ShawnW

If I can find a suitable container I might try shipping a gallon of Extra S out. I buy it in the 20L/5g buckets on a monthly basis for my shop RetroRoo.

Id start with the rocker assembly. 3 bolts for the valve cover, 8 more bolts for the rocker. If the tick is still there after that, oil pump rebuild/reseal. Probably use another pump entirely. The shim is for idle oil pressure mostly.

I locktite the arrow one using one of the other bolts and put the locktite one in another hole if its been used before. I use Red. Nothing on the Torque Converter or Flexplate.

I usually have a pump available here at the shop that has been checked and reassembled. If you need help keeping it on the road or want to sell the car give me a call.

With the car off can you feel all 5 gears and reverse? If so, start it with it in gear with the clutch pedal in and see if you can move in any of them. Like, try starting out in 2nd gear and see if it will move, 3rd, etc. Its really unlikely every gear broke. I bet clutch cable or clutch itself.

Cool! Copying to Historic forum.

Im looking for a donor car to get as close to a 1997 model Impreza harness since I have the wiring instructions for that year. Anybody know if 96-98 are the same as 97 or if there's a key difference? I also assume all the Imprezas have the ECM on the passenger floorboard? Ive never seen anything but that but I haven't gone looking actively either. Lastly, are the 95-99 Outback ECM's over there on the floorboard or up under the dash like 90-94?

The one side is a piece of cake to clean/remove. The other side-not so much.

The thrust bearing is #3 as indicated, unless the shortblock was replaced in the past. You could verify by looking on the passenger side rear of the engine for a vin number etching. If it matches your car its original. If theres no vin on it the shortblock was done and could easily have been replaced with a late 98 replacement block which can be a 4 bolt with a #5 rear journal setup, or an 8 bolt bellhousing which always has a #5 thrust journal. If its had head gaskets done and they are blown again do the shortblock, deck the heads flat and replace the valve stem seals minimum. Anything less will be another do over in a short period of time. The 2.2L suggestion is a good one but if you have the means to rebuild it at a reasonable cost thats going to be a sound solution and more powerful engine. Im one of the biggest fans of the swap but its not perfect for everyone. If you need help sourcing parts call me. I rebuild at least one a month of this particular engine and have rebuilt hundreds of them in the past. Turn the crank a minimum of "10" and buy .25 bearings. Or buy a new crank and standard main and rod bearings. I could set you up with a crank and bearings for under $500 shipped I think. I think the last crank I bought was around $351 but I would have to call to verify that, it was last years pricing and the new catalog changed at start of the year some things went up, some down (at Subaru). If in doubt, email me or post a photo here of what you aren't sure of. Its not worth guessing and doing it again.

Theres supposed to be RTV in certain spots like the ends where cams meet, where 1/2 moons are, etc. Not all the way around the edge or anything crazy. Having the dealer adjust them is probably worth it as the special tool is very expensive and the job isn't any fun either. Most would agree, not worth it unless you have check engine lights for misfires, or noise, etc.

Any wagon with a 3rd row rear facing seat would be a candidate I think. Volvo's, Celebrity Wagons from GM, etc. I agree, neat idea.

Sell one that does angles? I own a SnapOn Techwrench with the Angle function but it was extremely expensive and way out of budget for anybody that isn't a full service shop. $724 last I checked for one. Awesome, worth it to me, but not for a couple head gasket jobs like most people would encounter.

Automatic cars don't have timing marks on a flex plate. They utilize the front crank pulley as shown. Theres usually a very small notch in the edge. It looks like you have it there near the 20 mark with the red dots near it. With the green connectors, it usually idles where its supposed to. Set it, drive it around, and verify its the same. Don't dig too far into it/over think it.

Have them test the battery too. Could be a bad cell or something moving around in the battery cells themselves.

Let the car cool off and clean the bottom of the valve covers off with Brake Cleaner. It will probably take a rag and a couple doses but clean it all off and then drive it again. Probably become obvious when you slide under where the oil is dripping off then.

Or watch for another body and use it as a parts car. Usually you can drive it a long time with the cancer as long as you don't have a state safety inspection requirement. Have fun with it and don't sweat the rust too bad until it really causes a problem.

The xt6 5 lug hubs would be a possible solution. But you won't have an EBrake connection with this setup. I have this: http://www.crossbredperformance.com/ And am the USA dealer for the conversion kit. Takes about a month right now to get a kit but they are awesome. Last time I priced one, was around $1100 with US to AUS Dollar exchange rate. Totally worth it.

Skip right past the 4spd and go 5spd. Its worth it, especially if you are going to go looking for another trans at the junkyard anyway. Just get one from an 85-94 Loyale/GL type body car with 3.90 rear end.

See if its a pain to get running on the stock engine. See if you can sort that out before you even start any body work. If you can, drive it some. If you are dying for more power and work and have the time and money go for it. If not, they aren't half bad stock usually. Post a few photos too, we can judge a little but its ultimately up to you.

Cool! Lets see progress. Nudge.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=110869&highlight=speed+sensor

No. On a Brat the VSS is driven off the back of the speedo head. Its got its own wire and spade terminal. I think the wire is yellow. Connect that wire to the 2.2 Ecm pin you mentioned.

If this is it I can ship it to you. It has a snap ring inside and you can press the bearing out its an NSK 6202V bearing inside the pulley. $20 shipped will toss in a bearing and a pulley assembly (shown) in a flat rate box. Phone number 720-440-1662 to order.

If you need/want the Korg that might be ok. I think you could part it out for more but not everyone has the facility to do that. Its likely got a scrap value of at least 350 without taking anything off it. Im not sure you could get $200 for the topper the market isn't that great in the midwest for one last I tried.

It seems like we use this forum as info and Marketplace do you guys want a sub forum for just 1980 and older in here?