idosubaru

please post a link to that? that would be great to see. getting the old ones out is easy, choose your favorite cutting tool and cut right through the old ujoint.

sounds strange that it would only go that way and i didn't look at the pictures, but it shouldn't matter at all. modern FI systems are under high pressure (relatively speaking) so orientation of the filter isn't going to make a difference if that's really all that's going on.

i've seen aftermarket converters, just little boxes. speedo cable plugs into it and then you get another cable from the box to the car. no way to "convert it" with other parts from other subaru's unfortunately. the one's i've seen are rather expensive - well relatively speaking, not really all that expensive. like $200-$300 comes to mind.

order the rockford ujoints yourself and have a machine shop install them. i wasn't able to find anywhere either and that's what i've done before. this is chump change for machine shops. call around and you should be able to find one willing to do it as many machine shops are automotive focused.

right on, the clock/trip computer also has really long/thick cables that run down behind there as well. actually unplugging those should help free it up as well. they can be equally hard to get to for the same reasons. there's quite a few large wiring harnesses back there like you see on the back of the trip computer.

nice bump noahdl. woah, the displacement drops that much just by swapping heads? wow, would have never guessed it. that's the figures for a 2.5 block and EJ22 heads? I've currently got in my garage: Phase I 1998 EJ25 1997 single port EJ22 heads and manifold So I've got everything needed already on the ground. The 97 EJ22 is one of those rare ones without EGR though but doesn't matter in this state luckily.

i might not be envisioning this right, can you post a picture? if the radio assembly is sliding out 4" that should mean it's all unbolted and should slide all the way out. on XT/XT6 stereos like you're talking about once it starts to come out, it's just one big rectangular box beyond the front fasica part of the stereo so there's nothing in the back that should hold it up. except for plugs, wires, antenna, etc. those will need to be unplugged. but normally the radio comes out far enough to reach back and get those. so you removed the clock/trip meter right? then removed those two vertical screws holding the stereo in place? can't think of what else would be holding it up, but definitely doing good to avoid messing too much with the stereo surround trim piece, they're very difficult to get off and hard to find replacements.

probably on par with most EJ22/Ej25's as far as fuel mileage right (if you can keep your foot out of that new found power )? gotcha - it's a huge upgrade from an EJ18/EJ22 but more modest if you're just doing it on an EJ25 vehicle.

Wow, those never fail. Just get a used one, they'll be a dime a dozen since there's zero demand for them.

right on, that happens, i've seen it too. the ones i've seen were accompanied by a long period of time with noises, whining or grinding. yours failed quick rob? good to know not to risk that. never seen one fail quickly but no doubt it happens.

good call, starter. you only need the front half of the rear driveshaft as the rears are the same. that comes in handy if the ujoints on the rear half are better on your original, you can just keep it.

please do. i have all of those parts sitting in my garage as we speak and am tempted to try it. if you find any of the aforementioned discussions about this on other forums, like nasioc, i wouldn't mind seeing those threads if you want to link them here. i only say that since maybe you've already looked. so 180 hp - that's 15 above stock EJ25? 10% increase.

make sure they're all out for sure. they can be a real pain to separate. this is why i wonder about all the folks that act like it takes 30 minutes every single time. though with experience this step isn't too bad, it's still common and can be a snag. start with a chisel and hammer and work your way around gradually separating passengers side then drivers side and alternating back and forth. i just access it from the top. when you separate one slightly the other closes, it's a 2 steps forward, one step back kind of thing. if you're taking the engine apart anyway - heads or something then removing stuff now for access like the intake manifold won't cost you any time. but i've never had to do that myself, should have plenty of room for something on passengers and drivers sides.

doubtful a transmission issue and less likely torque converter. probably engine related, not transmission. it's just noticeable when you put a load on it (in gear). very common for that to happen. age and miles on the plugs and wires? are the wires Subaru or something else? any check engine lights in the past year or so?

oh yeah, i forgot this is probably a hydraulic clutch then. slave and hose failures are rather common and those parts are replaced in tandem typically.

that's an easy fix to keep it driving, but he'll probably want it to look good based on the before pictures, that will be the hard (cost and time effective) part. he doesn't need a core support or cross member. those are barely tweaked from the photo's. that'll pull right out. i got rear EA struts if you need those parts they're free. i don't have any EA front stuff. might have an XT6 front swaybar, it's yours free if you need it for this fix and i still have one.

you'll know you found the right procedure when you say "who in the world came up with that convoluted sequence?" AT codes are the most annoying to read as such.

someone else will chime in but i'm not 100% convinced that it's a trans failure. sounds pretty bad and it could be but i think the clutch needs checked out/discussed. maybe the clutch fork broke, clips failed, throw out bearing failed, clutch is oil soaked, etc. there are clutch failures that will cause it to "lock in gear". that you thought it previously needed a clutch makes me want to be hopeful it's just clutch related and not an actual trans issue.

DUDE, way to go wagon for doing it's job who cares if you gotta ditch it. Glad you're thankful it did it's main tasked and protected you. Glad you got a decent attitude about it and you're okay and here to tell us about it.' How much for the TCU?!

get the coolant additive in there as soon as possible. use two bottles. you've pretty much already gotten all the help needed for this issue above. reread the comments on subaru's extended warranty and the coolant additive. when was the last time the coolant was changed, has it ever been changed? and was the conditioner used? they leak between the head and engine block, there's only one seam (per side), look there on the rear or underneath just "inside" the exhaust manifold. and of course replacement will fix it as well.

they're only a few dollars, i'd replace them. given that you might have headgasket work to do in the future you might want to hold off until then since they'll need to be removed/easier access for that anyway.

Use the Subaru conditioner. They sell they're own REQUIRED conditioner for this engine. Try a couple bottles of it. It's required with every coolant change on your particular engine. Also - your engine is within the year range of Subaru's extended headgasket warranty up to 100,000 miles. If you have below that call them immediately. I would not touch anything else in the parts stores. That stuff is known to clog other things as well.

over here all the forester final drives are the same. johnceggleston (username) recently had a thread where he mentioned which number in that part number signifies the final drive ratio. it's like the 3rd or 4th digit from the right, but not positive which. find that thread, just in the past week or two, and you'll be able to tell.

they're a low percentage bandaid.

sweet thanks todd, i hadn't seen much discussion on swapping blocks. that's good to know.