idosubaru

Hey, don't tempt me that's the thought that has kept this trans in my garage for 5 years! I'm trying to move some large items and make some space, I'm probably getting rid of it.

No one is right or wrong SW, just different options. Options are good since some are better fits than others for different people and situations. Nipper and I mean a used clutch for a few dollars, for some folks that's a better option than hundreds for new. Crank bearings aren't quite the same since that's labor intensive and would render all sorts of other work useless. Now that you mention it we see the value of discussion! We didn't mention a used compressor with clutch, that's actually what I would do before messing with the clutch. But I could get one for next to nothing or probably have one and refrigerant doesn't bother me at all.

Thanks! Right on, I know someone that swapped an EJ trans into an EA as well, forgot about that. Trans is already out so I'll remove the rear extension housing and hold onto it in case I ever need it.

+1. I've done it once and while it was so long ago I barely remember, I did it without any issues one evening for a friend. if you do end up replacing the a/c compressor it's not that big of a deal. these engines are easy to work on. remove compressor, install new compressor and recharge it yourself. the tiny amount of time the system is open isn't a big deal. i've charged tons of a/c this way. it seemed like a big deal to me before i knew anything about A/C, but it's not nearly as technical, unforgiving, and convoluted as people think. that's my opinion, with a 100% a/c success rate so far. if I ever loose one a/c system i've already made up for it in time/costs/ease/etc.

yeah EA head gaskets are easy, turbo and turbo exhaust can be annoying though. yes, head gasket bolt torque procedures are absolutely necessary for a reason. all head bolts are like that as far as i know. there's a very specific order to it as well. follow those exactly. for that matter heads should be machine for a nice clean surface and the block cleaned well too. looks like you already bought the gasket kit but I would recommend, as many folks on here do, using the Fel Pro permatorque head gaskets for this engine. Most of us add a final torque step and add 5-10 pounds to the final value in the manuals. that should be called the USMB head job. low grade head gaskets are known to be problematic in other applications, i wouldn't think about anything else on this motor. yours being no-name brand i don't know what to say - but Subaru FSM and the Chiltons should say to retorque the head bolts...but on a cheap-o gasket like that i'm wondering if it matters!?? LOL if you end up doing it that way, don't seal up the cam carriers the first time, leave them clean and dry. install head gaskets, install cams, valve covers and start motor. when you retorque, then seal the cam carrier. no point in sealing it and cleaning it twice. other than the Fel Pro's, all the other EA82 head gaskets i'm aware of have to be retorqued which is a annoying.

Are the 4EAT clutches and rear transfer set up the same in an XT6 and EJ trans? Wondering if I should keep the tail housing, clutches, Duty C off this XT6 trans before I scrap it?

O2 sensor? coil pack or igniter? any check engine lights? bad/water in gas? EJ engines often are problematic with aftermarket wires, but 3 sets would be very odd.

i'd get his or start calling yards. EA82 knock sensors rarely fail so used ones are easy to find for next to nothing.

yep, very simple. i essentially did the same swap but backwards. bolts right up, nothing to it really. EJ18's have EGR and some EJ22's have it. You'll want an EJ22 with EGR for it to bolt right up.

This FSM indicates a square, blue, 4 pin connector. Got a piece of the FSM here:

I just looked up in a 1989 EA82 FSM Mike and it's showing the fuel pump relay to be just to the right of the SPFI control box. Looking at the schematic it's about even with the "right side of the steering wheel" but obviously it's going to be down under the dash, just above the gas pedal somewhere. I'm not at a computer where I can reasonably post a picture of it, but hopefully that helps?

success. the Kubota has been back to work for a few weeks now. welding went fine. glad you guys told me to bevel it, looking back i would have beveled it more. i welded metal back in place and cut a steel backing plate to bolt to behind it as well which will carry most of the load, so i'll never have to touch it again. thanks to all!

i forgot, for one part shipping will kill the deal probably. best bet is to have a local dealer match the online pricing. it's roughly 20% difference so the $36 wires online would run $42 at the dealer. they've always given that to me when I ask. it's easy for them since they have a price point for local mechanics and shops so they're already doing it every day. one of the online vendors has a $12.95 minimum shipping charge, so it's not economical for one inexpensive part. a few of the more popular Subaru online: 1stsubaruparts subarugenuineparts liberty subaru and Jason at Auburn Subaru is a USMB favorite info on all of those places is on USMB.

Someone has to have a set of used wires around they could send you to test if that's the problem or not? Without a CEL I doubt it's your issue anyway though. But I have see non-CEL faults before. I just order them from the online dealers, $36 last set of wires I bought from Subaru.

if you didn't use Subaru wires, EJ engines are not the most forgiving. i've seen brand new auto parts store wires cause basically undrivable conditions, massive bucking, hesitating, etc. i would expect a cylinder misfire code though so my first thought is yours - try and check that O2 sensor. i've seen O2 sensors cause drivability issues when the wire sheathing wears off exposing the wire to exhaust parts or the cross member.

Nice. Cam seals are the same too? Crank seals? Oil pump orings had a change, not sure if it matters though.

Regarding 1995-1998 EJ22's and DOHC EJ25's: EJ22 and DOHC EJ25 timing idler pulleys are the same? The tensioners are the same if they're either the old or new style tensioner? EJ22 and EJ25 water pumps are the same?

While making sure it's not something else, EJ knock sensors typically need replaced with age/mileage. The base of them gets rusty/corroded and the rubber begins to crack and degrade. Might be able to just remove, clean it up and get it to go away. Or replace.

okay, i've done that before on others and partially pulled this one out, but there's still an outer shell between that smallest one and the torque converter...it's hard to explain with all these different shafts and such. i feel like there's three - the torque converter shaft, then another, then the smaller one that slides out that you're talkinga bout. but i might be describing it wrong.

clip is still in the tube in the transmission, looks like it's still in place. i thought about that but didn't think it'd clip in place. thanks Gloyale, i'll try that first.

none of the ones i have are even close to fitting, it's a very tight space between the center shaft and outer wall. I tried one small screw driver inside of it and another outside and sort of "squeezing" and it didn't work, ended up sliding further in, too far to get to with a small screw driver. I should have "tilted" the car from the start and these suggestions would work, i need to do that next.

Not sure how many miles on the EJ22 but assuming it's in decent shape you probably have another 100,000 or 200,000 miles out of it if you're going over it completely. Hopefully it wasn't ran hot very much, that's not good for metals? I'd plan on doing everything...head gaskets (I'd use Subaru head gaskets on this engine), valve covers, crank and cam seals, cam orings, and an ebay timing belt kit and a water pump. that's basically what i do to all of them that i do. good til the next tbelt change, then just install another belt or another timing belt kit again off ebay - at $80 for everything it's a killer deal. If you're going to have the engine for awhile and put some miles on it, clean the EGR out and remove and clean the rust off the bottom of the knock sensor while the engine, is apart and replace the PCV too. those are minor since it's all doable in the car and doesn't cause any particularly terrible problems but they can give check engine lights over time as they degrade. thaks Gloyale, now i might vaguely recall him doing that swap.

thanks john, got that image pulled up. i doubt a coat hanger will work, the space is really thin, it would have to be nearly perfectly straight, but i'll give it a go and see.

in their defense (which you'll rarely hear from me:lol:) if they recommend replacing the water pump, tensioner, etc they will start quoting $500 more for a timing belt job. most folks will go elsewhere or spread word about what "crooks" they are because they say they need more parts replaced than they actually do. the average person does not want stories or a quick lesson in mechanics. so they're kind of in a hard spot having one timing belt job for everyone. and since you're doing the work yourself they don't have anything to gain from you by having a timing belt protocol that's up to your standards. i actually agree with you and generally distrust dealers/mechanics. but realize that we're the oddity by wanting to keep a car well maintained beyond 200,000 miles and doing the work ourselves. the average consumer going to a dealer is not keeping cars very long and not doing the work themselves. they really have no idea about their car. so while i tend to distrust dealers i also realize the difficult position they're in.

I don't recall any off the top of my head. It's rather straight forward. Other than the few lower engine to transmission bolts being a total pain to get too, the rest is straight forward and simple. I like to unbolt steering pump from block and swing to passengers side, same with a/c to driver side, so you don't have to disconnect anything. A/C will require a bungee usually to hold it out of the way. Remove fans and best to remove radiator for more room and so nothing hits it since it's easy but it'll come out with the radiator in place. Remove starter for access to bellhousing/engine bolts. Only two 14mm engine mount bolts underneath. 6 14mm exhaust manifold bolts. Remove the one bolt holding the exhaust back by the trans, 14mm. Don't have to remove the exhaust from the hanger, just helps to remove that bolt if you need wiggle room with the exhaust to pull it off the exhaust studs (which usually come out of the engine anyway so it doesn't matter). Disconnect all the air hoses and one vacuum hose going to passengers side. 3 electrical plugs to disconnect on the passengers side, real simple. throttle cables are really easy, like any other pretty much. disconnect heater core hoses from engine to cabin wall and radiator hoses. Automatic - remove flexplate to torque converter bolts through the access hold under the throttle body. Pretty straight forward as far as engine pulling goes, no special tools needed though an assortment of extensions and definitely a wobble socket will help with those lower engine to transmission bolts and the two lowest nuts, they're really annoying. Other than those notes on those bottom nuts there's not much too it. If you don't have good tools for that or can't get to them, just knock the pin out of the CV axle so it can slide away from the transmission, giving you extra room. Really simple too. Once all unbolted just keep working yourself around the bellhousing with a small screw driver, big screwdriver, then a chisel until the engine and trans separate. if it's the first time being apart they'll be really tight and need some working. if not they usually split right off.