ShawnW

This will work above anything else including the starter trick. Its also safer. But don't use a screwdriver use a tapered pin punch that is very strong/quality. Screwdrivers aren't meant for this.

Found this video useful today when doing one in a 2010 Outback with a new mirror install so it should be the same as a 2013 one.

Now that you got it working get a bottle of TriFlow from a bike shop or locksmith. Its what a majority of locksmiths I have been to sell and one even said its the only thing you should ever put in a lock.

They were lined up when you installed the belt and have now moved? If so that's normal. As long as all the sprockets still line up when you put the crank mark notch in position with the oil pump's mark you are fine.

Yeah, we ran it to the start signal and it started immediately and ever since. I had cut the wire 1.5" from the end of the ECM plug and was able to wrap it around the starter wire right next to it in the plug and solder it in. Embarrassing but at least it was especially easy to remedy once the solution was found.

Solved and special thanks to KingBobDole who came down to the shop and solved it in about 35 minutes. Interrupt wire labeled wrong in diagram from Vanagon conversion company that makes the kit. Worse yet they knew about it and revised it last year but didn't update me.

Care to share the link on the dual subwoofers?

I am biased but I think this is exactly what you are looking for. What sort of Subaru are you looking for? Are you good with tools and cars?

No, car won't even run that way. Crossed my mind and we swapped it and it doesn't run at all that way.

I would assume that car says PZEV on the back. Anything wrong with the heads?

I already changed the ECU out. Along with the MAP, Crank angle sensor and fuel pressure regulator. The fuel pressure regulator did seem to help with the pressures but nothing changing on the starting side.

You have to split the case to do any bearings on a Subaru engine.

Post a photo of your engine compartment near one of the heads and I can tell you what it is.

So is the plan to move everything from yours to the other body?

Lets be clear that the longblock and the head are the problem, and you need to drill and tap the head and not use the JDM intake manifold but rather use your cars original intake manifold. If you don't want to drill the head you can take a head off the old engine

That sounds like a bad compressor to me. I usually inject the oil but you can buy the little cans like suggested.

I agree but logic kindof slipped out the window a long time ago. ECU thinks the coolant temp is 77 degrees.

I am at my wits end with the Vanagon Conversion I am doing. I used a 2001 Outback EZ30 6 cylinder engine from an LLBEAN model. Its been a long time since I asked a question here but I know you guys do these swaps too. It will start on starter fluid but it will continue to run as well. ONce its running its fine but as soon as you shut it off it won't restart without the carb cleaner helper. I think its the crank position sensor and the troubleshooting seems to confirm it but previously it had no fuel pressure and it would revent to the tank or atmosphere after 5 or less minutes the pressure would be 0. Countless other problems but strangely enough no problems with my wiring or anything I did just consequential stuff. I have solved the fuel pressure problem with a new pump and chucking the VW charcoal canister but still can't get it to run. In other words I probably had 5 problems before and might be down to this last one but the 4 previous ones have cooked my ego a little. The FSM says the resistance of the crank sensor should be between 800-1300 K Ohms but this one registers 1850....but strangely enough the one on my backup engine also reads that. I don't know its any good since I got the whole thing at the salvage yard out of a non running car and it would make sense that someone couldn't solve this on a car too but I keep wondering. Anybody else able to confirm that number from another FSM other than the 2001 model version? I don't want to drop $100 on a sensor if it isn't going to solve it. All the same the symptoms sure make sense. Thanks!

New is around $100 from me and I have used ones for $25 shipped. I obviously don't sell cracked or scored up pumps. I can put a kit into the pump or include it for an additional cost of $25.

4/10 on both items. On non turbo ea81 without power steering most home mechanics that are a step or two above oil changes can do it. Drain coolant, remove tstat housing from end of upper radiator hose with 2 12mm head bolts, clean surfaces, install new parts and refill with coolant. I avoid Stant or cheap aftermarket tstats on all Subaru's.

I think everybody on the board and the road has a right to know what you have done here. I don't think its safe either and there are a lot of guys saying that. We do share roadways with you. Nobody is telling you not to experiment, but that there are limits to a home tool set and engineering. Contacting a strut manufacturer to get something made to your liking might work or buying some coil over type units that have adjustable perches.

There is a tool that pulls it thru the hub. I have 2 of them but they essentially thread onto the end of the axle and it pushes against the hub while you pull the threaded end thru. Like this but mine doesnt look exactly like their photo. http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/otc-tools/product-line/otc-subaru-front-axle-shaft-installers

The ea82 is a different part number but the wheel bearings themselves are the same size if I remember correctly. The part number for your Brat is 80-5515. The EMPI parts are being phased out so be aware of that and that getting a replacement may be next to impossible in the future after stock is depleted . They sold their axle business to another company.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/138034-80-hatch-project/

Ok. Ill drop it. I think I still made my point but for fun is a great reason.