ShawnW

That sounds like a fabulous guess to me. Little nut on the end of the cage could easily come loose.

A $1300 parts car with service history is a good deal to me. If you have room to keep it I would. Lots of those with rod knocks and such that you could take your engine out and install to.

I vote against it. I saw too many that were purchased at Auction that were impounded that got damaged by tow drivers grabbing them out of driveways and such like you are saying.

If you find any info on a flat rate estimating guide for auto repair let me know. Been trying to find one for a while.

Running my shop I have a Snap-On Solus Pro. Its too much most of the time. I think I will find a cheapie one just for pulling codes and clearing like this. The Solus does data logging and saves files and graphs and all that and is down right huge and you are afraid of dropping it or scratching it because its thousands of dollars to replace.

I have some aftermarket suppliers that provide factory type flanges and shapes. They aren't identical and sometimes the gaskets and bolt holes arent exactly perfect but they work fine once the mild struggle of installing is overcome. Often its no struggle at all. Just depends on the pipe and car. For that pipe I can get one for $200 plus shipping. Email me the VIN and I can also price a factory pipe from Subaru with my wholesale account.

From me. Link on signature. $20 shipped. Also do engine work (heads, complete rebuilt engines, etc if you have bent the valves and need help with that). The arrows are only for keeping track of what cylinder is at TDC and valve adjustments. Nothing more. Its frustrating that they made the arrows so obvious and the notches so subtle but you do have to know what you are doing too. Sorry to say I believe you have probably bent the valves in the engine. Hope not, and wish you luck.

I had that last week and could see it with bore o scope. Handy tool that I often go to before compression/leak tester because I can email a photo with it to the customer and don't have to mess with injectors. All the same great diagnosis and photo. Im laughing all the way to the bank on these shops that threw away or sold their valve grinders and head service tools. These jobs pay well and aren't that hard. Just labor intensive which is good money for my shop.

I accumulated shims at the junkyard. I pulled cams and shims from every engine I saw with the valve cover already off for years and have more than most dealers do. In fact, I got a call from one the other day wanting to "borrow" a size. Theres also a tool you can use to shave the actual shims in a valve grinder if you have one. I have both and love the tool. Snap-on sells an air hammer attachment for pushing valve guides out. Expensive but works good. I replace guides on every valve job, just cheap insurance but most are within tolerance. Thanks for the info GD. I got myself a piece of granite from a counter top place that dropped a counter. Was easy to cut with an angle grinder and a masonry wheel. About as flat as it gets and my next step is to mount the granite in a permanent workbench sitting flush to the rest of the bench, with a piece of plexiglass on top of it for regular valve lapping and seat work and pop the plexi out for surfacing. Im going to use this primarily on EA series heads but in a pinch I might try a quad cam 2.5 head. My arms were numb after the first ea82 ones I did. Ill post photos of the finished table in a few months.

Drop it off here in Denver at my shop, fly home, and fly back for the car in a week. Could probably even have it done all same day but a long one. Virtually everything they quoted is double what I would charge and some of it could be combined (spark plug tube seals are part of the head gasket job), (steering rack slightly easier with engine out), etc. Those prices are down right ridiculous.

The bearings and seals up when they are press in style are all the same except SVX, and other platform different cars. Legacy, Outback, Forester and Impreza all share part numbers on the bearings themselves. Some years/models have different positions for the wheel sensors but lots interchange. Visually it will be pretty obvious.

Sounds expensive to me but I don't know if we can be a fair judge of that. Maybe try ebay or something like that in your country? Shipping in can't be that expensive.

Yeah the cost of the 82 is the tiny clutch. I still vote 84 Turbo as best brat....after the MT swap.

The parts stores sell cans of Alloy wheel paint, theres a gunmetal color that I personally like and it usually looks great on a Red/Maroon car.

I get a text a month from my former employer-the dealer I was at. Its either a "hey how do we do this....or what would you charge to fix ____ on this" type of question. I frequently give my commercial parts counter guy the part numbers and he gets a little frustrated as they supersede about 3 times but they usually work. Unfortunately when they work they are often no longer available. Dealers local to me call me for prices on engines. They don't like my prices and I shoot back at them alot of times and tell them 2 cylinder heads for a WRX are more than that and then they ease off. I also price theirs about 40 percent higher than a walk in/internet customer. Its just the golden rule.

Just did head gaskets on 94 loyale spfi. Broke the top of the purge solenoid and have replaced with 2 different used solenoids to no avail. Clear codes both by plugging greens and clears and ign on and then off as well as battery disconnect methods not working. Comes back immediately or after short test drive each time. Can anybody tell me what electrical tests I can do on solenoids to verify good?

Glad to see you around again. What model are you seeking exactly? Can always watch for them up here.

Yep. Shop is the http://www.retroroo.com link on my signature. Its at 6300 E 88th Ave Suite 4 in Henderson which is at the corner of i76 and 88th. I certainly won't make too many complaints about previous repairs/upgrades. Might give you advice on how to make things better but I love a well modded car. 720-440-1662 is the shop phone leave a message if I don't pick up I am out of the shop alot running errands and customers around and work really strange hours for an auto shop because of my kid being my "day" job.

Loving it so far.

Its okay to attempt to avoid the dealer but sometimes its just easier and the quality is usually certain along with the parts are right almost every time if you bring your Vin number with you.

There is a Borla header and a fake both are pretty popular. You are right on the single port. Im not sure if there is a header for that exhaust port. You could put a 2.5 in place of the 2.2 and that switches to a dual port exhaust and of course increases the power. Not sure if thats carb legal though.

Sorry if you can't see my contact info. My shop site is http://www.retroroo.com I keep enough around for at least 1 kit to do every Subaru engine from 1990 and up.

Wonder what the date is on that data sheet. If its a few years old that would really be a crappy ending to an attempt to try to save a few dollars.

Id just grab an extra master switch or even just buy a power probe, its a tool you can give power and ground to motors, switches, etc real easily. WOuldn't take more than 10 minutes to pull the door card and power it manually with the probe if you needed to in a pinch. http://www.google.com/search?gcx=w&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=power+probe

Hilarious. Honestly just take the thing apart, wash in the sink, blow dry and wait 24 hours to reinstall so its known to be dried out completely. Then ban the drinking of soda from your lives but especially in the car. Bad for you and the car.