ShawnW

Bumping this up thinking about trying it. But does it work?

Please don't send people to another forum for information. That is a great forum but we have really good info here as well. If you want to link to a specific relevant thread that is fine.

Superior Import Repair. Owner Richie is a long time member of this forum and was a moderator for many years. They know the old Subaru's!

Those are bolt in wheel bearings and I replaced a TON of them under warranty at a Subaru Dealer. If the car sees gravel roads its almost twice as often they need replaced or cleaned between the bearing and the hub per a bulletin they had. Chances are very good you need them done.

Just don't forget to test or swap the female seat belt end from the seat before permanent install.

The rear axles aren't the same but if you use the 93 axles and rear diff I think it would work.

I haven't ever encountered one that failed. Lots of them are the same across models like you mention but the only way I know is to visually check. I have switched them and the flex plate and had no problems but your mileage may vary.

Im headed out tomorrow to get it. Shawn

Want it!

I will take it! I love that thing! Mine is just not rust free enough to invest the time into but a good donor car for it. You have a PM/Email. Slightly insane plans for it but good ones!

The gear ratio is usually wrong on a Legacy for an Outback. Usually a 98-96 Outback will work. The 99 is quite a bit different but might work. You could gut the trans by taking the rear tailhousing, pinion shaft and front diff off and switching all over but thats sometimes intimidating to people.

Does it merely sound like its running on 3 or is it really? Can you pull plug wires one at a time and see if nothing changes with one?

Does the smoke come out the tailpipe or just inside the engine compartment?

Its not too bad a job. Gotta pull the tail housing and the front to do it and use the ring with the trans you are getting the front diff from's pinion shaft.

I run Subaru extra S fluid. But I get it wholesale and its about the same cost as regular 75W90 for me. I love it. I really love that its SUBARU oil and it actually does seem to make my transmissions shift a little easier and smoother.

A few being built around here in Denver. I want one for sure. I wish it was more weather friendly but still looks like a lot of fun. For me its between this and a Porsche 356 kit car with an EJ swap.

You took the harness from the EJ25 engine and installed it on the Ej22 engine or you used the Ej22 harness? I have seen a rod come up thru the coolant crossover pipe and crack it and it wouldn't be hard to crack a part of the coolant temp sensor as well. Happy to take a peek at it if you want to stop by my shop. Details at retroroo.com

For the price of an SJR lift you can't go wrong. Its a lot of time and materials. Especially when you consider the R&D has already been done, covered, etc on getting the tires to not completely trash out quickly. I love doing things myself-I try to do almost everything but for a lift I wouldn't anymore. If you were trying to make 3 of the same gen/or type I would possibly agree with you but 3 different bodies and not all of them for yourself I wouldn't.

When was the last time it ran? Is this a daily driven car and something new or a new project? Did you just do a bunch of work or replace anything?

I have never seen any sort of washer that was effective in cleaning an engine without dis-assembly. Anything with a water based washing you aren't going to want to put anything with a steel part of casting into. Cases, once torn down are ok as you can dry them immediately with compressed air but anything like a bearing or crankshaft is a huge no no. As soon as it rusts you are in deep trouble.

Pay the shop to pull the oil pan and reinstall it with fresh new silicone. While its off check for metal. Pull the spark plugs and make sure the ends aren't smashed. If you have access to a bore scope stick the camera in the spark plug holes. Its an absolute gamble but its what you get when going with a used motor.

I don't worry about the belt as much as the idlers anymore. I change everything but when it comes down to it I see way more idler failures than belt failures. The small one by the tensioner looks really old. The others not so bad. The belt PN doesn't look like a new version to me but I don't do a lot of EJ20 belts these days. If you don't know how to do the job make sure you follow guides and when you have everything lined up take more photos and post them here to get verified that you did it right. Little mistakes can be very costly here.

If you have block sealer in it the radiator and heater core are both suspect. And if you have a 90 legacy and don't know what caused the head gaskets to go you might want to pressure check the cooling system before trying to do the head gaskets. Make sure no moisture is inside the car after you pressurize it at 15 pounds or so. (check next day for wet carpets on passenger side of car).

I got tired of listing them on Ebay but we can still get em anytime. Email or call to order. shawn@retroroo.com or 720-440-1662 (10-6 M-F Mtn Time) All of February I will do them for $325 including shipping. That is ea81 or ea82 kits. Shawn

Do you have the remote start package?