idosubaru

doesn't sound weird to me. you're having issues and the check engine light is on telling you most likely exactly what the problem is. check the code and get back to us. the IAC or throttle probably just need cleaned, both very simple and nearly free. like i said - start by reading the code, the answer to your question is right there most likely. +1 for subaruxt.com for your XT6 specific needs too.

being much more expensive i'm guessing brake cleaner is different. my guess is a google search would answer that questions.

good things come to those who wait!? Nice hit nip!

The moneypit is asking questions in PM's so here's the answers. EJ front strut extensions and EA rears. Have to be tweaked and drilled to accomodate the air lines if you're retaining the stock air suspension like I did. I used SJR stuff. The common 205 55/16" tires on WRX and all sorts of other 16" subaru rims fit with no problem. I'm currently running 215 60/16 (forester XT Turbo) and 225 55/16 (H6 OBW) tires and they fit as well but you have to bend the metal mud gaurd on the front air strut for those to clear or they'll rub. Just push them in by hand, real simple. Not sure how spring struts affect tire size, though it would only be different in the front, if at all. I like the extra clearance, visibility, and height for getting in out of the car without sacrificing handling like my truck which I don't like as a daily driver at all.

I'm with Gloyale - it's not statistically likely that the trans failed while sitting on their lot or during their 7 mile test drive, it shouldn't be worse when you pick it up. have the fluid and filter changed again. might not help at all, but why toss a trans that might be fixed for $100? also - if it is seals you have one other option. the 99 model year has a bizarre delayed engagement issue due to a seal. folks have had excellent results fixing that with an additive to the fluid. there's an enormous thread with lots of success stories here that you can read, i've done it myself. i would certainly give that a try before ditching the trans. A 2000+ Subaru trans having issues is odd. They don't fail very often, I would have no problems (and have done it) installing a used trans into the car. It's easy to find one from a wrecked car, so you know it's good. Nice thing is they're not that expensive if you shop around because demand is low (few issues). Your biggest hurdle might be it being so new - that will drive price up and make it harder to find what years interchange.

all covered here in great depth. no ECU needed. either trans will bolt up just fine, motor doesn't give a rip what trans it's bolted to and most subaru transmissions are easily interchangeable. as far as the trans go - the final drive ratio needs to match the rear diff of the car.

wow crack that's expensive. i know someone that tried to fix the front diff and ended up with another failed diff shortly afterwards. guess he could have done something wrong or had the backlash hosed but i was thinking it probably damaged something else - like the pinion shaft you're talking about. good job getting it done, sounds like a bear of a job.

I've never heard of the bracket being replaced. I wasn't aware of the newer style tensioner either. Given the lower reliability of the "new" style 96-2000+ tensioner as compared to the older style I'd be interested in this upgrade as well if possible. I never thought of the bracket being the issue since it's the hydraulic mechanism of the tensioner that typically fails, but who knows.

yes, swap the entire rear hub assemblies. down south, no rust, should be easy. get the ebrake cables with the hubs as they are different. i think you can probably make it work but much simpler to just swap the cables too. this has been covered fairly well, so check out some other threads where it's been done. almost any rear EJ hubs are going to interchange. like 1990-2004 and probably more. avoid SVX and late model WRX. you'll just want to make sure it's from a 4WD and ABS if you have ABS.

everything you've asked is covered. do not consider fel pro head gaskets, Subaru only for EJ engines. practice with the search engine and spend some time reading. notice at the bottom left of the screen there is a list of similar threads to yours.

Come to think of it - I believe I've seen new springs for sale either at thepartsbin.com or rockauto.com if you want. the crank seal is a real pain to replace, not much room to work with to press it in. the oil pump and cam seals/orings are easy.

If you're leaking oil, just reseal the front of the engine while you're in there. With the belts off it's only another hour or two work and you've got seals good until the next timing belt change. You don't say what year/model but being old gen it's probably like 20 years old, hardly worth chancing it in my opinion. Leakage points: Crank seal Oil pump - gasket, oring, and shaft seal Cam seals and orings I typically replace all of that at once with the first timing belt I do on an EA/ER vehicle. But you could just see which of those is leaking and reseal the crank, oil pump, or cams as needed. I've never replaced the springs.

you're amazing that's absolutely awesome. wish i lived closer to see hands on what you're up to and the interfacing and all. that's great.

Last I checked MWE (fall 2009) I think EJ's were $75, though I don't know if that's a rebuild or new price. XT6, which he always builds with new, were $95 or $100 I think (fall 2009). Price may go up if there are cores and shipping. I'm not sure if he charges cores for all. On one or two occasions he's had specials for USMB.

just clip the belt to the pulley, very simple. belt wraps around pulley (sprocket with teeth). clamp belt to pulley lip to keep it in place. don't need a seal puller, i dont' even know if there's enough room to use one down there. if you replace the crank seal (part of the oil pump) i'd just remove the entire oil pump. tighten backing plate screws, replace oring, replace crank seal and resael it. doesn't take long.

just get a single port exhaust header and expand your option. it's only two more bolts and a gasket. like this guy did: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=88299 now, if you can't find one that's another issue. but surely someone on here probably has one to sell. not bad to ship, don't need boxed, just strap a shipping tag to it and wrap it if you want.

good call - the 93 FWD's have that weird axle count. yes an EJ22 will bolt right in place. the wiring and all is different so you'll install the EJ18 intake manifold on top of the EJ22. the Ej18 manifold is uglier and messier looking in my opinion but who cares. they are the same engines essentially, same timing component parts/kits. the EJ18 will have dual port heads sand EGR so you'll want an EJ22 to match or just swap exhausts to single port (direct swap) and EGR as you want to match. that stuff is all easy to work around.

There's no need for that tool, I've never used one. Even my first time doing a DOHC engine was rather simple. It's a "little" trickier given the DOHC nature but really it's just like a tiny percent extra paying attention and making sure you're doing it right. If that messes you up you shouldn't be doing a timing belt on an interference engine. So you'll be fine. They are actually stricktly for holding it in alignment anyway, not removing the bolts. A friend bought the tool and bent it :lol:, sorry friend, by thinking it was to hold the pulleys still. Those cam bolts are TIGHT. So he ended up not using the tool after all. Rough running is not likely timing belt related. Plugs, wires, air filter, injector cleaner, O2 sensor, etc are all more likely if it's noticable at idle. If there's slight hesitation while shifting and an auto replace that small round circular filter for $7 from subaru on the passengers side vacuum hose. As for timing belt - if you want to do it right consider the ebay kits. Import experts are the board favorite for quality and service. Much cheaper than dealer and you get all new parts, at your age and milegae there's no point in my oppinion of installing a new belt with the age and greaseless nature of those pulleys. Sounds like you're on your way to a good tune. My recommendation is plugs, wires, PCV valve, air filiter, sea foam the engine. Then timing belt, water pump, and reseal anything that's wet with oil - oil pump (backing plate screws will need to be tightened), cam seals, crank seal. All of that stuff is covered in detail on here or endwrench if you have questions.

what do you mean, what's your exact question? I think I explained it above. Aftermarket axles have a failure rate. Say it's 20% (i'm making it up). That's horrible and doesn't bode well for having the axle for long periods of time. They probably don't care since most folks replacing an axle on 10-20 year old cars aren't going to own them long. I've had one brand new one explode into pieces after 100 yards and at least two (if not more) vibrate out of the box or within a couple months. Once I saw others here and elsewhere having similar experiences I looked for better options, my preference is closer to 100% success rate and longer lasting axles as I keep my vehicles for awhile. There are many, many threads on here about failed axles. A quick search turns up this one where at least 5 folks mention bad New aftermarket axles, some take a year to fail. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=83267&highlight=vibration+axle&page=2 And we see similar threads on a regular basis. It comes down to personal preference. If you don't mind a higher failure rate then go for it, chances are good that you'll be fine but annoying if you aren't. If you want near 100% success rate go with MWE or reboot a Subaru axle.

Subaru's can treat you right for functional useage. If you're looking strictly for play like trail riding, clearance, rocks, deep mud, stream crossings all the time then you'll want to follow all the advice above. A turbo wagon needing headgaskets is almost worthless, not worth much more than scrap prices so it should be a really good deal particularly where you live with Subaru's everywhere that dont' rot to death. Even out here it's hardly worth anything. But - it's not a bad vehicle. The turbo, while one of the worst Subaru engines, can be made fairly reliable if you don't boost it (it's not a track car) and replace all the 20 year old hoses, seals, and gaskets. They can be reliable, just most aren't worth the time/money since their monetary value is so low. A labor of love no doubt. The auto's treat me just fine in snow/offroad by adding the Duty C mod. Just splice one wire and you can make it "locked". I don't play though, I have to traverse unmaintained snow covered roads, hunt, and drive around my property for basic maintenance like towing downed trees, etc. For my purposes the auto is fine. For serious offroading I defer to the folks that know what they're talking about.

GL hatch = EA81 GL wagon = EA82 well that even depends on year I think. EA81 and EA82 axles are different. Your best option is to reboot Subaru axles or get them from MWE. Aftermarket axles are annoying, search here and you'll find gobs of threads with clicking, grinding, noise, vibration, leaking, blowing to pieces, etc. Granted, 8 out of 10 are fine so you're chances are good at not having any problems. But down the road and if you're time is valuable aftermarket is a waste unless you're time rich and cash poor I guess.

for EJ engines, not all Subaru's. I'd keep a keen eye on where/how the headgasket is failing when you take it apart. And dont' forget the Subaru coolant additive that's required by Subaru on 03 EJ25's.

having converted a turbo to non-turbo (though in an XT) JCE - i say exactly what they say, just fix whatever breaks. there's not that much more to them in some regards. turbo's have coolant and oil lines that are prone to leaking and i'm not sure what they're made of in the EJ's but make sure those hoses/lines aren't cracked, rusted, old. if they are, put all your preventative maintenance there. if the wiring harness is similar enough you can swap motors and ECU to match but i haven't looked into EJ stuff enough to know if they're close or not. i have a scanned copy of the 91-94 EJ22 and i believe it has both in it - EJ22 and EJ22T. i can probably be coaxed to mail you a copy some day.

cars101 should have all the weights, doesn't it? early 2WD 2 door impreza is my guess. the early models were probably lighter than the later ones, not sure on years but the divide probably happens around 95. not sure what changes happened through 94-96 on these. the OBS is the hatch back version and is far more functional and looks better, particularly off road. might be worth comparing weight to see how close it is.

okay i'm going to be blunt just to make sure you're headed in the right direction. you're getting hosed and not doing things right. whoever is giving you your information i would quit listening to them and spend more time here. unless you like doing jobs like this over and over and paying for parts you don't need. not trying to be mean but save yourself some hassle. fel pro gaskets are known to not seal well. this engine is notorious for leaking headgaskets, why not use the ones designed and redesigned by Subaru? mdjc has had numerour Fel Pro headgaskets come back with leaks. Use subaru. Buying new head bolts for this car is a complete waste, you gain nothing. You don't replace head bolts on all cars, only some, depends on the design. This engine also requires the special Subaru additive. Was that installed with the new coolant after the headgasket change?