ShawnW

Why: Mainly because the int VR types are more readily available in yards and parts stores and you could put the XT6 higher amp alternator on if you wanted to.

Moving to the older gen forum for a better response.

Not a whole lot of USMB members from KS but lots in Colorado and you'd be a lot closer!

What do you want to know about them? Did you ask in the new gen forum?

Moving to the newer gen forum.

I sure dont see a problem with it being posted here! Congrats!

Here to end this arguement is an article that explains it much better than I do. http://popularmechanics.com/automotive/sub_care_sat/1999/3/right_coolant/ In summary, orange and green antifreezes CANNOT BE MIXED as the corrosion speed is increased GREATLY. Your mechanic is incorrect that the Orange caused it because honestly the green is as much to blame as the orange, as is the person that mixed them before. To change from orange to green you must do a full flush and have a radiator that is compatible with the Orange coolant. Neither Orange nor green is really much better than the other and Older Generation Subarus came with Green originally so unless you plan on a complete flush and a replacement radiator there isn't any good reason to use the more expensive coolant.

There was one at Wingsstuff in Denver recently, 76 or so 2wd Auto wagon in a yellow paint color.

We talk about Spoiled rotten Brats over in the Older Gen forum. I am a proud owner of one.

How about the Upper North Lot, thats where the last Colorado Meet (USMB ppl that is) was. The last time we met up there the top lot was kindof full.

On AWD Subaru's it is best to tow the car with all 4 wheels off the ground or with the front off the ground and the rear driveshaft pulled and transmission tailshaft capped to prevent fluid drainage. On FWD Automatics tow with the front off the ground. I think I remember this being bad reverse clutches and you need a rebuilt transmission. Reverse clutches, when toasted badly, will keep the car from being able to shift up in gears because they slow the internals of the trans to allow the gears to mesh. If you really love the car get a rebuilt transmission installed. Lucky thing is, you live in Colorado not too far from where CCR is. Call (303) 293-9230 and talk to them for a quote. Be sure to explain what happened when you call just so they have an idea of what the old one is going to be like inside. The website is linked here: http://www.ccrengines.com/

The end of the crankshaft is tapered so unless the bolt snapped off at a point further out than the end you are in a pretty bad spot....the cranksshaft would have to be removed which means its time to rebuild the engine. When that pulley came off and it ran hot you probably did enough damage to need a rebuilt engine too.

You can replace the bleeder but that would mean doing a rear brake jobs worth of work. With all the rusted clips and such that you are going to encounter its probably best to move to a disc brake setup for the rear. This will save you a bunch of PITA time in the future as well. Off to Harry's and get everything from the rear backing plates out to the wheel studs on each side and get the brake line from where its torn--down..making sure to at least be at the 10MM to 10MM junction where the flex hose meets the hard line again. Donor cars are EA82 powered Turbo 4wd vehicles. Use all the used stuff and make sure your used calipers are good before replacing the disc's or pads would be my tip. It only takes 10 min to go back in and put the pads and discs on after you know the brakes work but they are out of round.

I am pretty sure they non vented pads are too thick and the PN's at an Auto parts store website and dealer parts books aren't disqualifying this theory.

I talked to Eyesore on the phone the other day, he is a parts delivery driver for a Lexus Dealership. Sounded like a great job. Im game for meeting up with the locals now that I am one! Last years Colorado meet at Red Rocks park was nice, maybe we could all meet up there again.

Im moved in and online now, any of you that are local to me that want to give me a call just PM or email me for the number. Thanks to John (aka thesuckerking) for helping unpack the truck!!!!! He is amazing.

Ive got a WIFI setup here now and I dont secure it one bit. Frankly I am happy to share my comcast with the whole neighborhood! None of them have wifi though so its pretty secure!

Moving in date is August 1st. If you can help that is really appreciated. Won't be a long ordeal just some large stuff that 140 pound ol me can't move himself. Thanks! 319-621-6496 I will not be near internet till after I get moved in so I am stuck with just the phone.

Very true Morgan!

Take a piece of pipe the same diameter as the caliper and chop it so it has notches on each side of the pipe opposite each other. Then twist the pipe. Jmr if you want to borrow my pipe when I get out there let me know.

Walk into the parts store with the old one and they can walk the aisles looking for one that has the bend in it. I have yet to find a store that didnt have the 90 degree bend hose.

Redlance is from there. One other person at Midwest 1 was from Lincoln but I don't remember the board name.

Anybody able to help unload a truck in Arvada on August 1st? 4833 Flower Court Is the address. This is in Arvada along I-70 between Wadsworth and Kipling. I haven't got a local telephone # yet my Iowa number is 319-621-6496. If you are able to lend a hand with a couch, washer, dryer, etc that will be great, just drop me a ring or email me before I leave Iowa for the address. Beer/Pizza (or substitute your request) will be provided to the help. Thanks!

Soon as I get out there I will hook u up with an alt.

Id like one at that price.