idosubaru

tighten the belt?

used hubs are an option as well, the failure rates of bearings on your vehicle are low enough that a used hub would be an option if you could find one low mileage and cheap. used hubs can be found for $25. rear EJ hubs are vague in my mind, but they shouldn't be hard at all to replace and you definitely won't need any special tools. if rust is an issue at all, hit all the bolts you can see with PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench (WD40 is not an acceptable alternative to those two). do that as many times as you can the days prior to the work and you should be golden. particular the one really long bolt that goes front to back at the base of the hub, i've had them rusted in pretty good to the point of shearing off.

that's awesome, good to know if it ever comes to that. i was going to replace mine years ago when i had the transmission out as "preventative maintenance" so to speak. some well advised soob experts i know (from the boards) mentioned how important the tightening was to "setting the gear backlash"..or something to that affect. so i didn't do it. still have the brand new seals. good to know you did it without issue.

might want to consider doing the EJ25 swap first. doing the aftermarket ECU install on the EA82 and then doing the swap sounds like an extra unneeded step. then you avoid the risk of buying the ECU and never getting to the EJ25 thing.

what do you mean by "blow an axle"? if it's just the boot, ignore it. i've put 50,000 miles on a broken boot, clicking axle. the original soob axles are tough, i drive them all the time for many miles broken. they're more reliable than new ones you buy at the store. the absolutely only functional reasons to replace them are to avoid grease splatter and if your state has annoying inspection requirements. other than that, if finances are an issue there's no reason to replace them. now if it actually blew to pieces, then my guess it was replaced with a store bought axle, it's not that uncommon for new ones to explode, i've had it happen before and others have as well. the 20 year old original soob axles never fail...well they do, but ignoring the off-road guys it's very rare.

having been the victim of new axles exploding weeks after installing, i wouldn't recommend them for someone who plans on keeping the car awhile. do a search and you'll fine a number of instances of new axles failing. i don't recall the manufacturer of the one i had though. i would leave the broken boot axle on there before replacing it with a "new" one unless it's a Subaru axle or MWE in colorado. i've put 50,000 miles on broken boot, clicking, stock, 20 year old soob axles before and they never break. search the forums here and you'll see a number of new axles failing.

wow, that's the first i've ever heard of that. some knowledgeable subaru folks have told me not to mess with those seals unless absolutely necessary. the torque on that collar sets the loading on the bearings and can cause major issues. i would read up and do a search on this a little bit, not that i don't believe mike, but i've heard this is something you want to make sure you're doing correctly. those collars can be very tight to break loose. if i were doing it, i'd be sure to mark and carefully count how many turns it takes to get off and try to install it back in the same position....same number of turns and back to the position where i marked it...and then based on what others say, maybe another 45 degrees for good measure. i'd keep an eye on the fluid level, if it's just seeping out and not loosing anything i wouldn't worry about it. could it just be seepage over 20 years or do you think you're actually loosing a significant amount of fluid?

on the XT6 there's a ground wire going from the coil to the front drivers side of the engine. i don't know how an 86 EA82 is set up but i'd imagine there's a similar single wire ground wire going somewhere from the coil....is that connected? this isn't that whacked out carb/ECU weird combo engine is it?

i just edited my last post, check my more detailed revisions if you were constantly monitoring this thread.

no spark where? at the plugs or out of the ignition coil? first step is to determine that. if there's spark from the coil but not at the plugs then your problem is with the distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires or spark plugs. if there's no spark out of the coil then there are a number of possibilities that have increasing levels of difficult to figure out. first i'd swap in another coil and/or FET resistor (the little thingy attached to the coil bracket that bolts and grounds to the strut tower underneath the coil). this FET needs to be grounded well, make sure the bolt is in place and no funny business with the metal there..paint or rust issues?any other recent issues or work done? or the car was fine and then bam...no spark? what engine/vehicle? carb, FI....etc?

wow, a quart every 50 miles, that's insane. if it's leaking that bad it seems like a leak down test should show easily where it's going. i second the question about how you know about the cylinder wall scratching. how many miles, any recent work or overheating? any prior head gasket issues?

in this case the market will not dictate what you can sell the car for. luck and timing will, there's no way we can help you decide how much it's worth. to get top dollar you would need to find someone local or the unlikely far away person that REALLY wants one and can't find it, that wants to fix this car up and make it what they want. most people that are capable of doing that kind of work also know they can find one for a couple hundred or less...or free and fix it. but in the rare even that you find someone who knows and wants a justy, you might get top dollar. more than likely that will take awhile to come across someone like that. this forum is a good place to start - place an ad with pictures in the for sale section. the good thing is that there is considerable subaru interest on this board, the bad thing is that skilled soob people can typically pick up cars for nowhere near top-dollar, which is what anyone desires when selling a car.

never seen that one before. interesting. do you know the brand of the water pump? if it was leaking out of the metal pipe where the o-ring is, that is replaceable without removing anything....all that timing belt, water pump removal is unnecessary to replace that o-ring. now, i'm a huge fan of having a new water pump though, so i totally understand installing a new one when you feel like. cheap and easy.

bell housing access hole under intake on top, passengers side. like they said, you want to make sure the torque converter is fully seated before bolting the engine in place. it's very tricky because the last 1/4 - 1/8" are where it hangs up, so visually it looks like it's in...but it's still got a tad to go. lots of posts on this, but gradually pull out and push in with very tiny movements until you feel/hear it click into place. the FSM is nice here, it shows a diagram with measurements. if the bellhousing/torque converter bolt holes aren't all coming together...do not use the engine to trans bolts to pull it in the rest of the way, you'll trash the transmission. i disagree that you'll get 30 miles like the other poster mentioned, you'd be very lucky to get the car moving once the oil pump is damaged.

make sure you get the new Subaru gaskets. i wouldn't go aftermarket on these.

just trying to stick to the facts before this turns into the other threads. i appologize if that was worded poorly. this is certainly a mod that should be done with caution but for those that may need it, which may be very few people, it is awesome. i've seen the 1-2 shift mentoined before, none of the auto trans subaru's i've ever driven in do it. now, i'm not saying first and second gear do not change the shift characteristics...it may somehow, but it's nowhere near the no-slip traction control that the duty C mod provides. either it's available in other models that i haven't driven or this information is incorrect...or more likely it's interpretted incorrectly from the owners manual or FSM.

it doesn't matter if you start the car with the switch ON. yes, the trans light will blink...but so what, you know why it's blinking. if you really think you have a transmission code, just quit using the switch (you won't use it that often anyway)....sooooo...all that to say you'll know when it's a "real" code or not, it doesn't hurt anything, the light flashes at start up and then goes away, it doesn't even stay on. so other than 16 blips of light, there's really no reason to worry about a way of preventing it or how to use it and prevent that light from blinking. the light blinking is entirely benign. remember, you'll rarely use this switch in a daily driver, so you'll know if the light is blinking "for real" or not. can you edit that post? i posted numerous times asking for anyone that actually had a trans failure due to this switch. not one person responded to multiple requests, so this information is purely fabricated to this point (not accusing you, just stating a fact). Andy was the only one with issues and he LEFT IT ON. that doesn't count. if someone tows an AWD car on a dolly, you don't say subaru AWD transmissions are junk...it was a mistake. noone has damaged a trans with proper usage...or they haven't responded. please edit your post or provide a link to this information, this confuses people and will only start a repeat thread of the numerous threads already out there. it should be mentioned...this mod isn't for everyone, but it is for me and is very useful. i've done it, years ago, used it many times and haven't had any issues. it's not a toy, shouldn't be used as a toy and should be done right. the switch should be hidden so that it can't be accidentally engaged and i suggest an indicator light in prominent view (i have one) that comes on with the switch, so you know it's on. it's a nice thought on an XT6 to use the DIFF LOCK switch from a manual trans..it'd look alll stock and sweet...but it's a bad idea because it's too easy to accidentally engage so i haven't done it.

this is on the loyale turbo in your profile or something else? being a later model turbo i think you have coolant and oil lines going to your turbo, they could be mixing there at the turbo. i'm not very familiar with turbo's, but they can blow seals and leak oil and coolant and i'm guessing it could mix? sounds like headgaskets though, have you tried a compression test?

one way to sort of see this visually is just to remove the intake hose and watch the butterfly plate. when you let off the foot pedal/throttle cable, it closes the throttle plate completely and the engine is forced to run on the IAC or whatever your idle air control system is composed of. less air = less fuel.

the same harness connector, interesting. that's a good one to know!

i have a transmission that may be of use to you. i'll send you a PM. feel free to contact me via PM or email.

get one with a warranty. you could try and have yours rebuilt, but i wouldn't go that route unless there's a trusted transmission specialist in town. sometimes manual trans rebuilds are actually economical (rather than auto trans rebuilds, which rarely are). but i'd trust a used transmission more than an unknown mechanic anyday....that's personal preference of course. a warranty is a good thing. if it's fine when you first install it and you give it fresh fluids, it should be fine. subaru transmissions are fairly robust and reliabke, even the automatics i'm comfortable installing used units in, but it is inherently more risky than a brand new unit, but that's why it's cheaper too. you could try posting on the boards here or calling some yards, it's nice to get one out of wrecked vehicle, that way you know the car was totalled and not sent to the yards for a bad transmission.

bulls can top that weight by a couple hundred pounds, the cows you saw won't usually top 500 or 600 pounds. but regardless, big and not a nice thing around highways. i like the keeping the antler hole idea, that's awesome.

are you verifying a timing belt failure by doing a compression test? you sound unsure "it looks like". you wouldn't have any compression on any cylinders if the timing belt broke. or did you install a new belt and get those compression readings? my friend has repaired two broken timing belt 2.5's and said he only need to replace a couple valves, the heads were otherwise fine. does it have the original headgaskets on it? if so then i'd probably plan on replacing both headgaskets if you're going that far anyway. make sure none of the tensioner pulleys are rough or noisy, they can cause the belts to fail.

if you're tempted to replacde the rear main seal, make sure you get it right. for some reason there have been multiple accounts of new rear main seals blowing out shortly after installation. and since the engine has to come out, it's one thing you do'nt want to jack up. that being said...for some reason the rear main seal on subaru's rarely fails. it's the one seal that if you weren't going to replace it, i wouldn't make a big deal about it.