idosubaru

automatic or manual transmission? does it do it in all gears? forward and reverse? does the POWER light ever blink (if it's an automatic). how many miles? what kind of work has been done to it, clutch, timing belt, etc? does the car idle fine and rev fine in neutral? this sounds like a trans or clutch issue, but i don't really have enough info to do on right now. diagnosing over the internet is tricky, but there is enough knowledge/experience here to help with enough details.

i've never had problems swapping lifters out on a number of EA82 and ER27 motors. not that i try to, but i've never had a problem doing it and never had issue replacing stuck HLA's with used ones from another motor. no ticking issues for me, i'm surprised he's had issues with his. i've never heard of others having issue with this either until this post. i would not hesitate to do it again, i've probably done it on roughly 5 different motors.

plugs, wires, cap rotor, fuel filter, air filter. i'm surprised this thing ran that good if the gas is 7 months old? after the basic tune up, run it for a couple tanks of gas to see how it runs, if there is any major fluid loss, keeping an eye on the volt meter, temp and oil pressure before deciding what else to do to it. timing belts, water pump, oil pump reseal all at the same time. buy a new oil pump if you're planning on lots of miles. also repack or replace your timing pulley bearings, at least any that aren't tight (on this age soob i've yet to pull pulleys that are tight and full of new grease). for a reliable daily driver, trip maker get new pulleys or read my thread on how to repack the existing pulleys. replace the cam carrier seals and o-ring while the belts are off. replace thermostat. replace coolant with antifreeze and distilled water. and radiator caps. change other fluids, brake, trans, diff. inspect brake pads. i like replacing the battery terminal ends with new if they aren't in perfect shape. keeps your battery and alternator in tip top shape.

replace the timing belts, water pump, oil pump seals (easy) and any pulley bearings that are questionable as you won't be in there again for another 90,000 miles or more. use the Search button in the gray area up top, there is tons of information here about doing timing belts on a 2.2. it's easy. i've done fords, dodge and subarus and i think subaru's are much easy (never need a stupid pulley puller for the crank pulley for one thing). start learning the search function and you'll find all you need to know. there's a link to great information and endwrench website (subaru's own mechanics tips site). great info in all these places.

awesome, thanks dave. mine is a 87.5 XT Turbo (digidash) so hopefully mine has something to work with. probably doesn't even need to be exact, anything close should register. for instance if the gearing/sensor is a little off maybe the steering will stop at below 9 mph instead of 15, big deal. thanks!

it's a good idea to remove the tires and pull back the inner fender lining every year to clean out the crud. mud, leaves, dirt, debris get crammed in there and hold water against the metal. once it rusts that stuff falls out, gets washed away. i've seen inches of stuff packed in there before.

flush the fluid and go from there. if the this wasn't an issue before the brake job, i'd wonder what they did wrong.

if it's locked then i bet it's just jammed. turn it hard hard hard right while turning the key. not that the wheel will move any where, you're not trying to move it, just put enough pressure on it that the key will disengage it fully. if it would "move" the key would likely turn. i would try again to pull it hard right (very hard) and hard left (very hard) while trying to turn the key. not with the intention of moving the steering wheel, but applying lots of pressure while turning the key to disengage whatever mechanism locks the steering wheel. i don't know of anyway to disengage it without disassembling the steering column, but i do believe it'll come out with enough force applied and turning the key at the right time. eventually while your exerting force in one direction the key will turn and loosen the steering wheel. there is no point in trying to get freedom of movement from the steering wheel since that is what is causing your key to be "stuck". freeing the wheel essentially means freeing the key at this point.

the rear panels suck because i believe they aren't bolted on. they have to be cut and rewelded in place. do a search on rear fenders i posted a question awhile back about this, some good info on the site here.

i will have spare parts for sure, already do. i'll post whatever i figure out, that's for sure. it'll be a few months before i get to the p/s, i have a motor swap to do first. you just might have to remind me. i'm doing EA82 though so there's really nothing hard about that. the EA81's i'm not familiar with.

easy. spray penetrating oil (liquid wrench or pb blaster, not WD40) on the 12 mm bolts holding the axle to the rear diff and the two 17 mm bolts holding the center support to the bottom of the car. i'd spray a couple times the couple days before doing the job to get them loose. this is an easy job, only 6 bolts in total to replace the entire driveshaft. unbolt those 6 bolts and it comes out. the 4 12mm bolts on the driveshaft are not all accessible at the same time. you'll have to remove/loosen 2 or 3 of them, then rotate the driveshaft to get the other ones out. i usually jack the rear of the car up so i can spin a tire (which turns the driveshaft). or move the car just a few inches/feet so the other bolts spin into view. maybe you can try loosening some before you crawl up the ramp? or go half way up the ramp, loosen two then pull all the way up to loosen the others? of course being careful to jack stand the car and block the tires for safety. once the 6 bolts are off might have to tap where it mates to the rear diff with a hammer if it's stuck or doesn't want to come off. after 20 years and miles and rust sometimes they want to stick. have to wedge it around the exhaust, but i've gotten mine out without removing any exhaust parts on the XT6. be advised, trans fluid comes out easily when you pull the axle out of the trans. have a catch can ready, watch your eye balls and be sure to refill/check the level after you're done. not sure if you're just replacing one half or the entire thing, if it's just the front half with the carrier bearing then you remove the 4 bolts that bolt the rear half of the drive shaft to the front half. then remove the front half. either way 6 bolts in all to get it off. the only hard part about this job is that it's annoying working from under the car on your back, otherwise it's easy. wearing goggles is sometimes nice to keep crud from falling in your eyes/nose. the shaft into the tranny is sealed by the rear extension housing seal. be very careful pulling the old axle out and installing a new axle. it's easy to damage the seal if you're slopping the old axle around. be sure to check that seal after installing the new axle to make sure it wasn't damaged. replacing it with a new one isn't a bad idea if you're comfortable doing that sort of thing. but i've done plenty without replacing it as well.

shawn, jeep guys do use XT6 pumps. i'm going to be installing one in my XT Turbo. the jeep guys run them continuously as far as i know. i'm sure some have elaborate set-ups but for the most part they slap them in and go with constant duty cycle. i plan on going with a complete XT6 swap - power steering rack into my XT Turbo. the two issues are the speed sensor and steering column sensor (if you're trying to get the XT6 stock power steering computer to work with it), which i am trying to do. i already tested the steering column sensor and the system works without having that. if you sit at zero miles per hour for more than a couple seconds the steering pump will not operate. normally it will kick in again if you turn the steering wheel (the sensor turns the pump on). but without the sensor you won't have power steering if you stay below a certain speed...like 5-15 mph for more than a few seconds. i can live with that. or...if the column is easy enough to swap maybe i'll go that route. haven't had time to research the speed sensor, but i'd like to get that to work. if there's a way to get a speed signal to the P/S system i think it will work perfectly. if not i don't think the computer will ever cycle the pump on because it thinks you're not "moving". i have a couple XT6 parts cars and plan on stripping the wiring out and seeing how terrible the computer wiring is for the complete power steering swap. if i can do it, fine. if not i'll look to alternate methods. with all the extra parts i have i may try continuous running of the pump and resort to the computer if i have significant failure of the brushes or pump. i may be able to devise my own simple control too... what was your plans on controlling it?

be sure the steering wheel isn't sticking in the lock possition. if the steering wheel is locked (can't turn it much), then this is most likely the issue. yank the steering wheel very hard while trying to turn the key. try it multiple times right and left.

i wouldn't use super glue for engine purposes. i'm not sure why the superglue was needed. if it was only to hold the reinforced o-ring in place, the best solution for that is small dabs of high quality grease or engine assembly lube. any o-ring should be lubed with oil or grease before installation anyway, so best to cover it in grease, install and then put a small dab on top of it to hold it in place. if the issue is the cam case sealant, the proper way to avoid this is to use anaerobic sealant. if you use anaerobic sealant on the cam cases, that would prevent any glob issues as it washes away and disolves in the oil which is why it is recommended in the first place.

just a suggestion and something to look out for if you have more issues. doubtful it's a problem, but i've seen it before.

whatever you do, don't use a freaking bolt extractor, easy-out, those things SUCK. they break all the time and are even harder to get out if they're in deep. intake bolts suck really bad, i've had a ton of these break off. soak them with liquid wrench of PB Blaster (WD40 is not a good alternative). tap them with a hammer (to help break down some of the corrosion internally) and liberally spray them down for a number of days before attempting to remove them. they can be a real bear if you try to get them out without any preparation (even after that they can suck). here is the sure fire way to get it out. the best option i've found is to partially thread a nut onto the stud or lay it ontop of the stud and weld it to the stud. then use your wrench (after lots of penetrating oil). a few minutes of prep with spraying penetrant mentioned above and a very simple weld can save hours of wrestling with these things in alternate ways. if you can't weld, have someone do it for you. if you don't know anyone, find someone. this takes literally like 3 minutes to do and has worked every time. even better is that this method is the quickest and easiest that i've tried. take it from me and don't do anything but the above method. i've done this dozens of times and multiple different ways. there are other methods that may work, but can make your day painfully long too.

the short answer is that a distributor can test fine but still cause the car not to start. there is no definitive way to test a distributor, usually you can, but there are times when you can't (i've had it happen twice). long answer follows: i've had a distributor generate spark but not work properly. less than a month ago there was a thread about this and we went through all this before so if you're interested in that discussion do a search. mostly about the problem i'm about to talk about being "impossible". but to be quick i've had two distributors fail in different subaru's that would generate spark, even pass the FSM tests but still the car didnt' start. couldn't resolve the problem until i finally swapped the distributors and it started. both times it didn't fail while i was driving, i had taken the car off the road for a couple weeks/months for repair or swaps and the previously fine running vehicle and distributor failed to start the car. my guess is the crank angle sensor gets corroded or out of alignment somehow. that being said, there was no proper (practical) way to diagnose mine. i'm sure with some crazy computer/oscilloscope set up it would have shown up, but who's going to go through all that?

awesome, good to hear. if you're having multiple sensor issues, it is a good idea to check the wiring connector that plugs into the sensor. remove it and look at the contacts in the harness and the contacts on the sensor. corrossion can easily cause the sensors to have issues, particularly intermittent issues depending on the connectivity of the corroded connection. this is similar to a short and can generate heat as well. most likely the sensors went bad, but good to check the above scenario because new sensors will only temporarily fix the problem unless the harness was cleaned prior to installing the new sensor. replacing the sensor, in a very rough way, removes "half" of the corrossion while the remaining half stays in the connector and contaminates the new sensor sometime down the road.

every year? most states don't pay taxes after the initial purchase that i'm aware of. or are you speaking of insurance. no matter really...what options does it have, if you can provide specifics that the SE has that your LE doesn't, maybe they have to give? at least the insurance company should be able to make an adjustment if you provide them with proof it doesn't have those options. you're insuring something that isn't present there has to be a process for resolving that. i'd present the dealer and the salesman the scenario and see what they say. and write a letter to SOA. someone from http://www.xt6.net (subaru XT6 website) just wrote a letter to SOA and received a quick response. that is crazy, good luck with it.

this requires having a timing belt installed. i wouldn't do it this way, but it could work if the timing belt holds. i've had them rip and/or slip over the teeth on the cam. not ideal for an interference engine, though it's doubtful it would hurt anything i'm not keen on all that stress on the timing components maybe that's just a personal issue. on a manual trans you can put the car in gear and that will keep the motor from turning over (hopefully). it'll start moving if the bolts don't give. i use a socket extension, i don't trust a screwdriver not to break, but i don't know the quality of my screwdrivers! but i only do this to loosen the crank pulley bolt not the cam bolts.

definitely not for water/oil pump. remove those for the cam seals only yes, but i would refrain from the strap method and others... works sometimes, not others. if you do try it and it's not coming, don't force it. the best method i know of - if you remove the valve covers (really easy) there's a square notch on the camshaft that you can get a wrench around to keep the camshaft from spinning. this is the least risky method in my oppinion. i've damaged cam sprockets, cap carrier caps and timing covers trying other methods before i knew about the cam having the notched area on it. for some reason those cam sprocket bolts can be very hard to get off, never had any problems with older subaru's (which i've done more of), only the 2.2 liter motors. yes, use it. i would definitely install the new one now, it will be fine. forget which type you have, but i would extend/retract it a couple times to free it up and get any internal grease spread around. others here will be more certain, but 69 is too light in my oppinion. you're in luck though because the crank is iron so crank away, you won't strip the threads like in the rest of the block that's aluminum. i use a 1/2" drive and a 3 foot breaker bar and put alot of stank on it. i don't use a torque wrench here, i just crank the doodads out of it. like i said, it's iron and it won't strip...at least the 50 or so times i've done it it hasn't stripped. you don't want the crank pulley coming loose, be sure it's tight and then check it again before you start the car.

you can run without a thermostat but that's a band aid and not a permanent fix. is there any coolant loss? if you drive the car for awhile (can you do that without it overheating), does it loose any coolant? if there's coolant in the system and the overflow tank is bubbling then it could easily be a headgasket. if it's just straight water in there, then it's possible it's boiling and not really air bubbling. i'd do a compression test as it only takes a couple minutes.

i looked for the link as i used to have it, but erased it once i found this: http://www.mizpahprecision.com/pricing.htm they charge 4 bucks to clean and 5 bucks without any cores or something like that. super cheap. taking them apart is time consuming.

why not? i like them and am familiar from the dozen or so XT6's i've owned. i have spare parts and keeping the sruts clean and rust free i've never had one fail. thanks guys. i'll use XT6 control arms that way it's the same as my XT6's.

on the XT6 i unbolt the top 3 strut mounting bolts and that gives it enough room to get the axle out. it's tight, but that's the easiest for me as those 3 bolts are never rusted and a pain to get off like the suspension bolts can be.