ShawnW

Old trick that works quickly. Hook a Vmeter to the battery and unplug things(fuses) until you see no further drop in volts. Then you know what circuit it is on.

Is there some sort of key code on the cap? Maybe you could get a key made off the number.

You'd want to have the flywheel that matches the size.

Is that the one thats there for adding a block heater? If so you could spend the $30 or so on a block heater.

Please read this post: http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6439&highlight=gear+final+drive

the large switch in the e brake console is the diff lock switch.

Most major chain parts stores do a loaner tool program, and I have seen a few that have timing lights on the list. Somebody here might be near you that has one and is willing to loan it. If you mark everything and follow the procedure the amount of timing that you are off will be very minimal and you can time by ear enough to drive somewhere and buy or borrow a timing light. I too would go with a rebuilt unless you have a cheap u-pull it yard around. CCR is probably charging that much cuz its a full rebuild....vac advance, bearings, cleaning and replacing some electronics, etc. Just a guess, I havent checked their site for details on the disty rebuilds. Highly recommend them though, very thorough on what they do.

I can mail you one if necessary but the junkyard would be a lot quicker.

Please read this post: http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2562&highlight=Brat+Differences

Miles do you have MSN messenger or AOL IM? I would like to chat with you regarding some of the web things you are doing. Thanks, Shawn

Length is the only difference and it seems to be unique to the ea81T vehicles. I plan on using one from a carb model as all the ones I ever find are frayed beyond a usable state. Save your old one though, I believe somebody here had ideas on how to thread new cable thru and crimp the end. Im still looking into that.

Calebz, for now hit the home button at the top, and then it appears in the quick links on the left side of the VBhome page. Im working on adding a button to the top for the ultimatesubaru.org page.

Bad Axle or Axle nut torqued incorrectly. Brake pads separated and lining is not attached to the backing anymore. Had this happen with my 86 Hatch a long time ago....weirdest thing ever. 4 different places including 2 Chicagoland Subaru dealerships couldnt find it.

Did you jump the car with the flashers still switched on? Did you charge the battery up again? Just driving it is usually not enough. Gotta bring it back to FULL charge again, and soon.

I'd rather call "PLOW KING!"

If you click on the image you can see it more clearly.

Mick is just awesome when it comes to organizing stuff like this. He was chosen to be the Ultimate Subaru Club treasurer due to the amazing success we have had in the past with him organizing and accepting the payments from everybody. You guys are going to love the Brat shirts too, they are a lot of fun.

Extremely rare car. Show her the thread here and maybe you will get the arm punch taken back.

Id tend to assume its the positive battery cable. I replaced mine for $4 at Oreilly and that was a cheap/easy fix. Measure the length on the old one before you go to the store.

On the Legacy models its popular to hide the wiring in the interior in the pockets on the side and when you use the hitch you just string the wiring thru the liftgate/trunk and shut the gate.

Fraud! Wonderful, I will add that to the USRM. Just kidding.

The lack of digital dash should have been the upgrade. I see yours has the sunroof strapdown in the cargo area but no sunroof too. Strange eh? Id say you did real good for a $1000 plus repairs on that.

Im not sold. The belt driven ones are extremely easy to service and our alternators aren't that great (stock) so I think thats a step in the wrong direction for most older Subaru's.

NEAT! Great score, cant wait to see pictures.

Looks good.