idosubaru

does this help? EJ25 has huge timing covers with two round forms in each side timing cover like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-Subaru-EJ25-Engine-DOHC-2-5L-Forester-Legacy-1995-1998-Motor-/261152310534?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ccde40506&vxp=mtr 2.2 liter EJ22 has the small timing covers with the single cam markings like so: http://www.ebay.com/itm/97-98-Subaru-Legacy-2-2L-Engine-Assembly-200k-OEM-LKQ-/360552309341?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru&hash=item53f297a25d&vxp=mtr okay if you don't have to worry about the check engine light then you can basically install either if you don't mind ignoring the check engine light. if you're okay ignoring the check engine light and EGR then: Any 1995 is plug and play and runs fine. Any 1996 is the same except you'll any single port exhaust manifold as well (which means any 1996-2001 EJ22 exhaust manifold). Get that manifold and that engine is also plug and play. the ebay timing belt kits are most advisable too, and that 95 or 96 Ej22 will have the older, cheaper, and more reliable timing set up. for $80 or so you get all new pulleys, tensioner pulley, and timing belt.

Final drives won't match. Assuming it's an H4 Outback (and not an H6) - then that's a 4.44 final drive ratio. 99 GT would be the same. Impreza is 4.11. You'll have to work around that - easiest way is to get a matching 4.11 rear differential, your speedo will be off then. Swapping the front diff is quite a chore and not for the faint of heart due to the backlash setting (though you can entertain possibly retaining it by counting...) anyway - Gloyale has a fantastic thread for disassembling front diffs. I've seen cause for hesitating on wonky final drive ratios around 2002 or 2003 but i think that's manual trans, not auto's. Haven't seen much in regards to swapping transmissions this new. If the plugs are the same then there's a good chance it's plug and play and TCU doesn't matter. But that's easily swapped too, those are right above your gas pedal and take seconds to remove.

yes. any 16" or 17" legacy/outback/forester rim ever made will fit your Impreza.

http://www.car-parts.com 2.5's were only offered in 1996+. there is no 1995 2.5. 1996-1999 Legacy 2.5's were not single cam. So it sounds like he is selling you a 2.2 liter. I would hope it's an honest mistake and not a shady seller. I would walk carefully though to be sure. Let's assume it's a 2.2 liter - it will work in your vehicle. 1. If it's from a 1995 automatic you don't need anything, it'll bolt up and be plug and play. 2. if it's from a 1995 manual it won't have an EGR valve and you'll have a check engine light that's impossible to get rid of without some significant effort. If your state has emissions, you won't pass with that light on. If you don't have emissions and don't mind ignoring the check engine light it doesn't matter - the car will drive just fine. 3. If it's a 1996 then you'll also need the exhaust manifold with it as the 2.2 liter went to single port exhaust and your vehicle is a dual port exhaust. #2 EGR comments apply as well - except that in 1996 you can only look at the engine to verify,it isn't 100% accurate to say a particular engine (automatics) got EGR in 1996, so you have to look or ask. and yes - you simply bolt your 2.5 accessories and brackets on top of the 2.2 liter engine, very simple.

the PCV valve and clutch clips are about the only two parts...and maybe some light bulbs, on the entire vehicle directly interchangeable with your wagon. those are best replaced new though obviously. anything else will require custom work and fabrication in which case it's based on how much time and skill you want to put towards it. stereo, front seats, transmission, rear diff front struts, brakes, hubs, rotor, wheel assembly would work for 5 lug swap parts.

post the exact code here, that would be most helpful. you have lots of options: 1. don't get it fixed. the check engine light was probably the 0420 code which is benign and doesn't affect engine performance, it's not even used by the ECU for engine controlling. but you will have a code and check engine light, just ignore it. 2. if it's the 0420 code then simply install the $5 O2 extenders off ebay and the code and check engine light will disappear. 3. have yours repaired if at all possible. you haven't given us enough information to comment specifically but in general the flanges get rusty and fall apart. if the rest of the pipe is in good condition it is wise to simply repair your existing exhaust by welding on a new flange or repairing a rust hole where a hangar was attached - those are the two spots prone to rust/failure/cracking/holes. i could give more specific advice with a better description or picture. in this case the key is finding a good repair shop that knows how to do it right and doesn't want to gouge you or charge inordinate prices to bolt on new parts. typical exhaust repair at the rear flange costs $40-$50 to repair, they just cut out the rusty flange and weld in a new coupler. 30 minutes, cheap, and you retain the rest of the original Subaru OEM exhaust which is better quality metal than aftermarket stuffs. 4. get a used part. the Subaru OEM exhaust is high quality metal and lasts a long time if you can find one that's not already rusty. 5. aftermarket is okay...they just rust out much quicker. they cheaper they are the faster they rust. the really cheap like $80 midpipes/converters can be covered in rust in a year. Rockauto has midpipes/converters for your car for $100. I was going to buy one if I couldn't find a good used one. I got a board member to ship me a used Subaru OEM one from a non-rusty area of the country instead. the consequences to removing the converter is a check engine light. it won't affect engine performance or anything else at all, it can't since it's not even used by the ECU. i've been driving one of mine for 65,000 miles with the 0420 code, it's meaningless. what does "cracked" mean? where is the crack, can you get a photo? you had no symptoms, your description suggests you only went in because the check engine light came on....but there's a "crack"? a crack can be welded shut in 3 minutes but i suspect something more ominous.

so true, cruising at 4,000 rpms seems crazy to me and gets old. that would be the one thing I'd be looking to change, lower the cruising rpms. part of that happens with larger tires of course which i think you have already. but some more gearing changes would be nice if possible. i don't think EA82's or XT Turbo's cruise that high rpm but i'm not well versed in gearing so i don't know what to make of it.

original poster should tell which engine this is - we can guess but there are technically like 10+ new generation engines. i'd be cautious about dumping tons into the heads too unless you feel really good about the history of the engine and maintenance. ebay apparently has some options for heads, someone just posteda link in another thread with heads that are rebuilt or have new valve stem seals, etc. you can resurface heads yourself if you reuse your heads - GD posted a fantastic thread here, find that. heads generally have high spots and should be resurfaced. Subaru doesn't usually resurface them so that might be why you heard that, but that doesn't mean it's a great idea for long term use, they only need the engine to outlast the service warranty. the "642" headgasket mentioned above is a turbo EJ25 headgasket and applicable to 2000 (and some 99) headgaskets. i'm not sure it is to be used on older DOHC EJ25 headgaskets. those are usually taking the 610 headgaskets.

http://www.etischer.com/914xt6.html http://www.etischer.com/914xt.html

what he said - abnormal tire wear is likely if it's not done right.

well, i don't link to normally or put much into that article anyway so it's probably not helpful and better left out. glad you pointed it out. i was wondering why this guy is having issues with new components as well, I've had it happen before too. Actually I just did - I also had rotor vibrations less than 20,000 miles after a brake job...wish I knew why. new pads and greased/maintained calipers/slides. I had to install a new rotor just a couple weeks ago. maybe it's struts as someone mentioned, though that's kind of hard for me to imagine...though they are original and 200,000 miles although there are no notable symptoms (maybe I won't say that once i finally replace them and see how it's supposed to drive). LOL

yes - due the valve cover gaskets now. they are really easy to do and can often be the majority of the leak. you might find the leak subdued significantly with that easy amount of work. the coolant leak needs attention immediately. you don't want to overheat your engine...that can cause immediate failure/stranding and long term damage like bearing damage that will hose your engine later. it could be a simple hose - there's a hose and thermostat housing on the water pump. check those and make sure it's not at least a really simple leak. if it actually is the water pump - then the timing belt has to come off - making it pretty much turn into a water pump, timing belt, cam seal, crank seal, oil pump reseal job since all of that resides behind the timing belt. timing belts are actually really easy on these. they can be done in an hour or less....add a lot more time for water pump and seal installs though and first time. fantastic engines - they routinely make 200,000 miles with ease, if not 300,000. if it's never run hot or low on oil it's likely to do just that.

you're both right and i see no need to argue or get huffy at each other. it's a great fit for some situations and i'm glad you stepped up as the only person to try it and share that experience, good to know! yet it's a limited experience - one incident but only a few thousand miles. there rarely is a one-size-fits-all solution. if it were 10 years ago when i had more time or on a rusty beater about to die i'd do what you did. if it were a car i wanted to keep another 150,000+ miles, or it was a 2005, or in my life situation now where opportunity costs are much higher, i'd like to hear more success stories and longer mileages to dissuade me from a new trans or fuller rebuild.

that's what i figured. wish i knew what caused the one i fixed by swapping manifolds. HA HA!!

Ah ha, that's what i didn't know, makes sense. I was just thinking it would still condust to the adjacent wires as you said, but now i get it - the circuit, the fields, never thought about it before. New motor ordered. $130. The thing was impossible to disassemble, the squirrel cage would not come off. no screws, heated it with a torch in case it was glued, plastic was bubbling and began to melt..wouldn't budge...drilled all over the place, no dice...sad to throw it away when it only needed a bearing. i eventually cut the rear of the case and removed the bad bearing in the back but by this time new just made more sense. I'll be cracking the wheel off with a hammer to at least learn how it's attached.

i did say "supposedly", I'm not 100% convinced nor put much weight in it. i can see the possibility of reading that without a contradiction..."this...results in the condition typically called run-out". he's referencing, metaphorically speaking...using words to explain something in lieu of their precise technical meaning. happens all the time in auto world. but it doesn't matter, it's just an article and not that important, the link can be deleted!

my 200,000 miles 2002 H6 OBW had a weak drivers side spring that finally "failed" (performance failure, not physical/visible failure) due to a large load. rear struts were weak for a long time, 2 years or more. i finally replaced the struts this summer, folks said not to replace springs so I didn't. few months later on a road trip with 1,000+ pounds roughly the drivers side rear sagged well below normal. After that incident the car drove perfectly fine with no load (well, one 180 pound driver - me). with maybe 500 pounds the car handled oddly - oscillated wildly in the rear on bumps. Had to drive 50 mph or less on highway when loaded this much. with 1,000+ pounds it sagged. it never made any noises, all performance issues. what is odd - is that upon disassembly to replace the springs - both sides looked the same and there was no noticeable issue with the spring. same length, couldn't compress it by hand, etc. as poorly as it handled I expected something to be broken, warn, or bent. replaced the springs and it's fine now. anyway mine doesn't have ghostwalking issues -but thought I'd related that since I encountered heavy loads, weak suspension, and wild rear handling.

I would, the job is such a pain and time sucker I'd rather be done with it. If you want the car another 100,000 miles or so then the original stuff probably isn't likely to make that, might as well be done with it. If it's a rusty beater and you doubt it'll last long, they reuse them or inspect and then make the call. I'd replace the throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and clutch retaining clips and reseal the separator plate on the back of the engine with the new metal one while it's apart. have those parts on hand and if you reuse the clutch, install those parts. if the clutch/pressure plate make you want to replace the clutch, then buy a clutch kit and return the parts since the kit usually comes with those.

might be able to rent one from a tool rental company. shops here will pull a vacuum only for you. you can also buy cheap ones. really cheap: http://www.harborfreight.com/air-vacuum-pump-with-r134a-and-r12-connectors-96677.html more expensive: http://www.harborfreight.com/two-stage-3-cfm-air-vacuum-pump-66466.html Might not be perfect but Subaru A/C systems are very robust and not prone to moisture related issues, I've never actually seen it happen even on old 1980's stuff. A sealed Subaru A/C system generally lasts the life of the vehicle without issues and there's dessicant in the drier that will take care of residual humidity. I do tons of A/C work and the vacuum pulling, is way overkill and uneccessary if someone wants to skip it. This will be unpopular but I have all but quit pulling a vacuum, until I see one failure I'm not giving up the practice. So far the time/money/effort saved has been well worth it. I understand all the theory and mechanisms involved, but practicality trumps technical arm chair banter for me.

get the timing kits off ebay with all new idlers and tensioner pulley. those are as prone to failing as the belt actually. they are all devoid of grease by now. the kits are so cheap they're great, you're good for another 60,000 miles. the timing belt job is easy actually. if you don't have rusty timing cover bolts a timing belt job only can be done in 30 minutes....i mean, it won't your first time, but it's easy. take a bunch more time if you start getting into resealing the oil pump (another 15 - 30 minutes), cam seals, etc - which are good idea if you're already in there. but if you got no leaks, a $80 timing kit and hour or so for another reliable 60,000 miles is great. that motor will likely last as long as you care to maintain it if you don't overheat or run it low on oil. those things are solid.

thanks for the follow up on that. i haven't seen that one yet.

crap, and i wasted my time on how to use your engine. i'm waiting until folks get the car to write a book. LOL transmissions are annoying, just working under the car, but they're far simpler than an engine as there is less to remove. far fewer parts - far more aggravation and annoyance. rust and dirt in the eyes, lying on cold floors, stuff falling on you...breaker bar, tools, don't fit....drop the trans and the car is too low to pull it out so you have to jack the car up some more...LOL

right on, that's what I said - 98's are Phase I. that's common knowledge and all over every Subaru forum. I've never seen a Phase II 98, but I'm not surprised if some exist - I've always assumed it wouldn't make sense that on Dec 31 and Jan 1 there's an immediate switch. I'm very familiar with Phase II's being interchangeable with EJ25's - worked on countless, have 2 Phase II EJ22's I'm currently rebuilding. One bent valves, other wrecked lower end due to oil starvation.

I drilled through a few, like maybe 5, copper windings in an electric motor. Small exhaust fan motor. Part of me thinks with all of those thousands of winds, losing a few isn't that big of a deal. $150 for a new motor so I'd rather just install the $4 bearing and call it a day. It takes 5 minutes to install or remove so not much to worry about.

Yes - There is some wisdom in prefering the known engine-is-missing vehicle over the "my transmission doesn't work so surely it's just a cheap sensor fix" diagnosis by the guys dad who has never done more than change oil and air filters on 1970's big block 250's before vehicle.... if you look at the legacy - pass us along the symptoms and we might be able to tell you if it's something common or not. 99 legacy's have an easy to fix delayed engagement issue, buy it if it's that. early like 91's have a transmission cooler issue and are an easy fix as well if the trans hasn't been abused. torque bind is common to all Subaru 4WD transmissions. if it's a manual trans no sensor will fix it - center diff has to be replaced. if it's an automatic there are sometimes easy repairs and there are sometimes easy work arounds depending which of the two possible failures are causing it . worst case the rear extension housing has to come off and some stuff replaced. there is almost always a way to drive a Subaru with torque bind though without damaging anything or repairing it - like converting it to FWD temporarily until you can fix it or installing a switch (only on automatics and depending which part fails) to go between FWD and "locked" 4WD...which is fun anyway! there's the 3 common transmission issues to compare his symptoms against.