ShawnW

The tensioner statement you made isn't entirely true. Initially Subaru and many of its technicians thought there was something wrong with that tensioner but its actually the bracket itself. There is a service bulletin for the noise. The biggest failure I see in those is people compressing them in a vise. These need to be compressed in the orientation that they are installed on the car. This can bend the center pin and make the hydraulic unit oil leak, which also causes a slapping noise. Its best to compress them very very slowly with a prybar while on the engine using the old timing belt as a cushion. In fact the old style can be messed up in a vise as well but by compressing them too fast in this ones case. 5 minutes should be spent compressing one. Any less and you can blow the seal just like the newer kind. Turn, walk away, turn, walk away, etc over a 5 min span and you will be fine. Use whatever one you have that has a new bearing and don't sweat it. They are both good designs that last 105K miles without incident when installed properly. If you have the bracket for the DOHC and need one for a SOHC just cut that extra ear off. And on the DOHC if you are missing the ear, its still usually just fine too.

The Plastx works pretty well. Ill buff your headlights for free in Denver.

I sure hope it makes it. If not, have it towed to me if its closer than home.

Which shop is it at? I would check the wires on the bottom of the underhood fuse box, cam and crank angle sensors and then just do a scan with a diagnostic scanner to see if anything is tripping when it does die.

I would recheck the torque on the rocker assemblies. Its easy to get one on a little crooked. Are the cams you installed the ones from the heads originally?

That or the cylinder head gaskets are starting to fail.

Might get you pulled over in places if those lights aren't covered. Check local laws. Also get cracked pretty easily too. They look cool though!

Used engine from the junkyard and swap it in that one?

The cruise control will lockout with the Check engine light. This is normal for this model year. I believe its to encourage repair of the car for the light as a majority of people ignore this light.

I would be checking the fan manually first and make sure there is no corrosion in the plug to the fan itself. Much more often this is the case than the relay. Then the wires going into the bottom of the main relay/fusebox under the hood are also commonly pulled out for some reason.

Yes. I was providing information for people that search and find this thread in the future.

Catalyst warranty is 8 years 80,000 miles on that car. Its possible the car is past that so if it is the dealer isn't the place to go if the cats are failing. It needs to be properly diagnosed to be sure and not waste money. Often I recommend replacing the front Oxygen sensor if the car is near 100,000 miles, reset the computer and see if the code comes back. This can be at or near the same price as a professional scan and diagnostic and I consider the front 02 preventative maintenance like spark plugs. Also make sure the air filter and air intake ducting is free of leaks.

I would want to know if the tach is irratic sometimes and then I would head for a FSM after that. Not much help I know.

Ill try to snap a photo tomorrow if this isn't clear but when you open the lift gate theres a little black edge of the taillight and I believe two 10MM bolts. Pulling those out should allow you to pull the assembly out. Do so gently at first in case my memory isn't perfect but they can be in there really tight as I recall. I need to do one on Wednesday after my car gets out of the dealer for a recall.

It pulls when you apply the brakes or all the time? This car needs a thorough inspection by someone that knows Subaru's. If they can't align it well enough to get the steering wheel straight when they are done they aren't doing a good job.

And try to stop using the glass to open or close the door.

If they moved I would pull the valves out in order and keep them in order. Then have the machine shop replace the guides and inspect the valves for any damage. Very unlikely it did any damage. IF it moved toward the stem seal its not as big a deal as if it came toward the top of the valve at the combustion end.

I will go look at this if anybody wants me to. Its about an hour away from me and gas and a little $ for my time would be required but looks like a gem to me. http://fortcollins.craigslist.org/cto/2565445187.html

Why? You can borrow fuel pressure test kits at the parts store with a deposit. I don't see the point of monitoring it "permanent". New pump is cheap insurance and cheaper than most quality pressure testers. Unless you are a professional mechanic I wouldn't invest in a pressure test kit. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_x_3150119-P_x_x?cm_mmc=CSE-_-Google-_-VALUE3-_-VALUE4&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=3150119-40252&vehicleId=40252

Remember this is a 9 year old car and to Subaru, that isn't going to be something they cover very often. Especially beyond powertrain 5/60 coverage window. By all means try it but don't be surprised when its denied. A rebuilt engine is probably your best bet. I sell a rebuilt longblock for $3059 for that model. Shipping is an additional charge of around $400 for both core return and new engine shipment.

Email me the last 8 digits of the VIN number and I can see if my dealer can cross reference the part in the USDM catalog and get you a price on a kit to do the job. Gasket, center viscous unit, etc.

If you didn't sell these already, I think I need these. Are they attached to the two hook on the RH side and the two big bumper bolts on each side attach to these? Mostly spot welded to the bottom side of the bed itself?

Very cool, thats near where the WCSS 11 was if I remember correctly we drove across the bridge from Astoria over there to see it. Cool park on the point. Lots of luck with the new Subaru and the mods and clutch replacement!

Cool! You should bring it by my shop to show it off!

Call for a quote contact info below.