ShawnW

SWEET! Its about time you got that thing back on the road! I found a not cracked blue dash for mine the other day.

Sure sounds like the fuel pump or filters to me. Check the outlet from the fuel filter at the front under the hood to see if any comes on when the key is cycled to ignition on and then off.

If you can keep oil and coolant in that thing it will serve you better than the Infiniti especially in Winter Park. Most of the problems I have seen with those are hoses on the inlet tubes. They are real brittle after this many years of heat.

I do a little bit of everything as long as its a Subaru. Im in Westminster near the turnpike/92nd/Sheridan. You can email me at shawn@retroroo.com or my site retroroo.com has a contact me page. 303-641-7947

All my contact info is on my site at http://www.retroroo.com or you can call me 303-641-7947.

We drive a lot more miles per year than most countries average driver does. I can see it being lower overseas to account for this. I recall it being a time interval as well like 8 years or 105K miles. I still think 60K is a good idea. I do the belt every 60, and the WP and belt idlers every 120.

Im closing this thread because it is illegal to gut a catalytic converter and we can't promote this activity. At the same time I am not deleting the thread or information and I know I can't stop any of you from doing this. Furthermore. A modern catalytic converter can actually make an NA car run better than a gutted car. Back pressure is necessary. A bad catalytic converter is a very common problem. Adding a smaller one behind the old one that is gutted is not as good as leaving it where it was. It needs to be closer to the heat to both do a good job both in providing the most efficient air cleaning but also in making power most efficiently. A good DIY repair involves a 2 in 1 out catalyst, and recycling the old one is actually a money maker at a scrap yard. This can actually be a cheap repair. We also try to be environmentally friendly here. I don't want internal combustion, cars, and car modification to go away any time soon so lets keep them clean, efficient and powerful. It is entirely possible to do all 3.

Send me a parts request list via email I can probably get everything delivered by my parents next time they visit. shawn@retroroo.com

It might be but then you have an additional coolant line to run, break, and deal with. The electric is already there with a factory wire you can use and most of the ones I have done or seen utilized the spade from the factory harness.

That flange is shot too though. It may be worth it to take it to an exhaust shop and have it welded instead at this point. They would cut out the flanges and put a sleeve connection there. It wouldn't disconnect at this point anymore but you can still take the entire exhaust down rather easily still. Try all OEM as suggested first. New donut, new spring bolts and springs including the SS nuts. Torque with two wrenches evenly between the bolts until they wont tighten anymore. Don't over think this repair. If it doesnt work with OEM gaskets and parts move onto my exhaust shop suggestion. Ive had many of these types of fixes in the 20-40 dollar price range at little exhaust shops over the years. Save your efforts for another aspect of the car that needs attention instead.

Tire pressure will affect a little bit but not much. Are they studded tires? Do you have another set of tires you can switch on to see if its truly the tires and not wheel bearings?

If its anything like my Snap-On 3/8 ratchet its all about the CFM of the compressor. If you don't have a big guy like an 80 gal compressor feeding that tool it might not be up to the task. Some small compressors actually have the CFM of a big one too if you shop carefully. That being said my Snap-on one will take these off about 80 percent of the time. The rest of the time I use the tool to hold the cam to the other cam and I do like the 25MM wrench option but I don't like taking the valve covers off if I don't have to.

Napa, Carquest and Autozone all have sold me just the pump.

What are you installing the 2.2 in then?

The HF mask I have with the auto darkening has been just fine. I wouldn't go cheap on the wire though. Remember using gas means you don't spend as much in wire and get a lot better weld eventually at a lower cost spread over time. The wire at Home Depot has been OK in my welder but the wire I have been buying from a welding supply has been significantly better and cost the same.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=116223

Looks like you need to add this car to the shop talk contest. This much fabbing, customizing and welding in what looks like a dirt driveway is certainly impressive.

The threads are so sunk down into the crankshaft I don't think it will work to insert it. Theres not enough material around the edge to get one in there.

Those are some great shots. I love the solid axle look under the brat body.

So what happened in court?

That looks threaded into the carb am I wrong?

It would certainly be easy to forget to plug in a cam or crank angle sensor. Also pretty easy to forget to plug in the coil pack.

shawnw@ultimatesubaru . org

Except 4 cam engines don't fit in the frame rails of an ea81 body which is part of what was being discussed in the thread. For anybody with a Legacy or Impreza body nevermind that, it will fit.

No but thats kindof expensive. You might check at the parts counter for a factory magnet drainplug for the engine they were using them for the 2008 Turbo Recall/stop sale and they work good.