ShawnW

Vanagon Westfalia (camper) is what Im looking for. I havent followed up with the one in Boulder but I thought it wasn't a camper. Ill have to re-read my PM's. Im going to do an EJ22 swap. It requires stuff from KEP (Kennedy engine products) as well as a wiring harness conversion. Ill rebuild the engine before installing it. The Ej22 I am building will be 148 HP and the original engines in the vanagons are 1.9 and 2.1L engines that put out 81 and 90 HP respectively. I drove one setup like this the other day and it drove extremely well and pushed the 4000 pound bus around like it wasn't any big deal.

My Turbowagon is sitting in the garage waiting for me to get off my duff and get it finished. I ran into a snag with replacing the brake master cylinder and with a custom axle that wouldnt clear the steering and got frustrated with it. Thanks for the comments on the 80 Wagon. I like driving it alot, the little EA71 really puts out alot for its weight. The wagon is coming along nicely with some additions I found at the yard today and after waxing it the cosmic blue paint actually was pretty again. The sun has REALLY done a number to this car but im going to give it a go at looking pretty again with some paint and creativity. Somehow I found a pretty worn out but nice WOOD shifter knob that was an accessory in 1980. I also found a couple of slanted radio boxes and will cobble them together to have a radio in the car again.

This is what im going to drive while I finish my Turbowagon and find a Vanagon to build. Its a 1980 1600 GL 4wd (single range). 316k on the body, 50k on rebuilt engine.

Yes, the Vanagon in Boulder. Its awesome except the body isn't rustfree it lived in Wisconsin for a long time. The engine wasnt rebuilt in the install process either so it has 200+k on it. probably Worth what he is asking I dont think it is worth that much to me.

I broke the rule and got 2 more on Sunday. Gotta sell the Brat to get a Vanagon (will be Subaru powered don't worry). Im still over my limit though.

Timesert info: http://www.timesert.com/index.html

Yup, stereo bal/fade.

Safety suggestion: Dont use your finger to hold the carb butterfly open. If the car backfires up thru the carburator you will be in a world of hurt. Instead use a long thin screwdriver and stand with your head back from it while you pour.

You might be close enough to HillbillyLes to consider buying an entire car. Its lifted already but rolled down a ravine or something so the car body is the only problem. Link below is to his ad. Hes a fantastic guy and has been around here a long time. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22936

Im with the rest of these guys, my current brat has them. The front vented DISC brakes were a PITA to get the mud out of after getting stuck on an infamous mud road but the rears were just a matter of pressure washing. Its nice being able to visually inspect your brakes without even taking the wheels off (I run 8 spoke alloys).

1, 3, 2, 4 See article: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=4

The pipe wrench is great for removal but for installation the torque spec is hard to achieve.

Don't hold me to this but I am 90 percent sure that the block heaters they sold for the 2.2 will work on the ea81 and ea82 engines. You need the 14MM hex tool to get the plug out. Your dealer parts counter will probably have the kit in stock. BE ADVISED: There is a metal plate that sticks to the inside of the block heater dummy plug that will come out and go into the coolant passage in the block. If this happens you can have coolant circulation problems.

Find a salvage yard that will find you a wrecked but running one and buy the whole car.

You really should have kept the intake from the car with the wiring harness to avoid this problem. Sorry I dont know for sure on what wires go where and whether or not it matters.

If you buy the wiring diagram instructions from Kennedy Engineered Products for ~20 bucks it tells you how to wire an ej22 to work in a Vanagon. Keep in mind that some of the wires would still need attending to but most of them would be easy to use. Then just a fuel pressure change and youre done.

1. Right. The stub slides into the differential and is part of the axle. It can be unclipped but for servicing just slide it out. 2. I usually dont need to, if I need slack I get some in the interior. 3. These are mostly like a front axle on the rear, theres not a stub on the outer anymore, you gain slack by unbolting an item off the rear suspension like you would on the front, and then slide the differential end off, then slide the axle thru the bearing.

Theres been some great additions to USRM lately and we have auto tech articles area as well. Not a big fan of stickies. Would rather people didnt say things like "use search ______" and such and rather would just link the newbie to the info so they can find it. Just be sure to link them to information that is comprehensive and accurate please. Thanks!

Theres no way I would go for that trade.

Junkyard ones are usually ok.

The trick is not to look for them, let the deals find you. That and knowing a lot of people. :-p

Good score!

If you are getting voltage TO the starter (thus the clunk), 9/10 times its the starter itself. Some people have had luck with cleaning the battery terminal or flipping the contact on the starter somehow but I dont remember where this article is at and dont seem to find it in searches.

Front and rear differentials are not interchangable. Early Legacy Turbos have a 3.90 Viscous LSD that works in the older models. SVX rear diffs are 3.545 gear ratio but I havent tried swapping pumpkins to make a 3.90 LSD yet. I will be trying this soon though.

Owners manual? I can get you one. $5 with shipping.