ShawnW

Honestly if you have the means to weld/mill the intake I would certainly be tempted to do that. Especially if you can make it so you can use the tall air filter for the Weber. Different hitachi....the ea81 hitachi and the ea82 hitachi here are slightly different but I don't know over there if it would be. (assume you are in AUSTRALIA) but that could be a dumb assumption.

Sorry. A severely low tire could make this feeling for sure. I assume you remembered to plug in the AT connectors when you put the engine back in. Its amazing how many things work even though the electrical stuff isn't plugged in. Im not saying the trans would though. Fuse holder: Its just there to make a connection of a wire. It doesnt matter what fuse size it is at all I believe it just grounds a wire even. You can drive around a pretty long time like that and I have helped wire up switches to the dash for people that felt they got better gas mileage with the rear electronically switched off. I disagree that it helps but I didn't mind doing the switches. I personally think that if you have a 2500 pound car going down the road and you have and engine moving it that it doesnt matter if 2 or 4 wheels can power it down said road. If you were to remove all the 4wd pieces like driveshafts, differentials and rear subframe pieces to make the car lighter then maybe it would help.

Thats exactly what it reminded me of the first time I drove it!

Cool car. I personally love that color. That rear differential is awesome. I have never seen a Subaru of this era with that gear ratio let alone an LSD unit.

If the plan is to make it a Dual Range I would buy a whole parts car that is wrecked. I assume you would have an early version of what we call a Legacy here that has a D/R 5 speed. Gut the whole car and put the trans and engine in the hatchback. The rear diff would work even. You are going to need the rear subframe from a 4x4 including a very hard to find hatchback 4wd fuel tank. The tank on these is shorter than the others. I think the rear suspension and subframe can come off any ea81 body vehicle. The gas tank is going to be a pita to get there I am afraid. Heck pretty hard here too as most of the yards punch a hole in the bottom. If you want a motor/shortblock shipped there I could check into it. Lots here.

I got hassled for it here glad to hear they are more reasonable out there.

Looks good. You might consider putting your license plate on the brushguard to keep the cops off your case.

At very slow speed you can't hear it it just gets a little noisy around 10-15 mph Im not sure you would be able to hear it from under the car at all. I have driven it on jack stands thru the gears and can't hear anything but I have the exhaust, engine, etc to contend with.

If it goes away with load or fuel its not considered KNOCK is more likely PING. Could indicate you need to do a tuneup, your knock sensor may be bad, or your gas is junk. Might even have excessive water in the fuel tank.

They were easy to get on felt like they belonged on it. My buddy Max runs a similar setup in his rallyx car but his car is too noisy to notice if the diff makes this noise. The only thing I found odd during the installation was turning the rear wheels seemed a little difficult by hand after all was together.

Dig a little deeper thru the forums here there are tons of people that have already done the swap and writeups on how to do it. PM me if you are having trouble with finding info.

Right, no noises before the diff swap.

I just got done swapping in an LSD from an 85 RX Sedan with 104K on it into my Impreza. I used the RX external stubs and Legacy rear axles from a 91 Turbo. Everything fit as I figured it would. It makes a weird clicking noise when I roll down the road in gear or out. I used Synthetic 75W90 gear oil and a bottle of BG LSD additive. This has been fine in the past on old gen LSD conversions. Ideas or suggestions are appreciated. I did do the disc brakes and rear struts at the same time as the LSD swap but don't think thats necessarily the problem.

But if I had to spend money which I do about once a month at a minimum I would buy Genuine Subaru Head gaskets and let them keep their $100 bolts. I re-use the bolts on every engine from the 70's to present and the factory manuals have never stated to replace them.

Small world indeed.

Extend the pipe to the end of the bumper and you will be fine. EGT is only really used by Turbo/Supercharger swap guys.

Thanks for the link.

Having the heater on max doesn't change anything. I turn it on once to make sure heat is coming out the vent and then shut it off. Otherwise it takes all day to bleed the air out and hear the fan cycle on and off. Look up Spill Free Funnel if you haven't already got one.

We have pretty clean examples running around here and not nearly as bad a drive. Go south and get on Amtrak somewhere, ride out, and drive one home. Happy to help with it if you want.

Perfectly square or it will drive you nuts with a vibration. Seen twice 1st hand. Both got 1 piece made later.

Absolutely! In fact any locals that want to come see it in person come see it in person before installation. PM for a phone number/address if you don't already have them. Of course call before coming too. Needed to be said after all the idiots on craigslist that have called asking for an address and then complained when I wasn't home. 4 in 5 years isn't that many but enough to be annoyed and laugh.

Ill be sourcing those thru Marshall with MWE axles.

The paper gasket from the dealer will hold if torqued properly. With a torque wrench.

If I have a motor out that has 5 years or 100,000 miles on it I always do the headgaskets even a 2.2L or 1.8L pushrod. I just did my mom and dads 2006 Outback engine with 94,000 on it as they was a small seep spot on the RH head starting. They also live over 700 miles away and I don't want to fix the car at their house.

Pretty cool! Might get the inside sandblasted and coated while you are at it.