idosubaru

wow, break it!! i've done a ton of these cam caps so I'm accustomed to them being tight, this one doesn't turn without stout hammer blows. it was dark and i was not able to pry so i'll get on that next time.

You are wise to check for something simple but it sounds like you have blown headgaskets. Oil/coolant mixing, external leaks, and compression tests are meaningless on that motor, they always pass those tests when they blow headgaskets. You can try a leak down test or test for exhaust gases in the coolant. If it's overheating, bubbles in the overflow tank, and has no heat (or only heat for a minute or two) when it's overheating....those all happen when the headgaskets blow.

1995 EJ22 - the drivers side has the cam cap with the oring underneath of it. This one is insanely tight, never seen one even close to this. I can get it to turn with hammer blows but going back and forth a number of times has not gotten it to come forward at all? Car ran and drove fine.

+1, dirty ones and ill maintained ones have none of that light brownish they're just black.

The 2010 legacy side molding is simply 3M tape and the factory ones come with templates, etc. Everyone says it's easy, you can google it and usually find some hits of folks doing it, with pictures.

pulled the ujoint today - one of the joints, the top one, is completely seized. glad it wasn't the rack. Removal involved the following: Remove both 12mm bolts - top one easily accessible from up top with a ratchet extension. Lower one easily accessible too. On this 99 Legacy the coupler slides up and then comes off the rack. Will install a new one in a bit.

sounds like you did it all correctly: new pins and clean out the bores (or replace if possible) they slide in. new boots, new pad clips, grease the pins. supposedly driving style is a culprit....braking and then holding onto the brake pedal - like interstate driving, then hitting a red light and holding the hot rotors and pads together. here's an in depth technical article: http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths were your rotors brand new? maybe there are higher quality rotors or pad combinations less susceptible to the problem.

Loyales are SPFI EA82 SPFI = Single Point Fuel Injection There are multi-port fuel injection EA82's as well I was just in westminster, MD today. welcome aboard usmb!

A manual trans AWD or 4WD Subaru does have 3 differentials. The front differentials are all open differentials with very rare exceptions that you would know because of an enormous price tag. The front differentials are also integrated with the transmission and are essentially a one piece unit with the trans. * you can get locking front diffs (various types - helical, etc). mostly due to setting of the backlash very few people do it. The center differential is integrated into the transmission and is a viscous limited slip type. I believe iIvans Imports (user name) has been rebuilding them, find his recent thread or start a new one to get his attention and PM him to reply to it. Now that I say this...i'm wondering if he's rebuilding the centers or the rears... The center differentials are sealed units (as you seem to be familiar with - cool, please take on this project!!!). They can be removed from the transmission from under the car without removing the transmission so it's not that large of a job actually. The changing of fluid is beyond me but I like what you're saying, that's cool stuff. presslab (user name - i think it was him anyway) did this with struts, drained and filled them with new and thicker oil with good results. But that is way beyond me. Rear differentials are either open or VLSD (viscous limisted slip). http://www.cars101.com has all the options and what came stock with a vehicle. The rear viscous limited slips wear out though and essentially operate like an open diff, so having one or installing one doesn't necessarily mean much. Some older Subaru's (1980's stuff) come with clutch type rear differentials which are always locked until they reach a certain preset load and then they give (so they are forgiving as needed around turns). I prefer those types myself for snow and light traction needs I have, they are always locked, but they're harder to find.

You already swapped injectors right? I've seen pre-OBDII knock sensor, coolant temperature sensor, MAF and crank sensor failures (rough running and no starts) without throwing a code. OBDII stuff is more robust but I don't think it's immune. Though nothing other than cylinder misfires comes to mind that I have seen. Currently looking into a friends EJ25 that misfires with no CEL, though occasionally it will trip, but usually not. I think it happened once on another EJ25, but the other was a few years ago and my memory is fuzzy, swapping intake manifolds fixed that one. I always wondered how a signal could be so corrupt to leave a car undrivable, or nearly undrivable, without setting a code.

wow, what happened for the price to go up like that? $111.00 here: http://www.fcpimport.com/products/subaru-engine-oil-pump-loyale-xt-028-0338 the job isn't that hard so if you got time, reseal your pump and if that doesn't work then get a new one later.

it depends how your tires are wearing. if they're wearing unevenly then that's a problem. if they're wearing evenly it shouldn't much matter. there's a way to determine the date the tires were manufactured and that tells you how old the rubber compound is. i'm sure you can google that to find out. i've seen nearly new looking tires perform terribly in the snow and freak out Subaru ABS systems. i'm not tire materials expert but i guess the tires could have aged or poorly performing rubber compounds. i'm in maryland now and drove here through that ridiculous snow storm Monday, the roads were uncanny for only having 3 inches or whatever it was around hagerstown. saw one multi-car accident, sat on the interstate stopped (with kid/infant) for an hour, and counted 15 cars off the road the rest of the way home, many 4WD trucks and jeeps. you weren't the only ne questioning their tires!

how about popping out of gear, would it help that? too late for my friend who had this issue laste year but good to know.

or a clogged radiator. may be enough flow to cool at idle but not under any load (when driving).

if you have significant rust then it may be worth trying on the vehicle. rusted nuts, bolts, ball joints, struts, tie rods can turn into a nightmare.

Looks like there are:5 O2 Sensors on 04-05 H6's 3 O2 sensors on 01-03 H6's link showing the difference from an online Subaru dealer: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/36330-2003-outback-wagon-h6-3-0-o2-sensor-location.html

Crack Dave, sorry to hear that. It's a pain job that no one knows how to do but could readjusting the backlash help at all...mitigate the slack created by the excessive wear?

since the front two exhaust runners from the head ports are both cut and have new straight pipe welded in for a few inches it's obvious this thing saw some work and your guess seems likely. thanks O.! i looked at that pic and the O2 sensor was just off to the side and avoided my notice. when you posted it i figured i must have missed it, thanks. that's about where mine is. i thought it was more central on the converter that looks more to the side but probably same.

$2,261.33 here:https://www.subaruonlineparts.com/oempartscat.html opposed forces has part numbers though a bit convoluted for the EJ25 short blocks for some reason, i'd just call subaru and ask. my local dealers have always matched the online prices so you'd save some hassle with shipping/core etc that way.

you can go 2" on legacy's and XT6's without axle concerns, i'd assume something similar for impreza's. yes many lift kits are simply spacers like you said. they are offset though to allow for proper camber adjustment, otherwise the top of your tires stick out and wear on the outer edges like crazy.

ha, i didn't see that. Only $800-$1,000 profit. I mean i'd never pay that and I wish someone would pay me to do that since that's an easy job and doesn't take long to put those parts together. It sounds really high to me as well, but doesn't sound that terrible considering Subaru charges $1,000 - $1,500 for headgaskets only all the time - which is $150 or less in parts. I think you should add that to your line up GD! Maybe I'll start advertising them on craisglist and see if I can get any bites, LOL

VC and spark plug gaskets are weird and seem to me like the most uncertain leakage points on a Subaru. they seem to degrade more than cam and crank seals...which have rotating parts riding against them for 100,000+ miles?

yep, that's about how it works. they're value is simply in being able to take one in for a core or rebuild, so whatever that's worth to you. EJ's have the 1996 remanned units new directly from Subaru for like $60 so EJ's aren't hardly worth keeping. at the scrap yard it's $6 - $9 per hundred and it's getting recycled at least. if you have time there are places, some of the yards, that pay higher scrap prices for starters and alternators, or a bit more for aluminum engine blocks over scrap prices. have to check around and find their lists. could probably google it too "alternator recycling".

New rear coil springs fixed it. I'm surprised that's all it was but it drove perfectly fine now. I had posted another thread about how the drivers side of the car was sagging abnormally low on the drivers side when carrying a heavy load. So it made sense to replace the springs anyway. Ironically enough - out of the car the springs from both sides looked similar eventhough I had those issues? But - the car drove fine with no weight in it (just me).

+2 ujoints i've seen generally go away or lessen vibration in nuetral though i'm sure anything is possible.