ShawnW

The H6 3.0 alternator should fit. Its about 100 last I checked. SVX is probably possible at 95 Amps but I haven't tried to fit it.

I would be too curious not to.

At 95K if there isn't any head gasket issue (unlikely at that low), I bet you will be fine. Just bring those fluids along for the drive home and allow extra time.

Cool, good to see you here. Great cars and I agree, urban assault is a good description.

I saw a hatch today at UPAP Denver. It was a bright red Impreza Wagon. I talked to David: He said he could swap the glass from the one to the other if you want the color to match on the liftgate. Which specific code numbers are you getting?

Do it!

Next door to me is a nice little glass shop, give David a call at Absolute Auto Glass. Tell him I sent you. (720) 299-3775

They are pretty handy (the right side one).

Looks like a score to me. Would be a candidate for a 4wd swap, or leave it stock, restore a little here and there since its almost pristine.

The books or a video? The Subaru training is essentially a lab environment and technicians reference booklets.

Something super solid thru a hole in the flywheel.

Lock it with the flywheel and use a breaker bar with a cheater pipe. Its a standard bolt. There is a crankshaft seal behind the pulley.

What are you trying to put on the roof? The bars will be very close together or are you just going to use 1 bar?

Please call me when you are going to go. Would like to tag along or bring a ride along too.

Thanks guys.

Its not all perfect but I like how you think. 3 o2 sensors, large wiring harness to add to the car, fuel pump control unit if you dont use a 2001 engine, there is still a chain in there and while it lasts a long time its not necessarily a forever item, huge alum chain cover likes to leak, scanner required to pull codes.....

It is but I still think its worth it. Time spent finding, building, and making XT6 stuff work is pretty extensive. I really like that it has the disc in drum ebrake setup instead of just a caliper and its cable. Could also work a group buy and combine shipping, do it when exchange rate is advantagous, etc to make it cheaper.

Most would say step one, remove carb. Step two: Toss in scrap bin. Install weber carb. I think if you have 1 minor symptom or its just gummed up from sitting its probably worth rebuild kit and time. If its got multiple problems, toss it. Essentially its like any carb. Pull apart and lay it out as you take it apart. Take notes and replace a gasket at a time out of the kit physically matching up each little part. Usually comes with a diagram. Try to get a kit from Subaru if its still available.

I can mail you a castle, washer and cone washer. $7.50 with shipping. Call 720-440-1662 to pay credit card. Paypal is shawn@retroroo.com and be sure to include a shipping address in the transaction if you do that. (and remind me what you wanted). Shawn

Correct. There's a right and a wrong but essentially it works for the differential lock or 4wd on a pushbutton 4wd Loyale style car. Hook a vac line source to it and a line down to the trumpet head looking thing on the drivers side of the transmission and press the button/flip the diff lock switch and see if it moves or not. If not switch the vac source and trans ends.

I would never grind the valve itself unless you have a valve grinder and do it off the head. I have a huge box of shims that I gathered from the salvage yard and from junk heads. I have shipped sizes out before and loaned them to dealers who didn't want to wait 4 days for new ones.

DenCol in Denver should have it. They are at I70 and Washington, the bright yellow buildings on the corner.

The wiring is very similar to the naturally asperated Ej22. Less than 5 wires if I remember correctly. Honestly, I would just put an Ej22 in it. Lots of issues to solve like fuel delivery (pump and lines), engine crossmember notching, and such to do either way but running the turbo engine with the little EA71 style radiator might be pushing it.

I don't think the cams are going to be hard to figure out, just a matter of figuring out who can make them. Its just a copy of the front lobes. Isn't this going to shake like crazy and make the whole design of the boxer engine a moot point? Getting the injectors to work is probably a matter of the cam and crank sprockets or maybe running a distributor with a rotor that points to both plug wires at once.

Use the ea82 rack, the ej lines and be done. Last one I did was a simple bend of a line and a little longer rubber hose and it was done. The old 90-99 pumps might be easier and they have a reseal/rebuild kit available.