idosubaru

settle with the insurance company as quickly as possible. if you settle and they find the car....the car is their's. they essentially "buy" it from you when you settle with them. so settle quickly. if it turns up before you finalize settlement then you have to deal with that. if you settle and they find the car, you can buy it back from them really cheap too if that's an option for you.

i guess this is EA81 which i know nothing about. but water under the distributor would be something to consider as well.

i doubt the coolant directly caused the converter issues unless a ton of it just blasted the honeycomb internally. but normally coolant doesn't ruin a converter. i've done a number of headgasket jobs that had coolant all in the exhaust on subaru's and other makes and never had one have any cat issues. on the intake gasket, sucking coolant in the combustion chamber certainly isn't a good thing. i'd look to replace that immediately. it isn't too bad of a job really, the entire intake assembly unbolts and lifts off of the engine block. the most annoying part is getting the old gasket material off. be sure to cover the intake runners with rags so the debris from the old gaskets doesn't fall down in there. and drain the coolant before hand so it doesn't spill all over the engine when you lift it off. other than that, unbolt intake, lift it up and have a 2x4 to hold it up and out of the way, install new gaskets and bolt it back down. 6 bolts in all, 3 on each side. might need to swing away or remove the p/s pump and/or alternator as well.

here's the easiest way to remove a stuck bolt. lay a nut on top of the bolt and weld it onto the remaining stud. yes it's tricky depending on space, but it works well and saves time. had you not bunged it up and reduced it's length this should have worked. NEVER USE EZ OUTS. they suck for this vary reason. all dozen...you'd think i'd learn....have broken. they should be illegal. do not try another one, it will do the same unless you're really lucky. i think the success rate of EZ outs is about 10 percent. and those 10 percent probably would have come out with vice grips or something. drill it out. once you drill down half way or so it will likely be enough to finally slide the thermostat housing up off the remaining stud. at that point, you should have enough to weld a nut to. then you can use a socket wrench on the nut. otherwise drill it out and helicoil if you can't weld.

i'm almost positive mine is the v-belt type. came off an RX. i'll double check and mail it to you. email or PM your mailing address and i'll have it in the mail tomorrow.

replace the axle and you'll be golden. and don't keep driving it like that, sounds like it's about to go. your weird trans shifting is probably just vaccuum or governor related...i'm not well versed on the 3AT but likely you can resolve that issue with some searching on this board. what is an "accel" anyway. never seen that one mentioned before. is that a 3AT only part that i don't know about?

very strange indeed. any chance you can list recent work done to the car? often times something like this is traceable to something that was worked on previously. i'd try removing ALL the fuses in the fuse box. see if it blows. then insert them one at a time and keep testing until you find what circuit is causing it. that will narrow it down alot at least. on older generation i've seen shorted wires above the gas pedal. there's a wiring connector there that will short out and cause issues. never heard/seen of this on the newer gen but i would look there as a quick check. i attribute it mostly to manual trans cars in the north......snow sticks to your feet and if any gets on the connector and shorts it out over time it'll heat up the connector and cause issues. but it happens on auto's too. usually strange lighting issues before fuses start blowing.

ran across this today while searching old threads: they repair/rebuild distributors. http://www.philbingroup.com/rebuilt/distributors.htm

thanks for the suggestions, i'm beat on this one and the wife is telling me to just buy an impreza...NOOO!!!!! i'm too stubborn! the fuel pump relay clicks and the fuel pump cycles properly in diagnostic mode every 1.5 seconds and i have good fuel pressure at the engine. the motor runs with the XT6 ECu or with the one ECU and a hard wired fuel pump - so the fuel pressure regulator should be good i guess though i don' t know how that works. anyway....seems to me the fuel system is good...definitely smells like it's running way rich though, but maybe that's just the exhaust gasket leak at the converter. boost switch i think i left it connect...is this the same as the Waste Gate Solenoid? i have that connected but no lines connected to it since i has no turbo. someone told me that should be fine. i think i tried it unconnnected and no difference, but i'll try again. although maybe the boost pressure switch is difference, above the WGDS, i have the disconnected i think. it is a MAF sensor and the NA and turbo ones i have are identical in part number, but i'll double check that tonight. now...the vacuum lines i'm sure are ALL jacked up. i have the charcoal canister lines all exposed and only the 4WD switch getting vaccuum. mabye i'm missing one that should be connected to the purge solenoid or AAV, but i don't know where they go or are routed. if these can affect starting then that's my issue. but they start and idle on the XT6 ECU??? i'm getting tired of posting this...too much info and details, getting confused......head hurting....blurry vision....

turn the wheel lock to lock a number of times then refill. check again after driving awhile and refill. edit....grrrr posting while you were....same thing....

cool thanks! i'll test it for kicks with the meter and then wire the positive terminal to the relay. did you wire it with no relays or fuses in place? i'm too scared too now, but wondering if you did it.

on man, don't suggest this. i did this and the car ran GREAT with that ECU. except it wouldn't idle. i wired the fuel pump directly alright with a switch in my center console. a couple days later i was near death when the interior carpet caught fire, filled the cabin with smoke and i'm trying to figure out which position is on/off on the switch....bad news that was. finally smarted up and drifted it back into the field away from my house and barn!!! ripped the wires out by hand and dumped water everywhere. no fire. i drew up a wiring system with a fuse and relay which im' going to put together tonight. trying to think of a good option for switching the relay....you say the ignition coil? should i put the fuse on the POSITIVE battery cable and the relay on the Negative ground wire of the fuel pump? i figured on doing this, then trying to figure out the idle.....then go from there. all the details are confusing the CRAP out of me....some ECU's only fuel no spark. some spark and no fuel...and the 4 cylinder car only runs on a 6 cylinder ECU....i don't even know what tail to chase anymore. i'm going to persure the fuel pump hard wire again, that will at least get the car driveable for now until i can get some ECU's tested. i'll search for some wiring info, i'm not a wiring expert and want to make sure i do this right.

double post.

furthermore - if you're looking to replace all the fluid best to drain it from the rack. remove the fittings at the bottom and turn the wheel lock to lock a few times, that will get most of it out. i believe there are drain plugs on the rack as well. i just pulled one and installed another a couple weeks ago and seem to recall a drain plug on them.

really no different than the EA82. it was an outside (#5, rear passengers side) that had issue, still have that head and block. major coolant leak due to head gasket, far from a typical leak, i was adding about a gallon a day. there was serious amount of material missing from the head where the gasket was leaking. localized heating i suppose. more parts increases risk, but ER27 still requires severe beating to render useless.

i ruined a piston pin and who knows what else in an ER27, found the piston clip in my oil pan - same pistons, rings, rods as an EA82. that was from adding coolant for 6 months that was ending up in the oil pan on a 220,000 mile motor. laziness kills. you get risky when you got extra motors lying around.

the XT6 ECU starts and runs the car fine in first and second gear so i think the connections, power and fuses are all fine. but who knows at this point??? i like the idea of posting pictures. i'll snap some pics of my current vacuum hose routing and of the AAV and purge control solenoid and see. these shouldn't interfere with creating spark, so i agree with what you're saying about them not affecting starting. thanks for keeping me straight...i'm starting to loose track of where i need to go from here.

have you already started? often oil ends up leaking and dripping down by the oil pan which makes it look like an oil pan leak when it's really something else like valve covers, rear main, cam seal, etc. on the older gen subaru's you have to lift the engine a few inches to get to those bolts. very annoying. unbolt motor mounts...trans mounts and push the engine up to gain clearance. haven't done a 2.2 but i've pulled them and think this might be similiar. someone will clarify.

very odd, never heard of that happening before. if you can find someone willing to pull the stub out you can get a used stub clip. probably won't do that on a good trans but you can try. you can tell them you'll bring back one when you get the new ones in if you're in a time squeeze!

i have a non-turbo XT that won't start. three different ECU's, one won't run the fuel pump, the other two no spark. no codes. my intake/vaccuum set up is marginal at best. can the intake/vaccumm lines cause a no start or no- spark condition? the purge control solenoid and AAV, anyone know if they can cause these problems if they aren't hooked up right? i get the same thing if they are plugged in or not. pretty sure the vacuum connections to them might be incorrect. if anyone can tell me where the input/output to these is routed that would be great.

i have a pulley from an EA82T if that helps, maybe all the P/S pulleys are the same? only problem is that it is cracked in one small spot. you could bend it back, file if needed and be good to go. the grooves the belt rides in are fine, the crack is along the outer edge. it's free! it's a two belt pulley off a 1988 EA82T (either an XT Turbo or RX, i can't recall which one it came off of, but they are the same so that doesn't matter). PM or email your address if you want it.

off the top of my head i don't know. except to say it sounds more like an electrical contact issues if it's temp related - which would lead me to believe the CTS (coolant temperature sensor) is to blame. just pull the wiring connector to it and look at the contacts. if you see any greenish or otherwise dirty contacts on the sensor or the connector then that is likely your issues. that would be a code 21 i think...but i'm not sure about that. don't replace the sensor, that's only a temporary fix and not worth the money when the problem will come right back anyway. check the codes and let us know. only take about 20 seconds to pop the trunk and read the flashing lights. we can help you track down the code if you count the flashes.

my parents tried to have one repaired that was on the car and it didn't work. it still spread on an existing windshield. that's only one experience so doesn't mean much but i'd get another windshield. did you try posting in the parts wanted forum, someone may have a parts car you can pull glass from. if it was an RX and you lived close i'd have one for you for free.

Got a "new" ECU in the mail yesterday and the car still won't start???? could i have ANOTHER bad ECU? that's the 3rd EA82 or EA82T ECU that won't work in the car. but an XT6 ECU works fine...except at over half throttle. XT turbo ECU - no spark RX ECU - no fuel newest ECU from an 88 XT i'm guessing has no spark. it won't start, fuel pump primes and no codes. what would cause an XT6 ECU to work fine but none of my 3 EA82's? bad luck, all the ECU's are bad? anyone have an MPFI EA82 they're willing to test my ECU's in if i ship one to you? plug and play no cost to you? i'd like to see if it's really the ECU or something else. i'm ordering another one today.....

i'll be in Akron in two weeks and have steering pump, rack and lines from a 1997 OBS with 103,000 miles in good shape. i can email photos. can sell you the parts and ship them. can probably install it for you as well while i'm there. PM or email if you're interested. i can also ask my wife's family, i believe they have a good mechanic they've dealt with for many years. i don't think he's cheap or anything, but i believe they've had good luck with him. Canton/Massillon area.