timing belts, fluids), they'll be very reliable for 300,000 miles. get a timing belt kit off ebay with all new pulleys/tensioner next time you have it done. if i were still in maryland i'd offer to do it for you, i'm from there and used to work in Greenbelt. previous mechanic was mis-diagnosing, but we've all done that before. this is not a common Subaru issue.

and sorry if i steered you wrong on improper parts interchange, but glad it's hopefully working out.

couldn't drill out the ABS hole bigger for the forester sensor to slide in place? it works without any ABS light right? that's awesome and that's all that matters, it's seeing the info it needs and it's all within spec if so.

if it's like the old gen stuff that urethane is INSANE. you will not simply cut through it very easily. if there's a tool of any kind, i'd get it.

that looks like what you want. those are outback parts. you can put the search numbers in google or Amazon to cross reference. the KYB GR2's (or EXCEL - they changed names recently - same strut) are what most people use on Outbacks. are you wanting a lift? Scott and others here sell 2" lift kits. you could get the lift which is simply strut top extensions, without springs, struts due to loosing clearance, and maybe cheaper shipping?

there are a few audio threads and upgrades by members (nearly all of which are members here too) on a Subaru XT specific forum, subaruxt.com, check that out. it's just like any other sound upgrade - replace speakers, install wiring, install head unit. they have shared ground wiring of some sort so best (and easy anyway) to just run new wire. the only thing about the XT is the oddly shaped space for the unit and folks have done a few different methods for filling that in if you're interested in making it flush and stock-ish looking.

*** repair the issues (we can help) and have it inspected somewhere else. start a thread here for each issue like "MAF sensor check engine light XYZ01" and post the actual code from the computer (not what someone tells you it is, give the numbers). never mention an engine swap, there's no point. there's probably 10,000 federal laws/restrictions broken by people on this forum. emissions equipment, engine swaps, light intensity, safety items, disabling of ABS, custom exhaust (you can buy on ebay), O2 delete and bypass (also availlable on ebay), "test pipes", "off road only" lights and equipment, SRS delete..and on and on. i'm scared, the FED is no doubt going to shut down every auto forum for their rampant promotion of federal violations. the car should be simply repaired first - if it has a check engine light then don't get it inspected until that's fixed. a "communication error" means the swap wasn't done properly or something else is wrong....that's not normal nor an artifact of the swap...maybe incorrect/improper work during the swap, but not because of it. this one might be tough as it's nearly unheard of and not something that typically happens....will be hard to track. but i'd start a thread and give some details into what engine was swapped, who did it, etc. the P0420 code (the cat converter code no doubt) does not require replacing the converter. but you'll need to listen to help from here because you won't find a competent mechanic to diagnosis...other than simply covering it up with a new conveter $$$$ . same with MAF code - it simply needs repaired.

best bet is to read the code, otherwise there's nothing to go on. just above the gas pedal is a connector, ground one of the pins in it and the ABS light will flash the code for you. a google search will show pictures of the connector and which pin to ground with the also connected grounding pin taped into the wiring harness.

if there are any ABS faults the system simply sets the ABS light and results to normal braking, it is as if the ABS isn't there, brakes work as normal. as long as the tooth counts on the tone ring are the same you're golden. sounds like they are given you got no ABS light. i would have tried to sleeve/space the original sensor in the larger space but if you got no check engine light then awesome, that was the easier solution.

ah crack. that's weird. go back and grab a bolt to check/see/use?

ditch the hydraulic clutch and convert it to cable clutch, it's really simple and easily done with the engine out. you can swap the bit right on the transmission case with the engine out - simple remove the hydrauilc stuff and bolt/swap the cable stuff/fork in place. the cable versions are more reliable (they rarely, if ever break) and drivable even if the cable brakes. hyrdaulic clutches have slave cylinder and hose failures, are annoying to bleed, and undrivable depending how they fail - i have no need for imperceptible performance improvements at the cost of reliability, maintenance, and possibility of being stranded. and yes - pull that pump and do it while the engine is out. then get the pump to miles, he needs one. pretty sure my friends 1997 Legacy L wagon was a non-ABS model, getting all the front lines sounds simplest rather than splicing and such, but shouldn't be too tricky if you can figure out which lines go where. or go to a junk yard and take pics of the routing for a non-ABS model...find it online, have someone post it for you...all of mine have ABS so i can't help. www.car-parts.com to find suitable donors close to you. if they have the master cylinder or other non-ABS brake parts then they probably have all the lines you want.

yeah, for me it's like one out of 10 or so are bizarre tight..it's like something causes it, they're not just a little tighter, they are way over the top. one was one that i previously installed before and i certainly didn't torque it to 1,000 ft/lbs??

great, thanks dave - i've bypassed the throttle body lines before in other soobs with zero effects so i'm totally fine doing it here too. ridiculous of course but fewer failures points - 4 less clamps/connections, 2 less hoses. copper, copy does sound like a bad idea, i'll find some steel, probably have something already in my garage with all the engines lying around.

did you have to drill out a bunch of bolts - i've always wondered how it's even replaceable - rust is so bad around here i can't imagine what i'd do with every bolt shearing off. did you check with Subaru on recall/replacement part? they can search the VIN but you know all that..

yes use the wheel/tire stuff that came with the car. for just the pads: 14mm (some are 12mm?) socket wrench and a c-clamp that's it. i'd have a hammer handy too and long pipe in case the bolts are tight or hit the socket with a hammer (lazy man's impact wrench). it's very easy. not only is it $130...that's often a base rate which may escalate from there when they end up doing something else...rotors, clips, boots, rust... once the wheel is off - you only have to remove two bolts (only one on some subarus) to replace the pads. the caliper bolts are 12 or 14mm - looks like miles said 14mm. ideally a 6 point socket wrench and a long handle or pipe for leverage in case it's tight. you sound inexperienced in which case i'd recommend a c-clamp to push the piston back in rather than other methods. remove those two bolts pull caliper up - sometimes need a hammer to persuade it upwards off the rotor swap out pads compress piston with c-clamp reinstall www.rockauto.com has awesome pad prices. advance auto parts you can usually get a minimum 20% off coupon code online - P20 is one that worked for a long time, it may still and is 20% off. enter the number when you check out online and pick it up at a local store you select also online.

another reason i avoided fixing it that way for the past year or two. i may try some of my own pipe, i have some closely sides copper tubing that will probably work....just that back side i think has a second nipple/Y at the end for a smaller pipe, will see about that.

"lifetime warranty" can mean lower quality. they crank out high volume of low quality stuff with bear minimum investment into checking, rebuilding, parts, labor, etc. often going into older cars that won't last long or stay in the same hands. the offroad guys with trucks know this - they get alternators in water/mud and buy lifetime alternators or starters - they're low quality and tend to fail often - but they don't care since they're submerging and abusing them anyway, replacements are free, and they're relatively inexpensive. it's entirely a business model for companies and no indication of quality. if you have premium on your time, then don't get them. if you don't care to replace them they may be a good fit. and yet for about the same price you can avoid any replacement...so seems odd to me that anyone wouldn't do the 100% solution but to each his own and if one has already bought them or doesn't yet know the strong correlation with aftermarket axles then have to work with what you got.

i've had anti seized parts still be seized in under a year, that stuff isnt' all that great. better than nothing i'm sure but i've had ball joints still seized in the knuckle in short order. at some point i wanted to start another thread about that and see what folks are doing to prevent seized bolts/ball joints, slides, etc. and see if anyone else has had antiseize not really fair that well all the time. it does good and all but i've had a few times where it seemed lacking. those early 00-04's had rear subframe rust issues with a recall of some sort - Subaru has paid for the replacement before...a couple of folks have had those paid for/repaired in just the last year or two, might want to call Subaru.

good call. off it will be shortly then...don't forget appropriate pipe.

didn't notice noise yesterday after i drained the front diff gear oil to proper level - it was over filled. maybe coincidence (it was raining, had A/C on so it was naturally louder anyway) or maybe too full can generate some noise?