idosubaru

if the oil loss is past the piston rings i'd get another block. outside of that there are too many possibilities and personalities to really say. one man's modis operandi is different than the next. there's really no compelling single reason to get rid of the block or to keep it unless it's loosing oil past the rings, that's fairly definitive to me. that mileage is not enough to sway me one way or another all by itself. some notes that might help you to consider depending on your particular vehicle/needs: how many more miles do you want/expect out of this car? 1.) 100,000 or less - keep the motor. 2.) 300,000 or more - another one might be a good idea. what condition is it in? how many of those miles did you put on it? does it seem to be in good condition? has the engine ever been run hot or run significantly low on oil? when you replace belts on engines with this many miles and years, replace all the pulleys and tensioner. ebay is the best bet for that - the kits have all new pulleys and tensioner and belt for a reasonable price.

have you ever changed the trans fluid? if not - change it. front diff is completely separate from rear clutch pack, 4WD, Duty C - they use different fluids. front diff uses gear oil - the rear clutch pack/extension housing sits in transmission fluid. completely different, separated and unrelated components so that shouldn't matter. more likely that it just freed up - it's VERY common for solenoids and relays to stick, unstick, work intermittently, etc - so there would have to be something very compelling to think it was anything more than that. change ATF, make sure tires match in size, tread, depth, air pressure, etc.

rockauto had some for sale a couple years ago. i didn't know anything about them, i bought a ton of them because they were only $8 each. still have one or two.

dude! you don't have great luck do you? man that really stinks. isn't it possible that something impacted the outside of the case and is now leaking? did you buy this vehicle cheap - maybe that's why, maybe this thing was previously borked? i mean i've seen a few blown fronts diffs before too so i'm not surprised if it did but that crack at first glance doesn't scream internal or external impact.

when interchanging knuckles, 90's rear (and some 2000's) EJ knuckles are the same with these considerations in mind: 1. match rear drum or disc brakes. some legacy brightons and imprezas had rear drums. forester and i think all 95 legacys have rear disc so yours is clear. 2. ABS or non-ABS. you can install ABS knuckles in non-ABS cars, just leave the sensor out. and you can install non-ABS into ABS cars if you don't want the ABS to work. LOL SVX and 05+ STi knuckles won't work as they have the 5x113 lug pattern instead of the typical EJ 5x100.

+1 that would be sweet, i'm not familiar with knulling.

just like you said - no need to remove or bleed the master cylinder itself, there is just air in the lines that will come out if you bleed the lines. bleed all 4 corners in the proper order and you'll be done assuming everything else is golden.

the sensor on top the A/C is plugged in right? just making sure something else isn't going on. was the engine running while you were filling it? be sure you have the engine running with the A/C on high while filling. if it didn't take refrigerant then that is strange - they should take a charge even if there's air in the system, i've never seen that happen. often times while charging i'll depress the other side for a while and let the pressure in the cans push out a little air when i first start charging. a ghetto way to *maybe* get some air out. but it works fine without doing that too. i have a vacuum puller too but i don't even bothering getting it out and setting it up because i've never noticed a difference between having a vacuum pulled and not. i haven't used it in at least 6 years since i moved, don't even know where it is. if you rent one - pull the vacuum for awhile, not just a few minutes like when charging it. i think the idea is that once the pressure is really low in the lines it allows any moisture in the lines to boil off and come out as well. somehow it aids moisture coming out, not just creating a vacuum, so you pull the vacuum longer than you'd guess. it should come with directions or you can google it.

kits i've bought off of Rockauto sometimes don't have the right size rings/circlips in them so i just reuse them. if you're buying it for that hardware make sure it's going to have the right one.

it seems like oil filter leaks are common enough that it could be a compromised gasket/seal and may not happen again with the same filter. 14460 is the oil filter for 2.2's and 2.5's as far as i know. (matching frams same filter for both part number). 14459 is the EZ30 6 cylinder oil filter. fairly certain they interchange just fine and shouldn't leak. i'm almost positive i've done it before and others have as well. i wouldn't worry too much about cross-referencing and interchanging between models and makes. it's not that uncommon for parts to interchange but have different part numbers - it happens with a myriad of other parts too - sensors, solenoids, batteries, boots, bolts, nuts, etc.. My Kubota B7100 tractor uses the same Fram and Purolator oil filters as EJ22's and EJ25's, that 3593a and 14460 joker!!! I noticed but don't spend any time deducing or interpretting the cross-vehicular implications in that. the H6 filters are said to have more filter media in them.

Compressor failures: Even in those cases the repair is actually really simple. Replacing the compressor is easy. Remove the two fittings mentioned earlier in this post - then the belt and 4 or so bolts holding the compressor in place and another bracket or two and the compressor comes out. Used is a great fit since they dont' fail often, are cheap, and take minutes to replace. Replace the orings while you're doing this and charge as normal. Condensors (in front of the radiator): If a car has ever been wrecked or in a fender bender the condensor up in front of the radiator is a good item to check, it can have holes, be bent, damaged, etc and leaking. Replace with new orings as well - also extremely easy to do. If it's an older car with the schrader valve style like the older gen vehicles then replacing the valve stems is a good idea too while the system is apart. But as mentioned earlier you can inspect for wetness first - they should be wet if leaking. Though if the system has been inoperative for a long time it might have been in the too distant past to leave traces now. Hope that helps get you cool again!

This last picture shows the final bolt for the second fitting. The bolt is removed and the fitting is pulled out of the compressor showing the original black oring on the fitting. This one took me 5 minutes to remove, replace, reinstall - for a total compressor side oring replacement time of 13 minutes and the orings probably cost maybe $1.00. 13 minutes. 2 bolts $1.00 of course there's refrigerant costs as well - $30 or so for two cans at any auto parts stores. There is no problem recharging a dead system. If you can pull a vacuum - great, do it. But it is not necessary and the a/c will probably last the life of the vehicle without it. You might have 52 degree A/C instead of 48....the sacrifices we must make! That fixes most inoperative Subaru A/C systems I come across. I've done dozens and probably have close to %90 success rate doing that...maybe it's a little lower, I don't know but I don't come across too many that need anything other than orings.

Now with the fitting out - pry the old oring off. Be careful those fittings are aluminum and scratch very easily. Fine dental style picks/tools are best but small screw drivers work easily as well. I buy a generic large pack of A/C orings - they're usually green from auto parts stores and match up the old oring to a new one. Pay attention to inner diameter, out diameter, and thickness. get as close as you can - keeping in mind the old oring may be slightly deformed due to age and use. Really bad, hardened ones are often "square-ish" looking like one i pulled last night. they're not supposed to be, that's just age. Have some appropriate lubricant to coat the new oring with and slide it onto the fitting. Clean out the port on the a/c side that the hose fitting came out of. Compressed air is best on the ball/valve styles like this 2002 OBW H6 as the dirt can't go "into" the compressor at all - so just blow out any crud that fell down and simply wipe with a clean shop towel. then simply slide the fitting back into the port and tigthen the 12mm bolt back up. I did the first one in this picture in 8 minutes last night, including taking the picture.

Generally speaking - pull the caps on the schrader valves first and look for wetness under the caps. If the system has never been worked on before they should be bone dry. If it's wet underneath then you simply need to replace the schrader valve in there. They even make a super-fancy tool (that is mighty slick) for replacing the valve without letting transfer of freon to the atmosphere or the other way around). As usual - mine were bone dry last night on this 2002 OBW H6. Touch them with a tool and see if there's any pressure - mine was dead last night, nothign. If they're completely dead and there's no pressure then you know the system is largely devoid of freon. If there's not much pressure, then a tiny amount just vents off, not a big deal. (Like I said, I know some folks won't like that idea). There are two A/C hoses on the compressor - each is attached by one 12 mm bolt. In the picture attached I have a socket going to the one bolt on top of a 2002 OBW H6 air conditioning compressor. Clean off as much crud/dirt as you can around the bolt and fitting before removing it so that the dirt doesn't fall down into the hole. Compressed air, wire brushes, shop towels, spray, whatever you want/got, can use in there. Remove that one 12 mm bolt. Remove that bolt and off the fitting comes. Pull it out of the compressor and you'll see an oring on the end of the fitting in a groove. You will notice it is ROCK HARD and doesn't provide a good seal.

Want to repair your A/C for $2 and in 15 minutes? (not including refrigerant costs - another $30). I thought I would post a thread since I did another one last night and snapped a couple pictures of how easy and cheap it *can* be. I've done this countless times on 80's, 90's, 2000's Subaru's. I realize folks will complain, I would like to avoid those commentaries - the internet is already full of those comments and not what I'm about to show. I'm trying to get information out there that is helpful to DIY folks that want to fix A/C cheap - it is possible on Subaru a/c systems which are robust and easy to work on. This was on a 2002 OBW H6 but the procedure is nearly identical to Subaru's even going back to the old R12 systems in the 80's. I repaired this one in 13 minutes, including time for taking pictures. I have a lot of words and some pictures since A/C work is foreign to many people, but it's a simple process that nearly anyone can do. I hardly come across a non-working Subaru a/c system that this doesn't work on. One of my other 2003 OB Sedan H6's doesn't have working A/C and I am going to bet a lot of money that I'll simply do this same process and it'll work fine for the remainder of the life of the vehicle - it's happened like that many times. I've never really seen any failures besides compromised lines/condensors due to past wrecks and compressors - which are also easy and cheap to replace. I have found that Subaru A/C systems rarely have failures except at leaking orings which are REALLY insanely cheap. So replacing those orings often fixes a high percentage of vehicles. It is uncanny to me how many A/C systems I have fixed for the cost of 2 orings and yet I've never heard of someone having their A/C repaired for anything less than hundreds of dollars at a typical shop. The two orings most likely to fail are the ones on the compressor. I suppose (speculation) they are subjected to higher temp gradients, pressures, and engine vibration since they're on top the engine. What I know for certain is that when they are removed they are often hard, like plastic instead of pliable rubber oring compound and are often leakage points. So - you can usually fix most leaks with those two orings on the compressor. They are usually common sizes you fit by matching up with one of those large A/C oring kits at any auto parts stores for a few dollars. I haven't had a problem matching up 80's, 90's, 2000's compressor side orings. The smaller ones located in other areas are sometimes harder to match - but also less likely to fail.

*slow down people* he doesn't need to take it to a shop. if the info you typed is accurate then this is a really easy fix. this implies that the AC *was* properly working. so - we can assume everything is working properly if this is accurate. if your bathtub is overflowing would you add more water? i'm confused. it's over filled - therefore let refrigerant OUT, don't put more IN? right - if it's full why would you expect, want, or try to add more? when the system is improperly pressurized it won't turn on. it's not supposed to. all you need is a proper charge in the system, so if it's overfilled, let some out. if you want a run down on sealing any leaky systems I did a write up on SubaruOutback.org that I'll submit here shortly...edit I just submitted it here and changed it to the USMB link. Subaru A/C systems are extremely robust, easy to work on, and hardly ever require expensive repairs. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1102613#post1102613

external spin on filters: definitely change them. they were introduced around 98 or 99. do not change the screen in the pan if it doesn't have any issues (like due to that oring possible). inside the pan is one of those transmission pan screens - while they are called a filter, they hardly rate as a filter and are pointless to replace. nice hit with 265,000 miles!

right - rear discs have DRUM brakes and shoes for the emergency brake inside the rotor of the "disc brakes". if you don't know what i mean, remove the rotor and you'll see. when there are rusty lips and ledges in the rotor they rub and cause noises. wiring brushing or having them turned will fix it. or it's the wheel bearing. replacing the hub isn't a terrible idea though if you've never had at those rear lateral link bolts be prepared for a nightmare if you don't take some precautions. around these parts they rust and corrode in the bores/sleeves and shear off easily. they are no fun to remove. soak it a long time in the best rust penetrant you can find. if you have a temp gun you can verify bad wheel bearings by hitting the hub after a long drive - that side will be consistently hotter than the other.

that's good to know, how can you tell which ones are silicon? there are companies that make more robust CV boots though i've never heard of them being used on Subaru's i can't see why it would be a big deal to find one the right diameter on each side and call it a day. you can google them and contact them if you wanted.

rear bearing rusty/bent brake parts (dust shield) are rubbing. having the rotors turned or wiring brushing them will alleviate some noises like this. really need to remove the rotor and get the inside tract as well where the e-brake drum brake bits are, and that seems to be where noises like this come from the most for me.

+1 repair what you have and be done with it. remove the bolt, repair the threads. i haven't seen it so post pictures of the damage, but i bet i wouldn't be too scared. if a machine shop hesitates i tell them i'm confident it's going to work, and am okay if it doesn't. thread repair inserts are extremely effective, seems worth a shot.

the H6 motors are awesome engines. very reliable and low maintenance. excellent motors, that's why i currently drive two of them. both of mine and all my friends run lowest octane without any issues - i suspect your experience would be the same. i don't know how common timing chain issues are but i haven't seen many, i wish i did so i could buy more of them cheap. LOL one of mine had timing chain noise when i bought it at 120k and it still has the same noise at 192k. they don't get great mileage. although - i get 28 mpg on one road trip i do to visit family because it's all backroads at 50-60 mph. but that's the only time - it drops very quick as soon as you start going faster, using the pedal, etc. i'd say 22-23 is average. when you go to replace the spark plugs just do the valve cover gaskets at the same time, that makes the job much simpler by giving you more clearance. if you get an H6 - buy bearings for the serpentine tensioner and idler pulleys (same bearing like a 6203 or something). there's also a $10 DAYCO pulley available at any parts stores that will swap out with them as well. they fail *all* the time, very frequently. i made the same move - last summer i had a 99 SUS and came across this 03 OB Sedan H6 for really cheap because of transmission issues so i got it and sold the SUS. both are great cars. the 99 EJ25D engine of course has headgasket issues so i don't mind getting rid of that possibility eventhough i can fix it myself i'd rather not!

folks say it's much easier to do with the valve covers out of the way, so i ordered valve cover gaskets. sometime before 300k they're going to leak bad anyway and they're already wet on one of my H6's and leaking a little on the other, might as well replace them and make the plug job easier. if the rears turn into a wrestling match might see how many valve cover bolts there are?

you could grab the tie rod and feel a lot of play in it? inner or outer tie rod? i haven't seen a failed subaru tie rod yet, i kind of want to see what they feel like. how long did the Optima last? i have one, don't know how long i've had it but it's been quite awhile.

thanks, how long you going to have it? All Foreign in Pburgh has an entire bumper same color for only $100....we'll see, the old cover is usable but ripped....so might make sense to get the entire thing.