ShawnW

I wasn't holding out on you. Just started thursday at 1:00.

Not going to modify the oil pan, just going to be aware of its location when driving on uneven terrain and just see how it goes dent wise as I drive it and modify if I really have to. The engine is so accessible I would be tempted to throw a spare oil pan into the car for that really rainy day and just nurse it back home if the worst ever happens. The later model parts being used thusfar are the OEM Vanagon radiator, overflow bottle and maybe the heater core if it seems reasonably easy to retrofit and pull from the junkyard machine I just found today. Going to use Home Depot 1.25" copper house pipe to go from the front to the rear and possibly similar solution for the heater core by running smaller copper pipe front to rear there too. One comment I will make is the Kennedy parts have been outstanding. I am incredibly impressed with the exhaust header quality and design as well as the engine crossmember. I think it would be nearly impossible to do the conversion in a timely manner without their wiring diagram and its $20 well spent for the blueprint and instructions. Today's biggest obsticle overcome was making the rear engine wall allow for the air intake hose to come out of the throttlebody as the Air cooled engine has a different rear wall than the water cooled. Actually chopped a portion of the wall out in order to overcome this. Would only have been easier to do with the engine out but it really looked like everything was just going to bolt in and work. Its definately a learning process doing this on an Air cooled one. Tomorrow it may get its first attempt at a crank over. That will be something to grin about.

Did you have the distributor out? Its possible you are 180 out and therefore have no timing marks showing I think.

Good one of the engine adapter mated to the trans, and the crossmember. All Kennedy Engine parts. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=3515 and one of the engine sitting on the cart http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=3514&sort=1&size=medium&cat=500

Two teaser pics uploaded today. The van came in a VW: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=3512&sort=1&size=medium&cat=500 Achtung! There is a Japanese engine in here! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=3513

Marshall is in the process of relocating his shop area and is probably just swamped with that. Next time I see him (often) I will have him give you a call. Can you email me your contact information so I can give it to him in case his phone messages arent coming thru? Thanks Shawn

There are a few 89 Model year Legacy's out there. They have some subtle differences including wheel covers that look more like Old gen having chrome trim rings and a center cap, weird grill, non color matched front bumpers and probably more.

The transgo one for the legacy is actually springs and assorted valve body parts.

Should work fine. The only thing I have had problems with is the number of pullies and you can switch the pullies with an impact wrench. Advance auto parts online catalog says they are the same part number.

I highly doubt it on the 85. If anybody would know of a kit it would probably be Emily who just posted above. I have rode in 2 of the cars with the transgo kit in it and they are amazing.

Sweet! License plate frames would be cool if possible.

What did you have the e-brake handle pulled up? Never done that before.....

All the alloys should be okay. All of them should be okay on front wheels and I think the ea82 wheels rub but the ea81 steel wheels dont on the 80 and older models.

Turbo brat is my guess.

Id guess moisture or oil is getting in the brushes and that spinning the alt at that RPM is giving them a quick cleaning so they start working.

Is the check engine light on? If so a code is stored that can be removed with an ODBII reader, provided non USA models have ODBII.

I have taken GrossGary's text and bolded the part that I think your problem is.

Removing just the lock is doable but you need to remove 4 10MM headed bolts to get the ignition switch off a column with tilt steering. The bolts are a PITA to get out but its doable. Take the covers off the column and slide what is refered to as an ignition wrench in and get the bottom two then the top two. The wrench is available at Sears as part of a set with a whole bunch of other little wrenches. Depending on the cars setup the column coming out as one big unit can be a lot easier especially if you have somebody else around to help you as stuffing the column thru the firewall and getting it into the steering yoke is kindof hard alone.

Adjusting the timing is usually enough, set it to 10-12 degrees instead of 8.

By then I might have a Subaru powered van to show off.

Does the car pull to one side when you apply the brakes?

Im dating someone that drives a Honda CRV so youre pretty safe. The Subaru gods havent shot a flaming asteroid at me yet and its been a couple years. For the record she wants a Subaru now we are just waiting for the right deal.

I hope everybody cuts ya some slack its not like youre a video production company. Although that isn't a half bad idea for a career move if I do say so myself you are pretty good at making these! Now I wish I would have noticed I broke one of mine moving before the cutoff date but oh well how many VHS tapes can I have around anyway.

Not absolutely necessary but under normal use, like headlights, they tend to go at about the same time. This seems abnormal and using just one might be okay. No liability shall be assumed by USMB as usual though.

I agree with WJM. The wheel cyl's arent too expensive and this is the proper solution. Once moisture/rust has gotten into them they are junk.