idosubaru

Awesome! Sounds like an easy 200,000+ mile vehicle! Subaru dealers don't change the timing belt pulleys or tensioner (it's too expensive) - at most they change the tensioner, but not the pulleys. Next time you're in there consider an ebay timing belt kit for $160 - $200 and replace all three timing pulleys and the tensioner. The pulleys usually make 200,000 miles but they do occasionally fail before then so I replace the pulleys before that second belt change almost every time unless the car is junk (rust, wrecked, etc) and not worth it. These belts are rather robust and don't break often, most failures are due to the pulleys. They loose grease over time and the bearings heat up and eventually seize/fall apart, you can find pic's in forums like this. Or do the complete kit at 200k and you have another reliable 100,000 miles. It's an interference engine (if your 96 is a manual - it is not), so if the timing belt breaks on this new car you will incur bent valves. I've fixed a bunch of them.

there are two engine platforms in 1987, need to know which you have: 87 gl hatch is EA81 engine (adjustable valves) 87 gl wagon is EA82 engine (non adjustable valves) If EA82 - basic steps i'll summarize: 1. change oil 2. reseal the oil pump (or skip to #3 to avoid doing this again or if you're paying someone to do the work so you don't have to do it twice) 3. replace the oil pump ***In the odd event that you have one sticky or lazy HLA, then adding MMO, seafoam, or even ATF to your oil can free them up, but that's rather rare. usually the oil pump reseal/replacement solves it. It's an easy job - it's basically a timing belt job with a 5 more 10mm bolts for the oil pump. Once the timing belt is off it takes 5 minutes to remove the oil pump. Very simple. Grab an ebay timing belt kit for $80 while you're at it - new blets and pulleys - and you've got another reliable 50,000 miles. I'm not familiar with EA81's but looks like someone else already commented.

great thanks...is that usually obvious, have to check with car in the air? first i've heard of this.

two other alternatives i would prefer: 1. disconnect the power steering pump belt. if it's no longer under pressure maybe the leak would subside considerably and not be such an annoyance? 2. dump a bottle of power steering stop leak into it. i usually suggest avoiding that kind of stuff but the car or rack is about to get junked anyway so doesn't really matter. 3. both of the above. yes but i'm confused: "my rack is leaking - let me make sure i can't add any more fluid next time it leaks"? i'm not sure what it would gain you to run the lines together? no. power steering racks work just fine as manual racks. a power steering rack without power though is much harder to turn than a manual rack - that's the difference. you could probably just get a bolt of the same threads or cap off the ends somehow and leave the hoses i place - fill the ends with weld or something...or as you said plumb them together, whatever is easiest. it won't need to be continuous, the fluid is mostly a lubricant at that point and won't need to "flow" so to speak.

okay - you have a leak at the power steering rack output seals - good to know. 1. try to replace the seal in the end of the rack that's leaking. i posted a link today in another thread on this forum that documents, with pictures, how to take a rack apart and rebuild/reseal it. might get away with a new seal to get you out there? or 2. dump two bottles of some power steering "sealer" magic in a bottle. i generally avoid that stuff at all costs but this is the perfect situation - if it plugs the leak for you to drive out there then golden, get a new one once you're to your destination. 3. the manual rack is cheap and would get you out there. that's a great price and usually someone actually wants those that wants the simpler manual system, folks have looked for them before. check rockauto for power steering lines - they have some insanely cheap prices sometimes, might not even be worth building your own. http://www.car-parts.com to look for power steering racks, though i didn't see any close to you but i didn't do all possible searches. XT, Loyale, Other, should all include EA racks that would work in your vehicle (though you haven't told us what vehicle yet).

what is wrong - what does it physically do or not do? it would be nearly impossible for the rack, pump, and lines all to fail at the same time. so it's probably not all as bad as you think. a few options come to mind. 1. If you want to limp it along a few weeks - remove everything and simply plug the power steering lines so it's just simply full of fluid but no hoses, no power steering pump, etc. insert bolts or cut the ends of the power steering lines and weld them shut, reinstall like a bolt. then you got a manual rack that's really tough to turn since power racks converted to manual aren't advantageous but work fine and aren't a big deal on the interstate so the traveling part would be easy assuming the rack functions. 2. install a manual steering rack, no lines or pump to worry about. 3. maybe just the hoses are bad - try replacing those and hope for the best - it's limped along this far, why not another few weeks.

i would fix the speedo cable. i'm not sure when it matters and when it doesn't but i'm almost positive I've heard of folks having trans issues due to speedo cables. could probably start a thread and ask or google it.

some excellent information in this thread, with links to others about parts, assembling, etc: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=121311 includes a link to this very nice write up that i have never seen before of a full on Subaru rebuild: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=45717 although I think he mentions that these rarely fail so he's not going to touch it!! used racks are cheap and usually not hard to find a dry one.for used ones: http://www.car-parts.com

i had this exact problem on our 2002 OBW recently. here's my recent thread about it: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=137100&highlight=sway the rear just walked, like it would pull instantaneously to the side, then starts oscillating back and forth until you slow down and it stops. happens mostly above 50 mph, not really noticeable at lower speeds. not comfortable at all - most folks would have freaked out i believe, completely going out of control - this was not like a little bit or a little pulling, or a noise or minor thing - this was a big deal. one other symptom was the car sagged significantly on the drivers side under a lot of weight. i had about 1,500+ pounds of people and gear in the car and the drivers side was notably not right. i had already installed new struts in the rear so i went back in and installed new springs as well. there was nothing noticeably wrong with the springs but apparently the one side was not capable of holding up the weight of the vehicle. i have since installed new rear springs and tires and been driving it every day. i haven't taken it on the interstate yet...completely forgot, but will soon, hopefully on the way home from work if i don't keep forgetting. but i have gotten it up to 60 and 70 mph on short stretches and no re-occurrence yet.

check subaru's site opposedforces for a part number or call Subaru?

i have a set of valve cover gaskets for an EJ25D that i likely won't need any time soon from Subaru. PM or email me if you want to buy them. i can verify which style if you're intersted.

there are only 2 options for the EJ25D (1996-1998 and 99 Legacy/Outbacks) looking at the spark plug holes and spark plug hole gaskets will confirm. notice the difference in the spark plug gaskets between the following two links, these are the two styles: http://www.ebay.com/itm/98-99-Subaru-EJ25-DOHC-2-5L-AISIN-Water-Pump-Timing-Belt-Valve-Cover-Kit-/360422091684 and here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-5L-FORESTER-LEGACY-IMPREZA-EJ25-VALVE-COVER-GASKET-/200566575313 figure out which is yours and correlate to the appropriate motor, year, etc and you'll figure it out.

no kidding, wow! did you mean "MAF" or "MAP"? i thought these 96's were MAF sensor based? anyway, how did the car drive? any performance difference? that is really strange stuff you encountered.

i've used the cheapy ones before and they didn't throw a code but they do rust quickly. maybe just surface and they'd still last 10 years, i dont know. we're still unclear which pipe you're talking about but yes the catalytic converter is in there. can you simply have it repaired - have a shop weld it back together? $45 and you're done for another couple years. might be worth it. his probably does have a 90 degree bend but he's not looking at it or seeing it. here's a picture of a Subaru header http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=1150857 ignoring that short piece the front manifold is easily seen as one piece and it's usually the parts after this that fail so that's probably what he's looking at. i have a 96 daily driver and a 95 right now - they have the 90 degree bend. maybe there's a different one out there...a picture would be most helpful since those would be far more rare if they exist in 1996.

Subaru offered an extended 100,000 mile headgasket warranty that year so you might check to see if that was ever exercised. call the local dealer with the VIN or ask the owner. no way to tell, it is completely random. if she's that conscientious then she may have records or already know. they can make 250,000 miles with no headgasket issues. and they can start leaking at 50,000 miles. there's really no way to guess. if there's a 45% statistical probability that the headgaskets have already gone or %65.... it's still just a statistic you could fall on either side of and mostly meaningless unless you're an accountant, actuary or some other bean counter crazy statistic type. i lean heavily towards that bent as an engineer and i still would call that crazy! LOL of course it makes complete sense to check it now - they start leaking externally and are very easy to check - all you need is two eyes and look. the good news about 2000-2004 era headgaskets is once they start you can literally run them years with leaking headgaskets. they start out very slow and get worse very slowly. just don't let them run low on oil and coolant and you're golden. if you get the car - do a coolant flush/change immediately and add the Subaru Coolant Conditioner (it is required by Subaru). But - if a coolant leak (most common for 2000-2004) starts - add two bottles of Subaru's coolant conditioner, that actually stops initial leaks almost every time if you catch it soon enough. So - if it's not leaking now and you change the coolant/add the conditioner i'd expect low chance of ever needing to worry about headgasket issues. Of the few generations of headgasket issues 1996-1998, 2000-2004, 2005-2010, the 2000-2004 is by far the least worrisome and easiest to work with and avoid headgasket replacement. the earlier ones are really rough with no recourse and easy catastrophic engine damage, the latter ones usually leak oil and get worse much quicker with no options but replacement. That being said - I would favor this car from what I hear so far, follow my instructions and you'll be set up for a wise purchase.

yeah - take a picture of the part you want. i bet we're not talking about the same things but we're all right. 96-99 exhaust parts are all the same and interchangeable (minus the different exhaust flanges at the heads, but that's benign for this discussion). this ebay listing has a good picture of the Subaru exhaust lay out: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ANSA-SILVERLINE-SU6345-Exhaust-Resonator-/330841485423?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1996|Make%3ASubaru&hash=item4d07b0706f&vxp=mtr i bet he's looking for the part immediately after the converter and thus doesn't see the 90 degree bend - even though he has one. so describe exactly what part you want - but yours does have a 90 degree bend in it, unless it's non-stock/non-original in which case we won't be able to answer your question since any parts won't mate up to it. if he doesn't want the 90 degree bend, or doesn't know what it is i bet he's just looking at this part which is after the 90: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Walker-16090-Direct-Fit-Converter-/321032022217?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1996|Make%3ASubaru&hash=item4abeffe8c9&vxp=mtr so we're all talking about the same things, i think he just needs to clarify which part he wants, there's quite a few exhaust sections under there.

yes have to take the cam sprockets off. can be kind of annoying but i never use a special tool. air tools before you pull the belt off are the ideal way. rubber strap wrenches work too and are easy enough to buy. Post in the parts wanted forum, make sure to specify which covers you need. I have a 98 EJ22 in my garage right now that I won't need the covers on, so if it has them I might have covers. running no covers isn't a big deal. i've run 60,000 miles in my one current daily driver and probably 100,000 miles in previous vehicles naked (no covers). covers could be a liability because i've seen them rub into timing belts before too - that's not good. the practical issue is protecting the timing belts from coolant/oil that might leak or spray out from a leaky hose. if the belt gets wet you should replace it as those fluids degrade the belt quickly. even with covers the belt should be inspected if it's a bad leak. three times on friends cars i've seen brand new timing belts break very shortly, like a couple months after coolant got on them.

what were you trying to do? you had a working ECU but were trying to replace it - due to check engine codes? i've done a bunch of ECU swapping in mine so i'm curious. i don't think the part numbers mean much. they seem to change as protocol, yearly, batches, or something. even in 80's Subarus there's gobs of part numbers for the exact same ECU's and vehicles - like XT6's. i've got boxes of them and they may have all different numbers but they're all the same for non-odd ball vehicles (like the 1987 change over year stuffs and 1995 like you mentioned). i've used at least 3 different ECU's into my 1996 LSi EJ18 FWD automatic (originally EJ25 AWD). noticed no differences between them and got the same codes. curious why you're swapping yours. ECU's i've ran are the original EJ25, EJ22, and a non-EGR vehicle (forget which motor) that's currently in it. I deleted the EGR as soon as I got the car when i installed the EJ18. i even cut the EGR wires at the ECU and installed a non-EGR ECU....and ***still*** got EGR code? luckily it doesn't matter in WV, they don't do emissions or look at the check engine light so I've just left it. but this suggests the ECU's between EGR and non-EGR are interchangeable. there is no rhyme or reason to automatics. after 1995 it's a crap shoot. in my area it seems most of the auto's had EGR's, but not all. manuals i'm unsure of.

Subaru will have those parts. search for "input shaft bearing" Gloyale is a user here who has a nice write up on a transmission tear down...I forget what he was replacing but I think it was an input shaft bearing? Subaru transmissions are largely similar since the later 1980's to now so expect similar overall process. you can't use 3 letter terms in the search here. but you can search via username and select "thread started by" to see what threads they started. enter Gloyale into that box and click "started by" and a search string..."input shaft bearing" or something and see if you can find his trhead. google is a good option, do the search you want and then google will provide a link under one of our search hits that says something like "more results from ultimate subaru...." click that link.

Is it an original tensioner, new or old style? Good call on the tensioner, sounds like something to look into. The new style tensioners make a very loud and notable knocking noise when they fail usually...but there are probably multiple failure modes. not about clogging, classic EJ headgasket problems include pushing exhaust gases into the coolant and preventing proper flow. if the heater blows hot and then gets cool - that is classic headgasket signs. doesn't necessarily rule it out though. EJ22's don't have headgasket issues like the EJ25 but if it's ever been overheated or compromised they can exhibit similar issues. compression and leak down tests aren't useful in EJ engines. every single EJ25 from 1996 - 2010 passes a compression test when it's headgasket first starts to fail.

1. get the same size tires on the vehicle 2. change all or most of the fluid - either flush or 3 drain/refills you might get lucky and incur no damage and need no repair. if the FWD fuse doesn't help then the Duty C is fried and it'll likely need repaired. if the FWD fuse does help then proper tires and fluid changes may free up the clutch plates and get them back to working again with no repair needed. with some searching you can probably find a thread with pictures.

how long was it leaking and how many times did it overheat?any previous work done before all this? how many miles? next time it's running hot turn the heat all the way up in the cabin on high for a few minutes - after the initial really hot air does it eventually cool down after a couple minutes? make sure the coolant is properly burped of air bubbles, these engines are notorious for getting air bubbles in them and being hard to bleed. nose up keep filling while engine warms up with radiator cap off. some models have a plastic bleeder screw on the passengers side of the radiator. thermostat should be Subaru or the XACTA OEM style, aftermarkets look like toys compared to the OEM tstat. But at this point with this much work it appears that's not the issue here. sounds like reduced cooling, clogged radiator (which you already replaced), or reduced flow? headgasket sounds plausible but would really only happen if the car has been overheated on this engine.

Does reception get worse or no change when the defroster is turned on in the rear? Do post back your solution or what you find out - my 2003 H6 Outback has the same issue - reception got significantly worse for some reason, never used to be a problem. I get stations only right in town now, loose it about half way on the drive home. Attached is an FSM shot for 2000-2004 amplifier in the hatch area. The antenna i believe is that line running through the rear drivers side hatch glass (so I would assume the amplifier is on the same side). So, I also guess that means you should be able to test the rear glass antenna like you would a defroster...like making sure it has continuity and isnt' scratched/broken? Are there two antenna's or one, again I'm not sure of that either...I thought I read somewhere there is an AM antenna and an FM antenna...unsure.

Is it a wagon or sedan? I'm not sure how to test whether it's the booster or not? Wagon antenna boosters are in the lower trunk compartment areas behind the plastic interior covers/cladding. Sedan antenna boosters are in the rear drivers side pillar up really high close to the ceiling also behind the plastic trim. AAHHHH..crack, that's fro 2000 - 2004 models....I would expect your generation to be the same though.

the harbor freight simple bolt/clamp type work fine for me and i've used them a bunch of times now as well like Larry. like he just said - oil the threads. i have air tools and can zip them right up, don't know that I'd want to turn that thing by hand, but surely not a big deal if you got time and only have to do it once. the tool rental deals is a good call too. be sure to mark orientation, if you don't get it exact the top and bottom mounts won't be lined up since they are independent of each other when taken apart. based on recommendations I skipped replacing the springs and my rear drivers side spring failed in a few months so I had to do the rear all over again with new springs. may want to replace springs too, they weren't even that expensive. if you wanted less down time, i thought about doing this - if you got the top bits used - mounts, dust boot, bushing, washer stuff (which aren't worth anything) you could build a new strut with a new spring and strut and just swap it out with your old ones. you'd have to figure out the orientation thing though or just get an entire used assembly. Sandy relief event for nipper - Can you stand a long down time? I'll do one or both rear struts for you if you ship the parts! Someone else get the fronts for him?