idosubaru

Hey slick, welcome. This place is the mechanical Subaru mecca, with all sorts of well versed and experienced folks. Subaruxt.com is an XT community, many of us are cross members but the XT community is a great place for XT specific info, many of those guys spend more time there than here if you need something XT specific.

I have never actually heard this before until I tried doing a quick search: I didn't find any instances of someone actually replacing the bearings, very odd for this community who's quite adept at DIY. I've removed the front grease seal before and regreased the existing bearings. Thing is your bearings are actually fine they're just devoid of grease. Regrease them and they're smooth as new. But it's not easy doing it either. I've been going with the Ebay kits - they're cheap and include all new pulleys. I plan on inspecting them at 30,000 - 50,000 miles. I don't leave my timing covers on (well except on the one with a timing chain!! LOL), so they're easy to check.

So you just want the bearings? The necessary information is printed on the bearing seal if you have any of those. I would think it's been listed before, have you searched?

I didn't read all of that and you're more versed in this than I but sounds like typical over-hyped marketing to me. From what I've read ignition wires don't increase hp or mileage. When gains are seen it's because something was wrong, not because something was improved. "full power" "hotter spark" - all typically verbose language for someone trying to sell something. what is it you're looking for exactly?

%75 sure they will fit. i was planning on installing a 1997 era hitch on my 2002 OBW because it's a lower profile than what i have on there now. when I looked into it last summer i thought i came to the conclusion that they're interchangeable. but it's been awhile and i'll even double check before i actually remove mine to swap.

yep all EA82 struts are the same as far as fitment. even the air, just swap them all day long. the ride heights differ a little with the most noticeable difference being the rears, i believe 2WD rears are preferred if you're converting air suspension - but it's been a while. this is covered extensively and done all the time. over on the subaruxt.com forum this is very common too since all 4WD XT6's came with air suspension. though in the case of the XT6 the fronts are completely different so swapping those is a different story than your 4 banger XT.

oil filter won't matter. although that sounds odd since i thought all Subaru auto trans had filters in 1998 and later? maybe the 2001 was replaced before? either way, it's just an external filter and means nothing, the trans should still be interchangeable...well could be. as for the axles, not sure exactly what you mean? both have stubby shafts or not? it may be that the stubby shafts are not on the "new" transmission. if not, just install the ones from the old trans. they have a circlip and pop into place.

If this is the case - I'd go with leaving power to the ECU as well. Wire it in such a way that it's switched power - a switch that you'll only use once a year (or whenever you have emissions). Make the ECU constantly powered, leaving the switch on for those days. Then off the rest of the year. Should just be one wire - battery to ECU with a switch in between. Stereo and other components have constant power to for memory, etc. You can just tap one of those lines behind the stereo. two tapping connectors, find two wires and install a switch.

Yep - McIntosh is only available in H6 version was my understanding. I'd prefer the H6 VDC version over anything else. The H6 is a better motor in my opinion. But if gas mileage is a concern the H6 probably isn't your choice. And you can't get a manual trans in an H6 (without converting anyway!). EJ25 has more issues than the H6. changing the H6 oil is important, being the only Subaru engine with a timing change it's best done frequently and done right as it'll be less forgiving than any other Subaru engine probably if not well maintained. For me heated seats are a novelty, take it or leave it. My tolerance for discomfort is really high (that's why I also own XT6's ) so a cold car hardly registers on the radar for me. If I'm cold then it's real bad and I just want a warm car - which these warm up real quick.

you didn't mention whether it's manual trans or auto, that's makes a difference. if it's an automatic: force the rear transfer plates to fully locked (easy, just one wire) and remove your front axle, but you'll need the outer cv joint from an axle to install in the hubs so the axle nut is still in place. i know someone that's been driving like this for years and he's got 100 more hp than your EJ22, though he's not racing and flogging it. if it's a manual you'll need to find one with torque bind and run it RWD the same way, with no front axles. or install an older generation style transmission that has a locking center diff and lock it and remove the front axles. i recommend another thread for the turbo swap but in general it's a huge job. everything fits without much difficulty but you'll have all sorts of wiring and electronics to work out - which is complicated and/or expensive. so you'll have to ask more specific questions to find out if you can do it. anything can be done - do some research and ask some specific questions.

As to the OP don't worry about your trans unless you have something specific. Rotate, properly inflate, and have your tires matching and change your trans oil and you should be fine. If you have issues ask. Manual trans get torque bind. Those are the ones you can use to make a RWD or FWD Subaru manual trans! What are you guys referring to with "traction control"? Is that VDC? That only comes in 2001+ H6 models and others later on. No Subaru's prior to 2001 have VDC or other forms of traction control I don't think.

If you're just looking for some add on gizmo's and like the novelty aspect then just bolt on whatever you like and enjoy tinkering with. Intake and exhaust would be primary aids and cams if you want to go that far. NASIOC and the RS site he mentioned probably has lots of stuff on that. Some folks on here work for a joint that makes cams for this motor and I as well as plenty of others, have used them. I have a head ache and I can't stinking remember their name..!!!!!!! If you want a vehicle that's actually fast then I wouldn't worry about this one Just enjoy the car for what it is and don't waste the money on it. Or install a turbo. That's the only way to really make it fast. You can't modify a non-turbo and really get good numbers easily with bolt on's, etc. And actually the EJ22 is easy to add a turbo to inexpensively and it can handle a few psi rather well. Depending what year you're talking about the EJ25 is a direct replacement too. I wouldn't really consider that a cost-effective option myself but might work for some people. But fast and "more hp" is all relative.

Check with CCR too? Other than them I'd go JDM before rebuilt as well personally. Finding a good used one and having it resealed is a good option too if you can find a known good used one.

curious - what's your plan? yank the EJ25 and install the EJ22 with the EGR on it? doesn't sound too bad, that's awesome you had a spare head to test, good work! if you wanted to keep a spare motor around you could do an engine swap every time just for emissions goofball emissions debacle.... woah - finding a way to "trick" the ECU into keeping the reddyness monitors, that's awesome. who knows how to pull that off? would just keeping it powered do that?

yes it should, XT6 is nearly identical and the way he's describing it should be relatively easy actually. i've dealt with this same issue a number of times. once the manifold would actuallly come up a bit, but not all the way off. i used a sawzall to cut the bolt under the manifold. but more than likely it'll stay flush. if you're doing the head gaskets and having the heads machined the machine shop can remove the bolt as well very easily. but these are actually not that bad to remove as far as bolts go.

are these the same guys that say battery discharge is a factor in EJ25 head gasket failures? i think it is. we've been saying for quite some time that the old style tensioner is much more reliable than the new. i can't believe how many new style tensioners i've had to replace, up to 2003. i've never replaced an old style tensioner yet eventhough those on average should be seeing higher miles and older age. not sure how much the bracket really matters here, just run the old style tensioner if you can.

Yep, that's what I would do if ignoring it wasn't an option. That's the solution I've mentioned in other threads, I think to you as well. No one has tried it yet but it's very simple. I've drilled and tapped blocks before for other various similar items. It's very simple, aluminum is easy to work with. Pretty sure yours is out of the car now, but with a right angle drill it would be doable in the car. Yes your EJ25 EGR stuff should work with the EJ22, the valves, pipes, and solenoid are all the same I'm pretty sure. What a crack you have to go through all of that just because of that emissions year conundrum. You deserve a medal for hanging in there and staying sane with that mess!

Being that thick and aluminum it might be hard to get the soak time just right, particularly with propane, but it's probably worth a shot. I wouldn't be too worried about the aluminum deforming, I'd make sure you're using an OEM gasket anyway since the aftermarkets are really flimsy and weak. An OEM subaru gasket won't leak.

I'm with GD if you can't get it out swapping the rear plate is a simple option. Is this for an EJ? I might have an EJ rear diff sitting around, if I do I'll send you the rear plate. I think you're betting on really good odds that the oil is old too RG. That is crazy, I haven't had one that tight yet weird considering us rust-belters have all the other corroded/stuck/rusted bolt issues.

i've had a bunch of these and posted quite a few times on how to deal with them. remove the bolt. the intake gaskets are prone to leaking anyway and the xt6 is much longer and more spread out than EA stuff, i would not feel comfortable leaving unless it was my own daily driver and my problem to deal with . i just helped a friend remove one the other day. you loosen, then tighten, loosen, tighten. then go do something for 15 minutes to let it cool down and not shear off. repeat. after 30 minutes to an hour the bolt will come out. but it's tedious. you're past that point. just work the intake off, drill it out if you have too and remove the bolt. and don't use an EZout, if one of those work then any number of other things will also work. if you have any thread left sticking out of the head (which you should) the easiest way to remove it is to put a nut over the bolt shank and fill it with weld, then use a socket to extract it. without the corossion inside the manifold holding it anymore it should pull out of the head just fine. if not - use a left handed drill bit and drill it out. eventually the lefthanded bit will actually unthread the bolt.

Friends 1996 Legacy Wagon EJ22 Automatic that I picked up and fixed for her cuts out randomly. Never had a check engine light, no other symptoms, just start....drive a bit and it cuts off. Then takes a few minutes to restart. Otherwise it runs and drives fine, no issues. I've never seen an EJ have a no start due to spark plugs/wires without it having a cylinder misfire code too. Is that possible? Crank/cam sensor - they can cause a no start without a CEL too? Anyway to test which one?

If there's rust the lateral link bolt won't come out, period. I just did my 1996 Legacy last year which spent it's prior life in Pittsburgh, PA. It has zero rust on it and the bolt came out without much problem. So even the winter, salt, and such didn't hose me on that one. So there's a chance, but often times they're a real bear to get out. If there's any rust definitely a good idea to swap the entire arm.

Headgaskets. Buying a JDM engine doesn't add any value in terms of head gasket issues. I'd do the valve cover gaskets and spark plugs too while it's out of the car. Due to space they're annoying to do in the car but can be done. Of all the EJ's I've ever done I've only ever done one late 90's (98) that didn't need any pulleys replaced. All the rest had at least one pulley that was noisy or free spinning and needed replaced. I would at least test them all. Also keep in mind these later style tensioners on this motor are less reliable than the old style, so significant wetness at the seal means replace it. Reseal oil pump, tigthen the backing plate screws with thread locker, cam seals. At least inspect them - if they're completely dry you can leave them. Although I don't think I've pulled an EJ oil pump yet that hasn't had a loose backing plate screw - but that also tells me it's not all that dangerous since it's so common. All of this is covered in other threads too, a search would answer all of this.

SVX is the only car that comes with it. To put it in any other car will require swapping electronics, wiring harness, computer, or building a stand alone to accomodate it.

replace any seals that are wet, they'll be prone to leaking. seals are cheap and easily replaced with everything a part anyway really.