idosubaru

try checking the fluid level, replacing the filter and replacing the fluid. could be something that simple.

another good point is that at 144,000 it is highly unlikely it is the original belt, but in actuality who knows? anyway to get a straight answer from the previous owner for sure? double check which place he had it "replaced" at, maybe you called the wrong one? but - if it is the original belt i wouldn't drive it any further than your mechanic. i would think an inspection like i mentioned earlier would possible show if it had 144,000 miles on it, it seems it would look pretty ragged.

it is risky to run on an unknown timing belt. the risk is a high end risk too because this is an interference motor, so breakage could result in serious engine damage. before the trip i would at least pull the timing belt covers and look at the timing belt. the side covers take all off 3 minutes to remove and inspect. well worth the 5 minutes to look at the belt and make sure it's not cracking or glazed over. that's alot of money, but my cousin was quoted $699 from the dealer for the timing belt change i don't think that included the water pump, but maybe it did i don't recall exactly. she paid me for parts and i did it for free. make sure they inspect the pulleys as well, if a pulley is old and seizes it will break the belt no matter how new or old it is. then you're back right where you started, but worse. i replaced my cousins pulley. at your mileage the cogged pulley should almost definitely be replaced, they are typically the first to show signs of wear.

be sure to look at or take a picture of the cable set-up on the pedal, i recall installing mine incorrectly first time i did it. had to take it off and do it again.

what kind of mileage are you getting, i'm looking into this same transmission - except FWD EA82, but i think the same ratio. did mileage go up?

throw this in the old generation forum, lots of Brat owners there that won't see it here.

i doubt new plugs will help. are you sure it's recommended to use 87? i figure it is, just checking. it's not a turbo 2.5? some states have different regulations for gas in the winter to reduce pollution, might have better luck in the summer if VA does the same.

the 190,000 isn't necessarily what worries me but the 2.5 is. you never know with the head gasket. if that doesn't bother you then get it. at 200,000 another important issue is with timing belt pulleys. they have bearings and bearings don't last forever. if one bearing fails the belt and motor will be severly damaged. so a timing belt only change is nice but doesnt' provide what i consider reliability (but everyones definition is different). the pulleys should at the minimum be checked, i would address them all if it was my car. the water pump as well should be replaced as it is driven by the timing belt as well and overheating is a terrible thing for head gaskets. if you're willing to live with the 2.5 head gasket possibilities, this sounds like a good deal even if you pay to have the timing belt stuff addressed afterwards. maybe they replace the timing belts and you offer to pay for new pulleys and water pump? they'll be 'right there' when they replace the belt anyway, only takes a minute to replace the pulleys. it won't start falling apart at that mileage, but wheel bearings, water pumps, alternators, starters, auto trans, calipers don't last forever on any vehicle. with the exception of the auto trans these are all minor in my oppinion.

ha ha, i know you're fired up about this but that was funny. i'd be fired up too. wow that much rust? i thought that was a northeast thing, that sucks if it's that bad. do seperate threads for the codes/MAP sensors someone on the board will probably offer up some simple ideas. i'm thinking hose/PCV/vaccuum related as well. sounds like it's been all downhill, i'd be seriously jacked up too.

engine - you speaking of the old one? CV joints - forget those, they won't cause any issues any time soon. boots cracked, are they clicking yet? i've gone 50,000+ miles with them clicking around turns. the OEM subaru axles are very durable. wheel bearings - front or rear? CEL's - which ones? starter? - is it not starting?

i think i'd first replace the spark pack with a used one for $25. if it's a cylinder mis-fire then first isolate that cylinder - what are cyilnder dedicated items - plug, wires, spark pack and injectors. not gas, that would show up elsewhere, that's crazy talk. cylinder mis-fires on these EJ motors are typically ignition related. are the spark plug wires Subaru OEM wires? if you had an independent mechanic replace the wires, there's a good chance they are not subaru wires. get subaru wires and NGK spark plugs. these 2.2 and 2.5 motors are sensitive to having perfect ignitions. plugs - wires need to be OEM and carefully installed. they are easy to check and replace, so start there. you can even swap the bad cylinder plug and wire with ones from a good cylinder. if the error code "moves" or changes to that other cylinder then you know the plug or wire is bad. that you've replaced the wires twice is the reason i said i'd replace the spark pack first. but make sure they are OEM wires.

honda's and toyota's are excellent vehicles, i highly recommend them often to friends/coworkers. but....the dealers and service of these vehicles is no different than subaru. some are great, some hose everyone. to think another manufacturer is a gauranteed source of 100% warranty coverage and outstanding dealership service on any mechanical problem is wishful thinking. overall from what i've seen there's little difference across manufacturers in the big picture. like i said, some are great, some hose people. your acura is a great choice, your either spent time researching which engine/trans to get or got lucky but you chose wisely. but there are plenty of other acura's that have transmission, paint and other common problems. if someone who bought a TL has transmission problems rules out all other Acura's to eternity because of that, they are reducing their choice of good vehicles to choose from (like the CL you have). research and good decisions can be made with any make, be it subaru, acura, honda, etc. knowledge is always a good thing. to blindly accept all products from any manufacturer as the best choice...or the other way 'round, is not in the best interest of someone looking for a reliable vehicle. good luck and have fun!

i've had none of that experience. if i did, i would get something else as my wife drives it. oil and brake pads, that's all it's consumed. friends and relatives with EJ's haven't had anything either. not all people you've talked to have bad experiences. the board is not a great place to look for praises, people come here for help. sort of analogous to going to the hospital and making the assumption that everyone in the US must be sickly.a good indicator is someone who isn't biased, someone who works on alot of different cars for instance. they see trends, not individual experiences. you got hosed by someone dumping a known bad car, no need to attribute to subaru what was done by someone else. you've now got a 2.2, a great motor. post your issues with it and go from there. plenty of 200,000 mile plus owners on this board, i think that's a good sign. hope the 2.2 treats you right or you score better on your next used car.

price depends if you go with cheap or subaru OEM gaskets. you're looking at $50 starting price for a gasket set. that doesn't include timing belts, water pump or oil pump seals. that can all be had for another $50 or more. head gasket job usually include milling the heads as well.

there is no need to pull the motor to do EA82 (or ER27) heads. besides the turbo (which you'll have to deal with no matter if you pull the engine or not), the EA82 head gaskets are cake. pulling the motor is a waste of time in my oppinion. all those hoses, cables, transmission lining up and wiring. much quicker with the motor in the car and cam/heads bolts are still accessible with air tools. i just pulled a motor and installed my JDM monday. lots of time pulling and installing that isn't necessary for just head gasket replacement.

i just did this last week on my JDM EA82 as well. i attach a drill to a 12mm socket and run the oil pump directly. then turn the motor over by hand after installing the timing belts to get things moving. i've actually turned the motor over by hand before and oil will come out of the oil pump. try turning the oil pump by hand, you can remove the filter first try to see if oil is actually coming out. using the starter is fairly common but i've never done it. follow directions above.

so the entire clutch cable is good it looks like based on your drawing? anyway to post a digital picture of it? if it's cable related, buy a new cable. if it's the arm that the pedal connects too then that is strange. has it failed yet or is it still useable? weld it.

if i convert my XT Turbo to 5 lug - i'll have this camber issue? i've swapped hubs, struts, axles, ball joints, control arms on my XT6's without ever getting an alignment and i've never had uneven tire wear or pulling so i'm not familiar with these kind of issues. will i get bad tire wear with this 2.5 degree camber issue you're mentioning on the XT Turbo?

spread the strut mounts apart with a power puller or whatever. that's what all the XT6 guys do to convert.

it's a justy, get someone to help you pick it up!

that is cracked up. ask them to move it? they got fork lifts right? and what's that, a double decker XT in the background! woo hoo!

cool, that's what i was thinking. i don't care where the front e-brake is now unless i'm missing something. i'll keep XT6 stuff and the front ebrake when i do the conversion as well.

97 and up 2.2's are interference engines, not sure it really matters what it's called. haven't heard that lingo used much on the new generation forum. you should replace it at that mileage or earlier. "kablooey", is relative but chances are high that $eriou$ internal damage could occur.

why is the front e-brake so dreaded, can't upgrade calipers or something more? impreza bearings are better than XT6, why is that? nice info in here, great job fellers'.

this comment needs to be edited. 1997 and later 2.2 engines are all interference engines. before that they are non-interference. i can't remember but 2.5's have a 105,000 mile timing belt and some 2.2's may have come with that from the factory as well. im' not sure, have to look into that one. but if the manual says 60,000, i would replace it immediately, not worth the risk in my oppinion. this is an excellent list if you'd like the car to last quite a long time. the idlers and rollers are not necessary, but excellent prevenative maintenance items, particularly on interference engines like this. some people replace the water pump ever other timing belt. but again, while you're in there it is a good idea to replace it, i would. you should have your timing belt changed at least by the recommended mileage, if not sooner. your 1999 2.2 is an interference motor, if the timing belt breaks you will most likely result in some level of damage, large or small to the pistons and valves. this is not to be taken lightly. i would replace it immediately. i did last summer in my 2.2 impreza with 60,000 miles.