idosubaru

the prying would be bewteen the crank pulley and the bolt head most likely. that's the ideal case, so should'nt have to mess with the plastic covers unless you'd want to pry on the pulley. but i'd look to get the pry bar right under the bolt head which resides againt the pulley, no harm on the plastic covers there.

really? why don't they show up in parts catalogs, i was searching and they never showed 200SX in the early 90's catalogs? grrr...i was hoping this would be easy!

oh yes, prying on the head while turning can definitely work. so it came out a little bit at least? if that's the case you can try screwing it back in, then back out, back in and then back out...sometimes that will free it up as well. but at this point the easiest, best and quickest method is definitely prying on it.

okay i edited my post...but you did say that "people have responded" right after i said "they didn't". that's suggestive of being misleading, it doesn't matter, it just gets confusing when it's dead wrong information floating around all over multiple threads....including this: you said twice "you have the only one that works". that is completely not true. you know for a fact that someone else on here has one with resistors and gizmo's in it to prevent the CEL from coming on, yo'uve conversed with that guy....i don't get it, am i confused? and...dima has one, thunder has one, (and like me they have had theirs for years like myself, they didn't just recently jump on the bandwagon on this one) and others that i can not recall....how can you repeatedly keep saying i'm the only one? over and over i'm trying to dispel the same incorrect information.

wow, someone beat that thing to crap to strip it. sounds like a complete pain the rear to me. i only have suggestions: heat the bolt, try tightening it, try air tools, try the "starter method" in hopes that does something? if you get it out, the crank may or may not (never checked) be tapped deeper than the crank pulley bolt, so a longer bolt may work. that is true on most bolt holes in the engine...but the crank pulley i do not know. if you remove the covers the timing belt may be replaceable without removing the crank. but then you'd still want a way to lock the crank bolt solid. was the car running like this?

nipper suggests differently: i respond with a link, where like i said, no response:

you're going in circles, this is the same issue that has been addressed time and time again. there can't be a solution to something that isn't a problem. all of the "you'll screw up your trans" responses are from people that have not done the mod. in another thread (or this one, i can't recall?) i asked for anyone to please post that has actually had a trans issue that wasn't user related. no response and no response on here either. build any controller you want, but people will still argue that anything but the stock TCU is the only way to not destroy your transmission. and it is to the extent that it eliminates some possibilities of user error.

this probably doesn't matter, but what i was looking through showed the 200SX didn't show up until 1995. the 2.0, 1.6, SX, and SX-SE all shared the same rear caliper part numbers from multiple places i searched, so that makes it easy. but they were all 1995-1999 (all identical), no 200SX available prior to 1995. none of the local stores carry them in stock, so i can't easily compare to the sets i have lying around. i guess you meant 1995 as being "early"? these are easy to find, not hard at all and widely available. thanks a ton dave, i've already go the larger calipers for my XT6, just need a set of these so i can put them on.

gotcha. so the only difference in that 1985-1987 part number is the dowel pin, didn't WJM order some sprockets to verify? to finally get to the title of this thread "The Truth" we need to see that those two different part numbers are actually same, except for the dowel pin.

it's a solid car, what do you mean "what to look for in this body style", like what interior improvements or.....something else? check for torque bind, change the ATF when you get the vehicle and it should be golden. the HG and TB issues we have just mentioned are well covered on this forum, use the search button to look up further info if you'd like.

those parts references were confusing, maybe WJM or subyluvr can clarify? i didn't seen any references past 1990 on the one screen - why not?

no

few 20 year old vehicles come with receipts, or all 2 decades worth. most low mileage cars 100k 20 year old vehicles leak badly in my experience, so it wouldn't surprise me if someone messed with it before. mileage and receipts do not gaurantee that noone has ever worked on it before. i was in a 108,xxx mile EA82 last week that had leaks. (no receipts by the way). i went in there to replace everything and someone had certainly been in there before. they smeared RTV all over the face of the cam and crank seals??? that was funny.

everything nipper said. trans fluid should be checked immediately. the shift linkages/gear selector switch on the passengers side of the transmission should be checked as well. does the transmission light ever blink at start up? if so, get the codes after checking the fluid first.

this was my fault, i wasn't explaining it right. it is so simple that i was trying to convince you to just go look. had you went to the store and looked at a switch of the type posted above it would have clarified everything just like that picture did.

i'll work on that

these guys have one in North Carolina with 100,000 miles for $550: 1-800-617-5460 but i'm not 100% sure what vehicle you have either.

what is the mileage and what exactly do you mean by "slop"? unless something very, very unusual happened, the mechanic did not touch your diff oil while replacing the cv axle. and it is not likely that all of your fluid came out if the stub axle came out with the cv axle. they will take any and every opportunity they can to alleviate themselves of warranty work. they don't make money by giving away as many parts and as much labor as possible. they're looking at a number of possibilities and telling you the ones that don't require warranty work on their end and neglecting to tell you other possibilities. if the car is still driveable, i'd want to refill the front diff oil and keep an eye on the fluid level. if it's loosing fluid then they're theory is wrong and i'm right that they're trying to avoid warranty work. i believe the diff oil can leak internally into the transmission, maybe someone else can verify this. $4,000 is high, i'd never pay that, particularly to that shop if they're not wiling to see if it's leaking somewhere. yards carry these transmissions used with low miles and a warrany for $500-$1,000 and shops will install them for $500 tops. $1,500 and you should be on your way.

a picture is worth.....a billion words when i don't know the actual terms! you guys are no fun, you spoiled the circus act of my weak electrical vocab.

i see what you're saying. i didn't necessarily understand all of the switch options either. do what i did. go to a store - i went to a radio shack, and ask them what switch will work for what you're trying to do. actually just by looking at the different switches it should be obvious how to do it. it made a whole lot more sense when i went to the store, looked at what they were, read the packaging. you can probably find it on-line. it's definitely very easy, nothing hard or difficult about it.

0.871 fifth gear, that's the same as some of the older EA series vehicles had. sneaky soob guys. i don't need car buying advice. i can buy subaru's much cheaper than civics and honda's don't have an EJ22 in them, which is what i want. if you buy the car, and retrofit an EJ22 in it for me, or pay all the costs, or pay for me to quit my work, quit my business and go to school to learn how to work on honda's then i'll consider a civic. do i need to keep going?

sorry i don't know all the terms for switches. it only needs to be a "on-off" two position switch. at one position...everything is normal, stock so to speak. in the other position mine has two receptacles for two circuits - i use one for the light and one for the duty C. to say it another way it has 4 "prongs" in one position. but they are not "connected" so to speak. 2 for one circuit, 2 for another. hope that helps. radio shack.

the fifth gear ratio will make a big difference too right? maybe all the internals of the FWD MT are similar or identical? i know i've seen a chart before of manual trans gear ratios but i can't find it.

This will be a dedicated road trip vehicle, built for gas mileage. It was going to be an XT, but I changed my mind. Since I have two AWD soobs that I can drive at any time, this one can be a summer only FWD vehicle. I have a 1998 Legacy GT sedan and I'll be installing a FWD transmission in it. Which FWD manual trans would be best for gas mileage in the EJ series vehicles, or does it matter? Is 1995 the latest FWD transmissions subaru offered? What kind of RPM's do these FWD trans pull at say 75 mph? Mine is currently AWD.

you have it exactly right - break that wire and you are "locked". un-break it and youre back to stock configuration with the TCU in control. if you want a light, you'll have to run a power and ground wire to get a light to come on when in the "locked" position. that is what i did. in the "locked" position, the circuit is broken and an indicator light comes on, and for that light you'll need power and ground obviously. but you can do whatever you want...wire a light, alarm, buzzer, radio, horn, siren, timer, computer...whatever you want to come on whenever you want, when it's "locked" or "unlocked", that is all entirely up to you and is not directly related to this mod at all.