ShawnW

There are 16" forester steelie wheels that are stamped silver and look decent. Most of the Subaru alloys are very easy to clean. You could downgrade the brakes to standard 00-04 brakes from a not 6 cyl outback as well. I would just run Hawk brake pads or something upgraded at least with this.

Ive got my moms 98 Outback Limited for sale. Its got a rebuilt Ej25 with 30K or so on it, auto, dual sunroof, leather heated seats, the works. Runs and drives great. Only issue, and I may have fixed it, is the starter doesnt engage sometimes with the ignition switch. I have a backup switch (hidden) installed for when it doesn't work that has worked great and I just cleaned the contacts on the inhibitor switch and that may have been the culprit. Its also been in a very minor front end accident. I have replaced everything that needed it. A few brackets got silicone instead of replacing the whole unit. I had to put a new hood on it and replaced the top radiator support as it was slightly bent. Radiator and engine were not affected, bumper got replaced. Its up here in Westminster, has an Iowa title but was only there for 2 winters has been out here more than there in the time they have owned it. Only thing it might need is a cam seal replaced on the LH bank. I could do that before you take it or you can do it and take a discount on the cost. Not a terribly hard job just timing belt and a cam gear. Vin verification has been done and it passed emissions already. E test might be expired as I went out of town for 45 days and I think they only last 30 but I will re-do it if needed. PM me to discuss or call me 303-641-7947. Photos here: http://picasaweb.google.com/Gen2Brats/1998OutbackPhotos20100806

I could build you one at a reasonable cost PM me for details.

I think the extra weight is worth it. A hatch might have a smaller wheel base or be lighter but thats just the way it is. It isn't necessarily an advantage. Sometimes an obsticle is X distance apart and sometimes its not maybe you would have both tires on solid and the hatch wouldn't or vice versa. You just have to take what comes and adapt to it. I personally love having a 4 door. The speaker locations are better, cargo space is better, roof rack can hold more, parts swap from more vehicles and you aren't stuck with having a hatch only driveshaft, gas tank, etc so often.

I never finished them. Differences in the shaft as indicated above made me wonder if I would be required to use the EJ viscous which would mean not having diff lock. Frankly the project isn't worth it if: 4.11 or 4.44 gears dont work with a locking center diff. The other problem is most of us with the ambition to do a transmission up this way would also either already have or have plans to do an EJ swap. Personally I don't want the old EA trans, its flywheel, clutch, etc if I can have an EJ trans with any sort of low range and 4.11 or 4.44 gears and a non locking center diff I would rather have that and no bellhousing adapter. For what 3 donor trannys (or more) costs you are getting a great deal closer to the price of having one from overseas. Just a matter of finding someone reliable to ship them over. I am working on this. I think the best EA trans you could make without much for real parts swapping is a 3.90 FT4wd RX trans. It could be done with the low from the 3.9 and the ring and pinion from same. Combined with addtitional power from a 2.2 or 2.5 (or 3.3 or 3.0) engine I don't see a need to go much further than that.

I typically pull the engine to do the valve adjustment. I also don't bother doing it until the head gaskets are leaking or some other engine job is in the works. I don't use the special tool I just measure, remove the cams, install the correct shims and re-assemble. New cam seals, sealant and VC gaskets. Pretty big PITA to do in car with the tool. Its awkward and time consuming.

No but every item on the 2.5 intake can be moved over to a 2.2 intake if you use a 95, 96 or 97 EGR intake manifold. Thats TBI, piping, sensors, the whole thing. NO CEL's the last 3 I did.

We can harp on people to search but if they aren't finding it I would request that you go ahead and search a little and see if you find a thread that has the right answer in it. The related threads at the bottom of this page actually pointed to this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=23684

I honestly dont think its worth not changing the transmission too. Those are great transmissions, the AWD is fun year round and not having a binding situation on those half slippery pavement and half dry is nice. The mileage drop is not that significant and the 3.70 actually offsets part of it.

They are solid and the sleeves are cast around the block. Varies on location and what cast aluminum is going for. Call around with the yellow pages and ask what cast alum is selling for before going.

While I understand and agree with you I think in this case it was best to start with a rust free (majority) example. Putting that much welding, fabrication and good old heart and soul (not to mention cash) into a rusty brat would have been absolutely stupid. This brat was and now still is incredible. Even if it is Orange.

Swap the intake manifold from the original engine and drill and tap the cylinder head for the egr pipe to go into.

Im doing almost exactly the same thing out here in Colorado and delivering them vast distances at times if the $ and timing are right. I don't even touch 90-94's anymore they are great cars but don't return any pay for the effort at the end. Tried and failed. A few imprezas here and there but people tend to hold onto those or just beat them into the ground.

Come out for the Nationals its absolutely a fun time and for $120 its a lot of racing. Also a great place to pick up some tips and tricks. Fountain is just south of Colorado Springs.

Im not saying you shouldn't do it. The motor is robust. Its huge though and sometimes there is a reason that you will be the first to take on a project. I am willing to cut down the harness to the minimum for $400 if you need help with that. I have done a wiring chop for a couple vanagons that used this motor.

Nice post Larry thank you.

Information here please PM me if you are planning on coming as I will try to help with information and anything else I can think of. http://www.scca.com/event.aspx?hub=2&event=16211

It gets dirty and restricts the amount of air going out the vents. A dirty one will also make the defroster work harder and leave more slime on the inside of the windshield.

Im with MilesFox on this one its fine. See if you can put 60K on it in 5 years and replace it again.

NOT MINE just found it: http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/pts/1868771219.html

Hey nerd do you want me to send you some shifter stuff or do you have enough core pieces these days?

Carefully and possibly a piece at a time. Penetrant and patience, pliers on the center and pull out gently.

You might just check the pull a part yard out by the Airport for a car with a new looking radiator. Pretty common on these is to have a gasket, waterpump or thermostat problem and somebody tosses a new radiator in thinking it will fix the problem but it doesnt so they scrap it. Been to that yard twice and both times it was OK, nothing like Denver for number of Subaru's but still ok.

$50 for an ECM? ARe you going to the pull a part yards here? PM me I can point you towards yards that are not that expensive.

Pretty cool I would love to have one of those.