ShawnW

Did ya sell it? I still have my parts car if you need a transmission.

Not really an easy swap. Find another Ej251 block.

What I have done before when I can't find an 8 bolt block at the junkyard is go find a 1999 Outback engine, take the heads off and put the ej25 sohc heads on that. The pistons are wrong but they aren't hard to switch out.

You can fudge some combos together to get by but in the end unnecessary risk might outweigh reward. The head gaskets have to match the BLOCK. The block has to have the right number of bolts connecting engine to transmission. Autos can mate to 4 bolt engines but manuals don't have stud for the lower starter to tighten down if you use a 4 bolt main block in an 8 bolt cars transmission. The power is going to be horrible on a 2.2 with 2.5 heads but as you figured out already the intake has to match the heads. It might be better in the long run to sell the Outback needing an engine, get a 1000 or so out of it and get an older model that one of your engines is intended to go into instead and fix a car with its corresponding parts. If it is just knocking take it apart, replace the crank and fix the motor instead. Good luck and hope it all goes well.

Cool. Can't go wrong grabbing one of those!

Sure sounds like Rod to me.

Do the trade. Its all that. Virtually the same type of power but without a turbo and with greater design.

The originals are a rather square item but most replacements of quality are a round one made by Kyosan that is OEM for that era of Subaru pump. PN 742021101 This is what the original looked like: I would rather have the KYOSAN one which looks like: The downside to the KYOSAN one is it often doesnt plug in despite having a factory type plug in. I wouldn't consider the vehicle not original by having the Kyosan pump. Some rigged cheap aftermarket pump yes but this is pretty damn good. I sell the pump for $89.95 plus $10 shipping if you want one. www.retroroo.com for contact info.

I have had that happen 3 times and I am rather impressed by the design.

There are lots of reasons you can have these symptoms with an H6 model car. To start you could have a slight leak of oil between the coil pack and the valve cover spark plug gasket seal. Next up would be an unseated intake air tube or an idle air control valve acting up. As for A/C symptoms make sure both fans operate when the a/c is on and that no relays are clicking. You could be over or under filled on freon as well. The switches and other Ac parts on this car don't often fail. The fans are pretty common to act up and of course as I mentioned freon charge is very common especially in this day in age where we have DIY kits that do a pretty horrible job and I wish they would get rid of them completely and leave it to the professionals. No DIY'er can put exactly 1.56 pounds of freon in a car like a true ac specialist can and when you over charge the system it does cycle on/off as a pressure switch reacts.

I probably have one or an 83-87 style Ea81 mirror that I think will go right on too.

A guy doesn't post on here 12,000 times without touching a few of us here. Having met him in person a few times at the shows I can say he was one of those guys that if I hadn't made my rounds and said hello to then I just hadn't been to the whole show yet. There are only a handful of people that make that list for me but every time I go to the show the list gets a little longer. When he would post on here he would never seem to leave out pertinent information. You could tell he had lived and done it before he would post. And if he wasn't sure he would certainly say so but that was pretty rarely since he had done most of the repairs before. I used to read his PNP updates and wish I could be at the yard with him as he would always find and try to save the rare, elusive and commonly broken stuff from the crusher. I am a little crushed that he isn't "in the yard" anymore but he sure did save a bunch of our great cars and parts from being there too long.

I had this problem with my moms 06. Put cheap ones in first because obviously she doesn't pay me labor. About 9 months later she was back. Got some NSK which are OEM bearings and no complaints about 2 years later so far. Chances are good the price difference on the crap vs good is about 8 bucks a side.

I wouldn't even bother if you have it all up and running with the 2.5 heads. It isn't enough extra to make the work worth it. Maybe do it down the road if you have a head gasket fail or another reason to pull the engine out.

1999-2001 Legacy or Impreza engines with 2.2 engine size only. Trans is easiest if you match back to the same tranny code. Try car-part.com for a used trans. I would recommend fixing the engine that came with the car if at all possible. We rebuild them at RetroRoo if you run out of options and we have a running core that may only need head gaskets but we haven't investigated yet. Shawn

I think its 11044aa180.

Interesting. I have used the ISHINO ones that look more like the bottom pic without problems but I don't know 35 years of life on it yet heck I am barely older than that.

Why not just fix the axle? Pretty cheap and sure a lot easier to deal with.

Check out the torque numbers too. The 1.8 is pretty nominal. Thinking of doing a swap?

Why bother wondering? They are pretty easy to replace. And frankly the stress of wondering would drive me crazy.

Alot of them came out of the factory with the big caps. Hit or miss on why.

Try this one: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/47562-fix-for-worn-and-sloppy-shifter-linkage/?hl=sloppy

$189 plus 12 shipping for an Ishino OEM type gasket kit. Usually the kit I am supplying has genuine Subaru gaskets in alternative packaging. Includes hg, int, ex, vc, tstat, cam o rings, throttle body an IAC gasket, and a few other small gaskets that I can't ID in the pic at the moment.

Yeah those are crap. I got a set to look at last year. The NPR pistons and lots of their other stuff is ok but no gaskets will be coming to my place anytime soon.

Turn the engine until the crank sprocket has the key for the crank pulley facing down. Now look at the cams. The arrows are at 2:00 and the notches on the edge of the cam gears are at 12:00. Pretty good photo from google search: http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y271/shankskank/OBS/obs7-1.jpg