ShawnW

Park on a hill, start the car and squeeze the radiator hoses gently.

Did ya check out page 42 in the 85 FSM section 2-7? Theres a couple of diagrams there that you might be able to interpret. The thing I am seeing is that theres a control unit for this. I dont know what the control unit is though, if its the TCU or if theres an independent relay/control box just for starting like a neutral safety switch. Are the 85 ea82T cars using 4spd trannies or they still the 3AT with no TCU? These diagrams confuse me most of the time though.

Yes its a breather tube.

I second Mick's suggestion not to attempt turning the bolt on that Brat.

There is such a thing as an 89 Legacy but it too is AWD-- for US Models. Its the ugliest Legacy ever, looking like a Loyale because its bumpers are painted black not matching the color of the car and the steel wheels with center hubcaps like the old Loyale series had. It stands out as an 89 so badly its insane.

Can get you a complete column with airbag at work if you want. Otherwise you have to take a tamperproof torx bit and unscrew the airbag unit. The screws are hidden behind panels that are behind where the cruise control lever is and the empty blank on the opposite side.

Put a slanted radio console in from a 1980 model car that didnt have a tape deck option in it. Email me what color your interior is and I will try to find you one. The colors arent a perfect match to the interiors of the 84's but the look is still great.

How about a Bra for a 95 Legacy?

Its going to look sweet. Another vote for keep em.

Im going to make mine that way.

Me, new here. Ya just missed the Colorado Subaru meet recently. There will be another one though, I am hoping to put together a snow run.

Shake the rear axles and see if they clunk. Diff hanger bushings are also known to be noisy on these.

I had to retrieve a squirrel from the dash of my neighbors 2000 Impreza recently. It was alive and ANGRY. Fortunately it didnt chew anything up.

Home safe and tired. Brat has rolled over to 200k miles on this trip. Only real problem was caused by some bad gas we got at a Conoco/Loves Travel stop but once I topped off at the 1/2 tank mark the thing went like a bat outta hell again. Top speed, 99.8 MPH as measured by my GPS unit. Needle was too buried to use anything else! This thing runs like its got 20k on it.

Intake manifold is full of chunks from the exploding engine is my guess.

If you want to meet up call my cell at 303-641-7947 and leave a message. Leaving tonight going up to I-80 and then West. Returning late Sunday night.

Look under the dash for a button, some models have a switch.

They pretty old seals and mileage doesnt apply here when this much time has elapsed. I would expect them to leak.

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/subaru.html

It would seem that you may have a water pipe or intake manifold gasket leak, and a bad radiator. I recommend a leak down test on the engine and a radiator/cooling system pressure test be done to look for a coolant leak. Also pull the codes on the car to find out why the CEL is on.

The car isn't meant for drag racing or being launched. You will go thru transmissions and axles doing this.

Theres something to be said for walking out with them and being able to see what you are buying. If that is with the lug nuts and the tires are already dismounted OR they are decent tires thats probably quite fair.

Problem: If you leave the gas cap on with the Brat parked, the charcoal canister will fill with fuel and begin spilling it out the bottom of the canister. Vehicle is an 86 Brat that had an 84 Turbo conversion done on it. This is not mine but its a really well done conversion. The fuel tank and pump were both swapped over.

Timesert (fancy helicoils) the loose studs and check to make sure its not an aftermarket Y-Pipe as some of them have the flange thats flat and some have the tube that goes into the head that sticks up above the flange. In that case you need a donut and then possibly the flat flange gaskets in order to get a tight seal. www.timesert.com for timeserts.

Theres a retainer pin that you punch out with a 3/16" punch and hammer. One on each end of the axle. Then you slide the axle off the stub of the differential and the stub on the outer end. No internal parts in the differential need removed.