idosubaru

are you sure the clutch is bad, that's rare? the diagnosis is suspect - odd for there to be three significant issues at once - clutch, relay, and low pressure. i have replaced a clutch before but not on a Subaru...never seen one fail yet. i feel like i've seen a thread on legacy central or legacy GT forum or something regarding swapping the clutch. and i've seen a thread i think also about the A/C clutch bearing too - replacing those, which might require removing the clutch? might want to look for one of those. if you read through my DIY thread you can see how simple it is to recharge the system and no need to pull a vaccuum or worry about recharging. if you swap compressors and put two cans in it, it'll be fine for the life of the vehicle, i do it all the time.

replace it, but it's not a big deal if you need to leave it, i've seen a ton with chunks missing. i've left them in my xt6's for very long periods of time, no big deal.

Ha ha, definitely do not listen to or buy any of their "services". Service department has a very large marketing and sales component to it, so tread carefully unless you don't mind paying for more than you need. Asking here first is a great idea. Read the owners manual service requirements and ask here. You don't really need anything but oil and air filters until 30k or more. Never pay for a "30,000 mile service"....always pay for exactly what you need like "Oil change and air filter". The "service" packages are fattened products driven by marketing and sales.

unsure which/if any of the kits have Japanese pulleys/bearings. if the EJ22 is a complete known good engine - i'd run it as is and not mess with headgaskets. in this case (not true of older Ej22/EJ25 engines) you can bolt the 2003 Ej25 intake manifold right up to the 1999 EJ22 engine. you'll need a single port EJ22 exhaust manifold as those are single, not double port like the EJ25's.

LOL so if ***engine temps are too high*** then removing this heat generated by the transmission will reduce engine temps? i'm really only asking about towing huge loads over mountains. how to mitigate that properly. i understand the basic system and how it's supposed to operate - but what to do in this specific situation (besides drive my truck LOL). it's fine to about 85 degrees....at 85 or more i need to do something. ideally you have a thermostat for the ATF right - keeping the temperatures proper at low load and high load....but i can't do that. a better radiator doesn't seem practically available.....

make sure the noise isn't piston slap or timing tensioner related - they literally sound like knocking. piston slap noise lessens as the motor warms up. timing tensioner you can see it slapping with the motor running and timing cover off. the Phase II EJ22 is in very low quantity so there's not much consensus on those. but in general they don't have headgasket issues so I'd use the Subaru gasket. the heads will be fine, EJ25 non-turbo heads don't really have any issues. the most likely would be cam bearing related but i've never heard of anyone checking that. you can resurface them yourself as posted in the DIY thread here, it's fantastic. i use the ebay timing belt kits. if i want a better product i go with theimportexperts kits. timing belt, pulleys, tensioner. if you can get an old style tensioner bracket you can use the old style tensioner which is more reliable...but it's sort of a wash if you're buying a new tensioner either way anyway - unless you're planning on 200,000+ miles out of this thing. i also leave the covers off for older gen and newer gen - but i keep them on the motors like yours because they're interference and 105k change interval instead of 60k. my exposed timing belts do cause the pulleys to rust which hasn't been an issue and it's not on the riding surface of the belt, but since newer stuff is easy to keep timing covers for it's been easy to keep them. i don't put all the timing cover bolts in and use zip ties in the exposed holes and they're easily removed.

EA82 turbo engines/heads are more problematic than the non-turbo heads, as such the discussions differ between the two. non-turbo heads for instance never really need checked unless they were severely abused.

Oregon prices are high - sell it! if the 98 is a 2.5 i would also sell that one. i'd be tempted to sell both based on oregon pricing as well. i'd keep however many allow you to make a good purchase when you get there. a caveat to the price difference is that if you're forced to buy a car quick when you get there you're unlikely to get a good deal and the financial component is a wash.

it's 15 years old - it definitely needs replaced. even if the belt was new i'd still replace it - because i'd want new pulleys and tensioners - those are failure prone. get a timing belt kit - with new pulleys and tensioner and timing belt and replace it all. theimportexperts sells them on ebay like $200 for everything if you have the new style tensioner (likely). Subaru changed tensioner style from 1996 to 1997 but i've seen some bleed over like old style tensioners in 97 vehicles. the old style is actually more reliable but if you get a new one it's a wash anyway.

test drive it when absolutely cold and see if there's a delay into drive, common for the 99 year auto trans only and all SUS's are auto's. when cold, start the car and put it into drive. if it lags for a second (or 13) then it's delaying engagement. not a big deal and there's a work around but maybe not something you want to start off with on a new purchase. timing belt needs done though probably was. the only issue is that the nature of the way those headgaskets fail often means the motor is overheated prior to the headgasket job - they overheat randomly and nothing mitigates it - many folks try to limp them home, drive them while they try to figure out what's going on, get in for repairs, etc. other Subaru's quit overheating if you add coolant...not this motor - it is random and nothing mitigates it. so the main question is how badly was it overheated prior to the headgasket job. i used to think that getting one with headgaskets done was a good deal, but i'm more hesitant now on the 96-99 EJ25D's. good that the heads were "redone" which should mean resurfaced, Subaru skips that step usually which i think is a bad idea. the SUS's are really sweet rides, one of my favorites though i avoid that engine. "has had hail damage" is an interesting comment - if it's a salvage title then it's overpriced. but apparently you don't mind and will likely be driving it for awhile until resale isn't really a big deal anyway, so in those terms hail isn't a big deal.

depending on location here's a very quick method - i've drilled a hole adjacent to the sheared bolt/EZout and then "knocked" the broken bolt into the newly drilled hole to wiggle it out. then drill and insert a helicoil which takes up most of the hole you just drilled in terms of circumference. do the drilling on the non-compromising side - like the side away from the gasket/coolant ports - or whatever it is you're working around. quick and easy since aluminum can be drilled in like 15 seconds.

yes interference. best to get a timing kit - with pulleys and new tensioner - those style tensioners are not very reliable for 200k of service. theimportexperts on ebay sells good quality kits that have been used many times by folks on this forum - $160 - $200. i replace the cam seals, crank seal, and reseal the oil pump (sealant and an oring) while it's apart - those are all easily accessed with the timing belt off. tighten the backing plate screws on the oil pump - threadlocker on any that are loose - there's usually 2 or so that are. i often replace water pumps since those are also easily accessed but they fail very rarely. Subaru only on the water pump gasket, the aftermarkets are cheap flimsy cardboard. XACTA or Subaru for the thermostat, aftermarkets look like childs toys compared to them.

200k is not a big deal. you're likely to have a couple maintenance items by 200,000 miles like the most common would be: wheel bearing, alternator, cv boots, knock sensor, P0420 code... i try to focus on items that leave the car stranded without warning. batteries and alternators can give little warning, leave you stranded, and are wear items/fail often enough that i have replaced those in my daily drivers. my daily drivers got new Subaru alternators between 150k-200k (currently at 180k and 211k). unfortunately subaru alternators are pricey and aftermarkets are less reliable so you're original Subaru alternator might be more reliable than a replacement aftermarket. make sure you reboot your cv axles when the boots break, do *not* replace the axles no matter what a mechanic wants to do. i would change the front diff fluid and do a coolant change with Subaru's coolant conditioner (required for that motor). spark plugs and wires?

having it out of the flow of the radiator would be ideal, i just didn't know how much air flow it needed itself. temp gauge will be in order.

2002 H6 automatic VDC. i can envision two possibilities of adding an ATF cooler: 1. ATF cooler pre-heats the air and reduces radiator cooling efficiency - increasing radiator/engine temps. or 2. ATF cooler removes work from radiator and increases efficiency which is it....or is it a wash and there's no change? this question is important because i'm towing large loads and exceeding maximum engine cooling capacity/ability (engine temps too high). this is common with this vehicle, the cooling capacity is the weakest link when towing large loads.

interesting, doesn't sound good. post a picture off the clip, though i don't know what the bands look like, someone will.

i thought i'd try to speak your language for a moment...lmao

i would just fill it and run it too after making sure there's no obvious chunks. i've seen locked up engines run and turn and busticated inner DOJ's run fine once cooled down...those diffs are rather robust and simple, i wouldn't be surprised if it ran without issue. probably likely he'll have noise/play if there's a problem?

thepartsbin.com used to, and probably still does, carry those. but they're only $2.13 (or so) from the dealer...

what does it do in park? does it show the correct gear that selector is put in? (just because you move it to DRIVE doesn't mean the transmission is in drive if the linkage is hosed somehow) does it drive normally at all - or it's obviously slow/messed up? i'm wondering if the shift linkage is shot and it

there are no USDM SPFI EJ engines. they're all MPFI in the US. other foreign markets had carbs, not sure about spfi. by same i simply mean- all your ramblings about fuel injection, wiring, harness, OBD whatever, practical, survivalist are a wash. the intake/fueling/wiring has absolutely zero bearing on what EJ block/heads you use since EJ stuff is so interchangeable. you can yank an EJ25 out and install an EJ22 and it's bolt up and plug and play. you can bolt EJ18 heads to an EJ22 or an EJ25. you can install an EJ18 long block in an EJ22 vehicle, just bolt it to the intake manifold and it's plug and play - or EJ22 lock block under an EJ18 intake manifold into an EJ18......lots of options. i don't care about bore and CC, though memory suggests they do differ. i'm running an EJ18 with EJ22 intake in my EJ25 vehicle with EJ25 wiring/ECU. and it was all bolt up swap and plug and play, very simple. if you're somehow amped up to use an EJ18 wiring harness then simply bolt the EJ18 intake right up to any EJ18, EJ22, Ej25/EJ22 combo you want and run it. the intake is meaningless in terms of which motor you have to run. but they're junk, or at least the ones i've seen are - i don't know how many varieties there might be - the EJ22 intakes ( i get the non-EGR ones with no charcoal canisters up front - very light weight looking) are much simpler, cleaner, and don't have those big wonky cylinders and emissions, hoses, or whatever components they are, the exhaust exhaust porting pipe off the passengers side head that no other EJ engines have (but i don't think all EJ18's have that). i throw them away and use EJ22 intakes on an EJ18.

nah, it's not that bad. 1. i can't recall but i've seen quite a few different scenarios so it's hard to remember which is which vehicle, year, model, etc. some pull right out without removing anything, some have plates, exhaust, and such in the way (some newer ones i think has the plate), and some barely fit but if you yank and push and pull you'll get the carrier bearing ears to pop through. it can probably vary a lot by year, model, wagon, sedan, auto, manaul, FWD, AWD...etc. 2. if you have to drop the exhaust, like larry said it's annoying but not that bad if you just go for it. have some water with dish soap mixed in and the exhaust hangars will slide right in and out of the rubber hangers. then as he mentioned already it's just a couple bolts from the engine and the exhaust is on the ground.

don't you know cheap plastic is intended to be constantly protected by a film of finger oils that it doesn't get if you don't use it LMAO unfamiliar with that switch but sometimes it seems as if lesser used and low mileage subaru's/parts have weird, non-traditional issues....it's as if the parts/plastic/bushings degrade quicker in certain situations without use. be careful if you end up in a newer subaru in the future...you'll hate the increase in "warped" rotors, torque bind, wheel bearings, caliper pin bushings, and other goodies that Subarus eat more of now than they did in the 80's....you'll wonder why Subaru went backwards in so many ways.

this is a bit confusing, you asked if you can "benefit from that upgrade"....to what - coated and lightweight pistons? isn't that expensive, hard to find and impractical? you seem to be asking about a large ticket item, but then squirm at the thought of an EJ22 which is a much easier and practical job. simply clearing up your questions, goals, and constraints would help. you're after torque/power - at low cost? that seems to rule out coated and lightweight pistons referenced in the wiki article which you ask if you can benefit from - so that answer is maybe "no", you can't benefit??? unless you're a highly skilled machinist and can modify pistons yourself, but that's beyond my scope. but again, i'm still unclear what your goals are. the EA and EJ18 are both 1.8 liter engines, so it's not that surprising that they're similar. and to me they're similar, i don't care about that difference like you do. the EJ18 and EJ22 are the exact same engine, easily interchangeable -you can bolt EJ22 heads on EJ18 block and EJ18 heads on EJ22 blocks, swap intakes....etc. i bring that up because - maybe you could benefit from a later EJ22 valve train set up bolted to your EJ18? other folks here more versed in the differences will know more - but maybe the wiki article mentions different valve changes? a 454 is only %5 more displacment than a 430....barely any difference. a 2.2 is %25 larger displacement than an EJ18 - 5 times the difference of the engines you were comparing. a %25 larger engine than the 430 would be a "537"...that's a huge engine that would likely make good torque.

www.car-parts.com find an EJ22 there and buy it. serach by zipcode, search all possible combinations of imp, legacy, years, etc. buying a new or rebuilt EJ22 is a waste of time. if they've never been overheated or run out of oil they run forever, get a known good, low mileage unit and call it good. there's probably a story why your Ej22 ended up being bad....with a little legwork it's easy to get a known good engine and then things are tanks. $150 - $400 all day long in excellent condition.