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Everything posted by ShawnW

  1. We have a customer here that is going from the ea81 weber to ej22 and is selling his intake and weber carb. $300 shipped all mounted and ready to go. 720-440-1662. Paypal ok.
  2. The transmission rebuild kits I use are pretty close to $600 and the 2-4 brake hub part is not included in that. Then the torque converter rebuild is a minimum of $100 on top of that. For that amount most people go with a used one....so like Gary said if yours ain't broke don't "fix" it.
  3. It isn't that the 3AT is really a bad trans its just a good trans by todays standards. The new Ej 4EAT trans for example is known for being about twice as good. There are other elements too, like the fact that the trans was installed in all the EA81 Turbo cars and that engine tends to generate a lot of heat and kills these trannys too. More often than not the real problem is the trans is known for hard parts dying. Things like front differentials and governors are not common to die on modern auto trans cars. Lastly, the real killer against this trans is the ease in swapping in a manual transmission. But that "solution" isn't always a good one. Some drivers really need or want the auto. Its like saying the 4 speed dual range is a bad transmission. It isn't. But the 5 speed is so much better in the areas that the 4 is weak that it gets that reputation. Its the same with the autos too. That extra gear really makes the car more desirable to drive.
  4. Without a part number we would likely be guessing as to whether or not it will fit. Shipping there isn't a problem for me. I just got a steering column from a 1998 Outback that has that on it but I don't know if its compatible.
  5. Yep, across the freeway from there.
  6. Its just about 8 minutes from the old one. 6300 E 88th Ave Henderson CO 80640.
  7. A dual battery setup with two identical Red Optima type batteries would certainly work. That would require a battery isolator from an RV type supplier but not hard to wire up.
  8. I have been moving my shop for about the last 25 days and have really enjoyed reading a few of the ideas on here. Finally fully operational again and ready to make money again. What a bunch of work only to make your place adequate and then the next level took about 14 more days in painting and all that. Still don't even have a sign outside yet but that's close.
  9. Address updated. Moved shop this week.
  10. Best way? This tool. http://www.jbtoolsales.com/schley-products-92350-valve-stem-seal-removal-pliers-narrow-access/?gclid=CMa5g4zHw7gCFcNcMgodwzUAxQ
  11. I found the kit on Crutchfield before. I haven't used it yet but I have seen a few that had it done and it turned out ok.
  12. Do you think you used the Ej22 wrist pin in the Ej25 piston? If so you should be able to pull the clip, drive or pull the pin and do the swap without splitting anything. Its just a matter of taking the engine out.
  13. Tried the ones from this BMW forum post already? http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=155065
  14. Snap on STLE100. These are in there pretty tight sometimes.
  15. Yes, you are right I thought you were talking the plate to the crankshaft like you said.
  16. What about the radiator cap? I replace them all the time on the 4 cylinder models and fairly often on the 6. Does it hold pressure on a pressure test? A failed one would certainly have these symptoms.
  17. Flex plate is 52.8 pounds. Check for play in the crank before you get too far. Grab the nose of the crank and move it front to back. If its moving and makes a little clunk noise you are done. That's the cause of the leak-you won't be able to stop it and worse yet the engine is on its last legs. Expect 30-45K or less. A seal around the the oil pump is about the only thing I can think of that would cause that other than lack of oil changes.
  18. Some Ej25D's have a couple of tabs on the edge that others don't. I would pull your valve covers and see which ones and go to Subaru for them. Or just order the genuine ones that don't have the tabs as they will work fine. I have the Ishino OEM ones in a kit. They have the spark plug gaskets, moons, bolt seals and the two gaskets. $50 plus shipping. I think I could stuff them in a Priority mail small box for the $5-6 rate. I probably have enough extra already clean valve covers around if you want a set that is ready to go on and pretty I can include those for $10 extra and about $10 extra shipping.
  19. I would still put the seals in if the bearings allow for it.
  20. I install 10x1.25 timeserts into the ASV plate and then put shorter studs in. The Legacy/Impreza studs of 48.5mm work if you have the inserts in the plate.
  21. Ive got a steel 15" rim. Make offer. shawn@retroroo.com
  22. Die grind the hole about an additional 1/2 of what is there already outward. ( ) becomes ( ) toward the outside of the car on each side.
  23. You can bring it by my shop I will tell you which ones you need.
  24. Timeserts instead of Helicoils. Trust me guys. I switched over and never look back. So much easier to get right the first time and have never had one fail like the coils. For a lasting repair I wouldn't even try tapping and longer bolts. Once the integrity is gone you need to trust this so you don't waste all your efforts in sealing the engine. Measure the current depth of the hole with a micrometer and get inserts that match that closely. Slightly shorter is ok but as close as you can ideally. These lock into the aluminum and won't come back out. https://www.belmetric.com/ts1610-m6x10-kit-p-1499.html?zenid=2u4365hdiqmmufk2jorgoibm76&cPath=217_218_228
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