idosubaru

1. maybe it's not the CV axle. 2. you should tell us the problems you're having and what is exactly is wrong. If it is the axle - used axles are $15-$30 all day long. look for a green inner housing (this indicated it's an OEM SUbaru axle). www.car-part.com You can use 2000-2004 legacy/outback axles, they have better, longer lasting, boots, and in some areas are easier to find than 90's stuff. Or you can simply reboot your existing axle if it's Subaru. If it's an aftermarket axle don't even bother rebooting it, just get a used Subaru axle.

That looks like more than normal. Replace if paying labor, consider replacing if not. I’d wonder what caused the wear, weak tensioner...? There’s hardly a reason to not replace it anyway. I mean I get it - it’s a $100 but drop in the bucket for the value you’re getting for another 100k. If you’re not paying labor and want to reuse it, inspect it after 30k-50k. Removing covers and belt alone and reinstalling can be done in under and hour. Might even be able to inspect without removing the belt? Tight area but maybe you could get a measurement to compare? I’ve done it in 45 minutes without hurrying. No big deal.

Buy a set of used heads and you’re done. Ive replaced valves, but they can be mind numbing if you dont have a spring compressor fit for EJ25s. the auto parts store loaner ones don’t work for all the valves due to side clearance. None of the three valve compressor tools I’ve used work or require exceptional work arounds and gobs of time. I built a crude tool to do them. If you don’t have a compressor good for EJ25s it’ll be a time sucking brouhaha.

yes. easy. you'll need the impreza exhaust as it's only a single port and the legacy is dual port, but it bolts right up. i'm not sure what you mean by wiring swap and intake swap but those aren't really an issue. in any event, they're nearly identical engines except for the 2.2 and 2.5 part and the single/dual exhaust difference. Put the 00 legacy drivers side cam and the crank trigger on the 00 impreza. Or verify that cam and crank have the same trigger marks. there are two styles and you need to have the one original to the car. they may be the same or they may not.

If the intake and exhaust aren’t bolted on yet....and carrier?...or if you just want to do it and check it out and verify installation/gasket, then maybe that makes it more enticing to do now. Otherwise, run it. Those head gaskets are installed dry but enough people put stuff on them that you’re likely to be fine.

pictures of the source of the leak are best. Can you post pics? Second hand info and descriptions of the oil leak path, rather than detailed focus on the source of the leak is often confusing. Need to verify the source. Look for the highest and most central indications of the leak. Where the oil falls down below isn’t nearly as helpful. The “overfill” is not the cause of the leak. People have freaked out about high oil level for decades and it never causes leaks. It’s even common to purposefully overfill without issues. If it was egregiously overfilled, maybe, but that doesn’t sound like the case here. online Subaru dealers have exploded view diagrams you cam compare to what you’re looking at as well to help identify leak sources. Or you can screen shot a diagram and circle where you think the leak is - but a picture is way better since oil leaks can Combe confusing if you haven’t diagnosed and repaired them before.

Test alt output. If it’s an aftermarket alternator they’re low grade or garbage. Starters and alternators are pointless waste of cash at the aftermarket Parts stores. subaru dealer has an $80 alt for that car.

This looks obvious - the battery is too low to start the car. 1. alternator or connections/wiring to battery. 2. Separating crank pulley 3. parasitic draw

It’s a specific product. Google it, you’ll see it. Very common, sold in almost all parts stores, Wal Marts, in the US and often used as throttle cleaner or gas treatment.

Could be anecdotal or related to something else - correlation doesn’t mean causation. Specific HLA noise is mentioned in the write up and should be verified/diagnosed, mentioned when discussing, and approached differently. The few I’ve seen like this have had very poor maintenance or significant engine issues in their history. verify there is one or two specific problematic HLAs and not all of them or random or changing. If it’s a specific HLA(s) then it needs replaced or try band aids and see how long they last. Band aid options: 1. change the oil. Change it more often. 2. use better oil (1 & 2 are not a bad idea given current owners may not know decades of history on the vehicle) 3. try additives, thicker oil, run ATF, and see what happens, there’s no “one size fits all” concoction

Probably rings. remove manifolds and check for oil past the guides.

Well done. Title is edited, good job. “t” word is still in the body and picture of first and following posts - maybe edit that out? There’s probably another word that’s less charged and more accurate. 6 months from payment to delivery, is fairly troubling on its own, though still circumstantial to a public audience.

I disagree with the OPs approach, assumptions and language - but I understand his perspective and expecting an apology seems over the top at this point. He doesn’t know what’s true or untrue but I think the title and language could be edited. ***To him it could appear that no resolution happened until this was escalated.*** Few of us would be impressed by someone taking something for 6 months and then only returning it once there was public pressure and they were “forced” to. I wouldn’t apologize to someone that needed “forced” to give my stuff back and couldn’t do it under their own accord for half a year. I’d say “thank you” and move on. Im not saying that’s what happened, but it could look like it to the OP. There’s no way to prove whats “true” or “untrue” with 100% one sided circumstantial evidence. I think we can help without trying to ascertain true or untrue. I think the OP should edit the language to reflect dissatisfaction over an anecdotal, complicated personal transaction and just state facts. The language used borders libel and slander for a complicated personal transaction with limited data. The OP could have chosen to arrange their own shipping or gotten the item themselves but chose to pay an individual and let them do all the work. There’s a “cost” to expecting people to do the bulk of heavy and difficult labor inexpensively. You found an inexpensive rare trans from a reputable person - do everything you can to work and get it. Fly out arrange shipping yourself...etc. (which I have done before). Too lazy or busy to do it? Then don’t be surprised when shipping cumbersome transmissions doesn’t go smoothly sometimes.

Yes. Bleed as normal. The FSM details a process for bleeding for ABS systems but it’s not necessary. It can take forever to bleed a system that’s been open that far. I’ve gone through 2 or 3 32 ounce bottles on systems requiring complete flushing rather than one or two corners.

look the parts up yourself online. Subaru OEM parts sites have exploded view diagrams showing all the parts. Ask for the parts manager or try a different dealer. Clearly the person you talked to just didn’t know how to look it up on a computer, or did and communication just didn’t go well. Or if you went in pounding your fist or being abrasive and condescending try being polite.

I’ve rebuilt a few totaled Subaru’s, many front impacts, and have one right now I’m working on. Swapping mechanicals to a better car seems much simpler. They’re much simpler when the engine/trans doesn’t get pushed back What pushed the engine back? lower motor mount or the radiator/fan getting smashed into it? Check the motor mounts and rear of the transmission. something had to give when that entire many hundred pound assembly slid back. I’d be mostly concerned about the transmission. If it slid back then the rear driveshaft got slammed into the rear extension housing unless something else gave way to absorb that movement.

"high mileage" is pointless. get any cheap on sale compatible ATF and it'll work fine.

Nah, that’s a good question you brought up, I’ve done it but could be misremembering. I have some but didn’t remember to check.

Don’t use additive. Change the fluid. Choose better ATF fluids or change methods, rather than additives for improvements. Ive done all three - multiple drain and fills, pull hose and dump fluid , and pull both hoses and submerge supply side in bucket of new fluid. It’s been awhile since I’ve done that last one, if it doesn’t suck the fluid just stop when the dumping line vacated and top off. take your pick. They all result in substantial amounts of fluid changed. If you’re so concerned that additives sound appealing then ditch that idea and go through the extra work of pulling hoses and dumping higher percentages of old fluid. And buy better ATF like Subaru’s new HP, amsoil, or some people like red line. That’ll be worth your time and money, the Lucas additive won’t be worth anything except placating some false sense of value and validating their marketing budgets. additives rarely have value for Subaru’s, there are a few exceptions, but this isn’t one of them. Those transmissions are robust, they just need good, new fluid.

Maybe I’m miss-remembering or there are diffent torque converters, but I thought the holes were lass through and went all the way through, leaving access from the back. I’ve done this on 2000+ EJs, If I’m wrong - I’ve always done this some way that was easy and it didn’t take long. definitely didn’t split blocks. Once it’s on the ground there has to be an easy way to get them out because I’ve never had an issue.

Yes. Exactly. I’ve never had a problem, been easy as pie every time. Right handed bit will be moving in the “unthreading” direction for the bolt. Use a smaller bit and it’ll probably back the bolt out. If you have an extractor this is one of the few times it may help. After drilling, let it cool down and try to unthread the bolt with an extractor - just really light don’t push or force it as extractors are hard but brittle. it’s all backwards so you’ll turn it “right” to loosen. but if not - drill it small and step up sizes until the shell of the bolt just backs out. Use right handed bits to drill so they’re backing the bolt out.

There’s a crosstek forum as well and that will be smaller than many but they often have threads that somewhat compile Real time pricing that people are paying.

Go get some prices now and see what they say and do for you in your given market. Get to know your dealers - the local market will vary considerably. around here you won’t get a good financial deal from the high volume dealer in town. The two other dealers 20-40 miles away often have far better pricing. Some cities see the opposite dynamic and have great high volume dealers that price well. Subaru sales and demand are high, Crosstek demand is high and the novelty of getting in line for that first of the given model year is a known viable monetizable commodity. And it’s winter and tax season. Very little is in your favor unless you live in a Subaru ghost town or get lucky timing/inventory/floor plan/volume/know someone...etc Toyota’s and Honda’s aren’t always easily talked down in price depending on many variables listed above. I’ve seen Toyota dealers with nearly no desire to budge on RAV4 pricing.

Drill the TC bolts from the backside.

I’ve seen those leak. But I’m sure they work fine plenty of times and if it does leak, it drips and you replace it just like any other old OEM plug or washer leak.