idosubaru

I pulled the amp today and swapped another in place - still nothing. But I was hoping to find the pinouts so I could test if it's getting any power. Now I know. It has a round plug and a square - which has the speaker outputs? I guess the rectangular one? Slight change of direction. The head unit has a rectangle plug and the round plug that goes to the amp. Does it work like this: Head unit outputs via round cable to amp - amp outputs to speakers? Are there any outputs on the rectangular plug of the head unit? If that's the case then I'm confused that plugging in a WRX 6 disc changer gives me sound out of my two front door speakers.

Must be a SOHC so it's a 99+ model. Great feedback Noah, I was wondering. I would think they have some kind of repair warranty and if you're outside of that then I would consider any reimbursement above, beyond, and very courteous. I'd be frustrated too, but sometimes I'm in that 1% and get hosed. Machining isn't required, but it is a really good idea and I typically do it and recommend it. That request, and the timing belt, should have probably been asked for at the time rather than after the fact. Not sure if "required machining" is opinion or quantitative? Even still, if it's out of the warranty period....? "Throwing under the bus", sounds like you're ready to escalate... calm and proceed slowly and calmly helps them hear you. Hopefully something will be worked out.

what happens if you're in idle and do it? If the car is on but not moving and do it? same or different results? check all your wire splices/connections that you made, is that possible? i wouldn't think you need to rewire either if everything is working. i've swapped XT6 ECU's auto to manual and the other way around without issue, i think they're interchangeable. although - did you cut the identifier pin - that tells the ECU whether it's an auto or manual? you'd at least want to do that.

i run tons of Subaru's without timing covers, i say don't worry about it. my current daily driver has been naked for a few years, not much to worry about. particularly considering you have a non-interference engine and completely ebay timing kits are only $80 for all new belts, tensioner, pulleys. i got 40,000 on mine like that so i'm do for another kit next year at about 60,000. they're not hard to install after the fact, so move on ahead and do that later if you want. yes i've left out the a/c bolts before, there's way too many anyhow in my opinion! i already replied about your vacuum concerns on the other thread. how about that, 3 concerns and 3 easy answers.

adding a turbo is relatively easy. getting it to work right.... how much money and time and skills do you have to throw at this thing? adding a turbo will require fabricating and welding to make an exhaust. or buying a turbo engine crossmember and exhaust to swap in place. but bolting one on doesnt' get you a turbo that works. you should read up on how a turbo works, others that have done it, and get a feel for engine management options, blow off valves, EGT's, et.a. it's not like you buy a turbo and bolt it on and you're good to go. you're talking about turboing a non-turbo engine with high compression pistons. it *can* be done but in general is a poor idea, or you better do it right or you'll be destroying stuff regularly. so the cheaper, easier, band aids for forced induction engine management start to be less forgiving and attractive. you'd want to monitors your EGT's closely or just buy like 5 motors and swap them out as they blow up, not a bad option for like say EA82's. it's a good idea to have turbo pistons in the short block, so it's best to get a turbo short block or rebuild yours with turbo pistons. we haven't mentioned the propensity for that engine to blow head gaskets. have you typed in "EJ25 head gasket" on a search here or google and seen all the EJ25 head gasket issues? not sure if you're familiar with that. an engine that already has a propensity to blow headgaskets probably doesn't need more heat and stress thrown at it. most folks on here highly recommend using Subaru OEM headgaskets, they redesigned these due to the headgasket issue and aftermarket is not a good fit for the EJ25.

given that cost is an issue then that sounds like a good call. the heads should be resurfaced so if you don't want to spring for subaru gaskets you probably won't spring for resurfacing either. sounds like it's worth the chance since you can do it if you have to later. the EJ22, unlike the DOHC EJ25, isn't hard to do the headgaskets on with the engine in the car. no way to predict the future, so you sort of have to go with what you want. you could type "head gasket" in the search tab and read through some threads if you still wanted some experiences and feedback from others too.

Okay, I see the square plug port that I used on your picture. See the first EJ22 pic you posted, on the top left area, on that rear passengers side intake runner is a square headed "screw" in plug bolt. I removed that and install a screw in nipple to use as additional vacuum line. You just need a nipple to install in there. I'd imagine there's one somewhere on the EJ25 intake, look all over it, all around and under the throttle body, etc for a nipple to screw into that port. Or post on here for someone to send you one? I can probably come up with one, I have a few engines lying around.

Dont' let vacuum scare you, it's REALLY simple. Solenoids need a vacuum to work, meaning they just need a hose going to the intake, it's that simple. It's not complicated at all, just a get hose from said device to the intake via another port, the throttle body, a "T" fitting, etc. I've never swapped the throttle bodies so I don't know if they interchange. I think someone mentioned it before but not sure if they were guessing or knew for sure. Personally I'd avoid that since the throttle sensors might differ or require adjusting after doing it. Not a big deal, but A vacuum T is simple and works.

you have 2 vacuum lines and need 3 on the EJ22 right? One option is to get a T fitting at any auto parts store and split one of the EJ22's 2 vacuum ports and then you have 3 vacuum supplies. now that you mention it I've run into this before. I found plugged up ports elsewhere on the intake. they'd have a small square plug in the unused hole. remove that plug and then install a nipple in it's place to attach a vacuum line too. your old EJ25 intake might even have one of those nipples you can use somewhere in it, that's where I got mine from - other intake manifolds. either way you just need vacuum so it's really simple, just create as many vacuum supplies as you need and retain your "EJ25" set up. i mean, i tend to go the other way but i don't care about the check engine light. install the solenoid from the Ej25 onto your EJ22....can't think of what it is though, seems like the EJ22 should have it? i can't recall what the components were that i've had to create vacuum lines for. actually i think i've even had to do it for straight EJ25-Ej25 swaps - like a minor 96-97 difference or something?

with Subaru gaskets i'd say do it. mdjc has reported on here multiple failures of aftermarket EJ head gaskets. you can search for his posts on that if you want to read more about it. subaru360 is another with lots of EJ head gasket experience. i'd heed the advice of folks that have done lots of EJ engine work, more than just anyone that's done a head job. but you saw the car and the guy and the engine so you've got some good info to work with too. i don't ever recall swapping them but it's so simple maybe I just don't remember. you know for sure the EJ25's will work so you can use those if you'd like. i'd use whichever look the driest (oil degrades rubber) and best condition.

Don't worry about it, it's not a big deal. I've used FRAM's before, only when I've had too, but it's not a big deal even though I think they're low grade and don't buy them. Then again it takes what 6 minutes to change one so if you feel better about it for some reason then 6 minutes and $3 isn't a big deal either! But really, you're fine, it's a filter and they work.

No, I haven't gotten to it yet. I bought a new extendable magnet today to try on it, but I'm doubtful it'll fit, I needed one anyway though so maybe. My order of Subaru parts came yesterday so I'm ready to put the car back together, so in the next week I'll get to it.

My conclusion is that most oil filters are of excellent quality with the exception of FRAM or any re-branded FRAMS and the "expensive" filters like K&N offer no value for your dollar. I wouldn't spend much time worrying about oil and filter choices. Seems like there's an imbalance between desire to talk oil/filters and real world value in said decision. Look up past oil threads that are painfully long...or maybe this one will go the same way. My local auto parts store has a display with a cut open FRAM showing it's "inferior" design and parts next to a Purolator. I use Purolator Pure One's and Mobil because they're often on sale and stock up on WIX when I'm at a place that sells them, they are well respected in the automotive community.

hey i'm surprised to get a reply on this one! i don't know stereos at all. only the front speakers work. the rear speakers..and sub if it has one do not. i'm wondering if that's related or coincidence.

Do these units require the amp to play sound? They are an in-dash 6 disk changer with an amp under the passengers seat. If the amp wasn't working would I get any sound at all? I get sound out of the front two speakers out of my WRX 6 disk changer but i cant' hook up the fat round plug for the McIntosh (for the amp I suppose). Given that I only get 2 front speakers with other units and nothing out of this McIntosh I'm wondering if the amp is hosed?

32mm but like he said it doesn't hold the rotors on.

Mine took a week or two to get better and finally disappear. Yours doesn't sound as bad as mine but give it some time if it doesn't go away immediately. Good luck rooster!

that's really low miles for any glitches. have you ever had any check engine lights or engine work done? all your tires match in size and tread depth, have been rotated? there's only a few simple trans fixes so keep Roosters comments fresh in your mind.

yep, when you're in there swapping cams you'll have access to them. post back what you find, be interested to hear if their seized, loose or what.

the torque converter sometimes stays in the trans, good leave it there. If it comes out at all, even just a tiny bit, then it needs to be reseated. If you don't engage it properly the last 1/2" and bolt it all up then you'll ruin your transmission...well I guess it's not ruined if you like cracking auto trans cases open! here's the key, you should never have to force the engine to push the torque coverter in. with the engine installed you should have to "draw" the torque converter and flexplate together with the bolts. if the engine looks like it's touching or pushing it in then it's not seated.

have you heard it? it might be piston slap or bearing noise? if the oil really caused it then switching back to a normal grade oil should fix it. i would guess he put the heavy weight oil in for a reason...? you should be able to start the car and then listen either with your ears or a stethoscope on each valve cover. should be noticeable which side/one is bad. being multiple per cylinder it'll be hard to tell exactly which one. the bad ones i've seen were easy to tell which side and cylinder and then when i took it apart they were seized. there's a company that sells rebuild HLA's for a few dollars each - mizpah engineering or something like that. or they'll rebuild yours if you want to wait. on the older ones, and i presume the newer ones, you can rebuild them yourself. personally i find it annoying prying caps and dealing with it, but it's neat to do once to learn. the seized ones i've seen wouldn't budge with a vice so rebuilding wasn't an (easy) option on the only two that i've seen cause ticking.

How many miles are on it? I don't think the delayed engagement isn't typical of your year so that might not be the first step to pursue. I think the dealer will likely walk around this one too, but get it in there and give them a chance. See if you can drive in it with them. Or maybe being an extended warranty the dealer will see $$$$ and be glad to exercise the option to extract money from an insurance company?

I just fixed this last year. Everyone I saw was just replacing top hats, and I didn't see anyone else doing this but it worked. I have a needle attachment for my greasegun (available at any autoparts store), and used that to inject grease all in the bearings. Gradually smoothed out and been driving it since with no noise now. Mine was really rusty, crusty and popping/noisy because it sat outside for awhile eventhough the struts were brand new. get some grease in there and you'll be golden.

:lol: !! Yeah swapping front diff gears sounds awesome!

That's surprising given you're in it every day. Davebugs and I have seen quite a few..probably subaru360 as well? But we're *looking* for that kind of car too. Wouldn't a full on rebuild need to be mic'ed and plastigauged or is that overkill?