ShawnW

I have one you can measure that was made for the swap.

They are completely computerized now theres no need for the paper catalog. They just don't know how to get into the right area its under MV usually.

Take the Brat. Sell the EA82 Wagon. Fly out here to Denver and get another Outback I see those for $2000 or less now sometimes.

I have helped with a 3.0 Swap and I truly think this is the way to go. Its going to be a lot easier to use its Auto trans as well because you could just use the entire engine and transmission harness. Finding a 2001 Outback that has been wrecked is going to be as easy as finding an SVX was IMO. Klodes salvage auction would be a great place to start. Honestly I have to ask why though. The Forester is available in a turbo model and is fantastic this way. When I helped with the 3.0 swap it was for a gutted, caged, impreza being used for RallyX and eventually Rally America. He needs torque and it fits the bill nicely.

I would agree this is a good fix in this situation. A switch in the dash and run a pair of wires to the wire plug where the FWD fuse holder is.

I did and the acorn lug nut ended up having a hole thru the end but otherwise it worked ok. This was with a stock alloy wheel 13" thru a brake drum on the rear of my 84 Brat. Still a little peeved at WJM for this thread. I see his point but honestly a factory Subaru part works fine if you need longer studs. I have a feeling a stamped steel wheel might not fair as well as it would sit further down on the stud.

If you have access to another ECM I would try that. Seems a little bizarre to have 4 that drastically different at once.

I won't likely ever do yellow again. They look awesome in person but bad in pictures. They also show stains rather badly but then again that looks kindof cool depends on what you stain it with. Moab dirt would look great. Please step up and buy one so I can move onto the next color and style.

It doesnt work with the ea81 Power Steering pump. Its alot easier with just the alternator and not the A/C compressor.

What is the car doing completely off the trail?

Come out to Denver and get me.

I wish it was closer to Westminster I would fix it for you.

What about switching the front hubs out and swapping the rear brakes to the car? Are they so different that it wouldn't work?

Agreed but also cringe a little. Look at that car. Thats an M5. Amazing car and not cheap. People show other peoples property absolutely no respect and door ding it, key it, and other crap. Most of the people I know that own one of these cars are pretty nice guys and gearheads but I would tend to think that there are quite a few rude and stuffy people driving them that only drive it because it says BMW on it and they don't know hardly anything about it. Most people can't park their car to save their life and bring people to park like this so that they can get out of the car and when somebody does what GD suggested doing they might have a chance to get in/out of the car somehow.

Seems like you are attacking that car like a bull in a China shop. Why are you changing all that just to put 4 cams in it?

So not trying to be a jerk but why did you change it at all if it ran before? That or maybe you popped a fuse for the battery hot/ign on wires to the ECM. Be sure you have a fuse on these if you don't already.

Make sure you aren't concluding it wont start because its hot. If you floor it does it backfire or anything? Take a spark plug and plug it into one of the spark plug wires and lay it on solid metal and then watch it. Id probably start with the coil if it isn't getting spark. You can test one with a volt meter.

I dont think they are sold separately if you are talking about the piece that is on the edge of the glass top itself. If you are talking about the gasket that is exposed when the glass is removed from the roof that is probably still dealer available.

Almost every one I have seen has been completely rotted away inside because they didn't leave anyplace for crap to not collect inside the bumper in the winter.

Like the ABS sensor rubbing or something like that?

Another vote for End links. You can check ball joints rather easily with a prybar between knuckle and control arm and watch for movement.

Junkyard? I have gone in and bought 5 for 10 bucks. Not hard to remove.

Chances are pretty good that if it chewed up the hub the axle is also damaged. Along with the tapered washer.

Why don't you drive it up to Cheyenne and back? I have had a couple old Subarus that wouldn't pass and had been thru countless short trips and no long ones. This cleaned the engine, exhaust, etc out and made it run great. I also run Premium around here in most of my cars it seems to be worth it for the gas mileage if you have a good tight engine. 44K is pretty subtle and I doubt it would sway your readings at all.

You can turn the rack off the car with a rag and vise grip. Rotate it all the way to one end and then start counting rotations. When you reach the other end take your total and divide by two. Set it at that point. Install and tweak with the knuckle from the column to the rack or by unbolting the steering wheel and airbag (careful here!) and set wheel back to center. I usually take a moment to consider doing front struts as well since you are going to need an alignment. You might get away with it if you take all the tie rods and such but even then its a different car that you got the rack from.