ShawnW

Trans and front 1/2 of the driveshaft is the right fix in my opinion.

If its a 90 or 91 I have a spare trans we pulled at Colorado a few years back from a wrecked one with 114K on it. Id sell it to you for $100.

There's a paperclip symbol/button next to the Smiley face control.

This is a huge financial purchase you are making. Don't let $500 sway a decision! Especially if you can move up another year or two for under $2000. Its well worth it. Be willing to travel to get it for a better price too. There are ways.

When you start the car does the AT oil temp light flash about 10 times? If so, a code is stored. You didn't mention a year or model of Subaru in your post that i see.

Besides, how cold is it in May anyway? I think hes asking a valid question but until October or so you might not have any idea. I don't see how it would harm though.

Lots of ways to narrow it down. You mentioned 4 speed and this is the 80's forum so I assume EA81 body car. I start with tires usually. Rotate front to rear. Old tires, or old steel "wagon" wheels both are known for being culprits in the vibration battle at times. The Alloy wheels can be a little hard for some shops to balance-the wagon wheels are often bent. I have seen people running the wrong lug nuts and such with strange vibrations. Driveshaft-mentioned-very common for a u joint to get dry on these. Check to see if they have grease zerks on them. If they do-grease and road test along with inspect them for play of course. If you have a spare driveshaft thats easy to swap out with 4 bolts. I assume you have tried going past 55 and taking it out of gear to see if it really does vibrate only at that exact speed.

If the old one is still under the car have it repaired. Radiator repair shops usually can do this for less than the cost of a tank either new or used plus shipping typically goes past repair cost.

All 3 are good, its about budget, timeframe and how you want it to look. The 2.2 swap is more expensive than it looks and takes a lot longer than it seems.

They both have just as much failure. I replaced them under warranty while working at the dealer. Like I said, if they had the shortblock replaced under warranty-either is good but the 09 better.

That black gasket is the good one. I have never seen one of those leak. Most of the aftermarkets come with a fiber gasket that I have seen fail. I wouldn't use this kind but if I had to, GD's recommendation on sealant is likely to be perfect for that.

Installing an ea81 on an 85 Brat. The gaskets the guys at Carbs unlimited sent fit, but the adapter is wrong. Anybody know the PN for the right adapter? I got a 99004.110.

Also make sure the ground wire on the edge of the radiator support is screwed into the radiator itself too. These break very often on the 80-84 and I bet a 78 has them too.

I think you meant to say its not 180 out. 360 out is "spot on". Essentially I think its 90 degrees off and the timing is all the way retarded or advanced to have it there and run the way you describe. You didn't remove the spark plug wires from the cap (incorrect firing order)? I would just start over. Pull the front passenger spark plug (1) and turn the engine over until you feel compression and the piston reaches TDC. Look at where the rotor is pointed and verify that its pointed at the #1 spark plug wires spot inside the cap. Then verify the firing order of 1,3,2,4 going around, and set the timing (pull vac line).

I would just drain it and see how much comes out. Then fill with exactly 3 quarts and see how many quarts it takes to make it be on the top mark?

You are right, it shouldn't go that high at all. Sounds like the fan isn't kicking on and staying on when it needs to.

The fuel lines can be done with dash in. I would only remove the dash if its cracked or a DL type that you want to upgrade.

Could do an EA81 swap like McBrat just did on a wagon, only keep the SPFI. About the same cost but should be pretty solid. I have one here (ea81) that should be fine.

Why are you looking at the main relay (orange/brown 2m) when the fuel pump relay is the silver one with the green plug in? In the hundreds of fuel related diagnostics I have done on Subaru vehicles-old, new, etc. Almost 0 failure rate of the actual relay unless its in a converted car (Ej22 swap, Vanagon conversion, etc). Almost 99 percent failure of the fuel pump itself. Maybe 1 percent is the fuel filter is completely clogged. Mostly old cars ---with a carburetor. If the pump is bad-replace the strainer on the pump (usually required to keep the warranty from the manufacturer) and the fuel filter.

This refers to what is essentially the "shape" of the engine. Interference only refers to the piston itself in this case. When they change the heads it goes to phase 2. The Impreza got the phase one as an interference engine in 97 and 98.

Did you ask a parts store if they have the seal install kit as a loan a tool? I push them in by hand myself. Make sure there isn't a ton of corrosion that is holding you up. Maybe use the old seal and tap the new seal in with it as a cushion. Frankly, risk it...if you mess up the seal get another. Pretty cheap anyway.

I had a 2009 Wagon. I miss it a lot. I worked at the dealer when they came out and could have had an 08 for 6,000 less and opted for an 09. I would do the same today. There are a lot of interior and exterior revisions done. The auto climate control works better on 09. The seats have WRX stitched into them and red edging. Ground Effects kit added No factory mudflaps available on 09 but 08 uses standard Impreza ones. No loss to me but its a difference. The power is huge. Turbo is changed, maps changed. The mileage on the 08 is better. If you plan on making a lot of changes and mods to the car the 08 isn't a bad choice. If you want to keep it stock the 09 is much smarter. Its got a lot more to it, doesn't cost much more, and in stock form is pretty fun as is. I have an access port I used on mine if you buy one and want to grab a nice used AP PM me an offer on it. I flashed about 3 different times and reverted back to stock and unmarried it when I sold the car. I don't think the shortblock in either year is better. I would try to find one with record of having it replaced though, as the rod/main bearings were weak and after the change are usually sound again. I drove mine out to LA and I gotta say the most fun I ever had with the car was there. Getting onto the freeways there with the power at sea level was amazing fun.

Moved thread to Old Gen. Almost put it in Historic.

I agree with GLoyale, he's nailed it.

Look pretty good to me. I think the Mattracks are going to be much more expensive and make the truck almost useless other than around the house/farm/property.