ShawnW

Welcome. For small bits shipping from the USA is probably going to be ok, big stuff remember can be pulled from any 1980-1984 and later years of the same body style front end. Post a photo if you can.

Most people and shops don't have the tools to insert a head bolt.

I just use Plast-x every other oil change. The haze comes back but its easy to keep ahead of it that way.

Thats a deal right there! Already pulled, ready to go is amazing at that money especially if they cover it at a minimum guaranteed to run right on startup. Thats the minimum warranty I will buy.

Which is why most used automotive parts suppliers call themselves Automotive Salvage yards. I am sure everyone here understands but to review, the idea is to Salvage the good, usable parts from the vehicles prior to them being crushed. I would say its a bad practice to use wear items from salvage vehicles but items that can be measured and inspected to tolerances from the factory manual are encouraged to be reused. I install used engines, transmissions, rear differentials, interior and exterior trim pieces and electronic items all the time. Most of these can be purchased for 20 percent of the cost of a new one from the dealer and even better are available much quicker than waiting for a part from a dealer that has to order the part in. If a part is in stock at the dealer its probably one to install a new one of. If not, its probably good to buy it at the "junkyard". Also: Keep it clean. Don't call each other names and bash each others ideas. Challenge ideas and suggest but don't smash on one another. This is a friendly place to talk Subaru. Infraction points have been given and will continue to be given if it doesn't stop.

Yes. Mostly straight repair work in fact.

I don't think it will. Those are for polypropylene glycol and the blue I believe is Ethylene glycol. You also probably know these don't mix well (gel). I don't believe that Subaru would ship a car that isn't ready for your temps. Did you check the owners manual or with a dealer to see what the blue is rated to? I am not near a jug of it right now but I will be tomorrow.

The tensioner statement you made isn't entirely true. Initially Subaru and many of its technicians thought there was something wrong with that tensioner but its actually the bracket itself. There is a service bulletin for the noise. The biggest failure I see in those is people compressing them in a vise. These need to be compressed in the orientation that they are installed on the car. This can bend the center pin and make the hydraulic unit oil leak, which also causes a slapping noise. Its best to compress them very very slowly with a prybar while on the engine using the old timing belt as a cushion. In fact the old style can be messed up in a vise as well but by compressing them too fast in this ones case. 5 minutes should be spent compressing one. Any less and you can blow the seal just like the newer kind. Turn, walk away, turn, walk away, etc over a 5 min span and you will be fine. Use whatever one you have that has a new bearing and don't sweat it. They are both good designs that last 105K miles without incident when installed properly. If you have the bracket for the DOHC and need one for a SOHC just cut that extra ear off. And on the DOHC if you are missing the ear, its still usually just fine too.

The Plastx works pretty well. Ill buff your headlights for free in Denver.

I sure hope it makes it. If not, have it towed to me if its closer than home.

Which shop is it at? I would check the wires on the bottom of the underhood fuse box, cam and crank angle sensors and then just do a scan with a diagnostic scanner to see if anything is tripping when it does die.

I would recheck the torque on the rocker assemblies. Its easy to get one on a little crooked. Are the cams you installed the ones from the heads originally?

That or the cylinder head gaskets are starting to fail.

Might get you pulled over in places if those lights aren't covered. Check local laws. Also get cracked pretty easily too. They look cool though!

Used engine from the junkyard and swap it in that one?

The cruise control will lockout with the Check engine light. This is normal for this model year. I believe its to encourage repair of the car for the light as a majority of people ignore this light.

I would be checking the fan manually first and make sure there is no corrosion in the plug to the fan itself. Much more often this is the case than the relay. Then the wires going into the bottom of the main relay/fusebox under the hood are also commonly pulled out for some reason.

Yes. I was providing information for people that search and find this thread in the future.

Catalyst warranty is 8 years 80,000 miles on that car. Its possible the car is past that so if it is the dealer isn't the place to go if the cats are failing. It needs to be properly diagnosed to be sure and not waste money. Often I recommend replacing the front Oxygen sensor if the car is near 100,000 miles, reset the computer and see if the code comes back. This can be at or near the same price as a professional scan and diagnostic and I consider the front 02 preventative maintenance like spark plugs. Also make sure the air filter and air intake ducting is free of leaks.

I would want to know if the tach is irratic sometimes and then I would head for a FSM after that. Not much help I know.

Ill try to snap a photo tomorrow if this isn't clear but when you open the lift gate theres a little black edge of the taillight and I believe two 10MM bolts. Pulling those out should allow you to pull the assembly out. Do so gently at first in case my memory isn't perfect but they can be in there really tight as I recall. I need to do one on Wednesday after my car gets out of the dealer for a recall.

It pulls when you apply the brakes or all the time? This car needs a thorough inspection by someone that knows Subaru's. If they can't align it well enough to get the steering wheel straight when they are done they aren't doing a good job.

And try to stop using the glass to open or close the door.