ShawnW

As soon as I find some more shafts like mine I will get a set made and a price. Guess right now is $120/ea, exchange for any stock Subaru axle. I am working with MWE on getting these so they are sweet axles. My inner cups aren't legacy spline but that can be switched very easily. Pretty enough to put on the kitchen counter.

I have 2 pairs and 2 spares one set is NOS in box..

It eventually died, or it stumbled, or it just plain kept running perfectly? I highly doubt its the computer unless its a Turbo EFI model but even then. If its carb'd the computer has nothing to do with it running or not just how it runs. I would lean to the ignition/fuel pump relays if its the 3rd option but I haven't ever heard of a Brat doing that. Is it a Turbo? All the turbos are 83/84 but some people misread the build date and its possible a couple got carried over to 85 year I suppose but its unlikely.

I think they owe you 10 wheel studs and 10 chrome acorn nuts from Subaru.

Thanks again. I have my 5.0L WRX right now.

Front is 25" Rear is 23.5" and replaces the short section as well so it goes all the way to the hard line straight to the rear disc caliper.

Does that have a flat 4 engine in it?

Might price/call a Subaru dealer and see if you can buy the airbag test harness used to diagnose bad airbags. We used to remove one, plug in the harness and road test the car for a few miles. If the airbag light was on and now off that meant the rest of the system, harness, etc was good just the airbag itself bad. Otherwise you could unplug the airbag control module and not have airbags on the entire car. None of the replies are liable for anything on this thread by the way. Do any solution, at your own risk and realize the dangers/precautions beforehand.

Which transmission did you end up with? Legacy if I read right but like me I bet you change your mind as you go with the build. :-) I have a 5MT D/R in mine right now so I have ea81/ea82NA spline axle shaft inboard and Impreza/Legacy/Forester outboard. The hard part is the shafts I need to find more.

If you don't have the front axles solved let me know I can get you a set made here.

Ive got my 4" lift ones for sale from my ea81 wagon and I think they would work. Marketplace has the ad.

Post a photo of the routing of your fuel lines you may have one hooked up wrong.

The biggest hurdle is finding a good hose company to make the custom hoses. After that its pretty easy. Compressor to custom lines to original evaporator and condensor is usually easiest. Putting a 134 receiver/drier is also a good idea.

Sorry but this is wrong. He listed the correct fluids. I am certified by Subaru on transmissions both auto and manual up to 2009. They put in a fluid that they shouldn't have put in. Now you really should have the trans flushed, at a dealer, to get it all 100% Subaru HP fluid. It may be hard to find a dealer that has a dedicated flush machine or is willing to do this but this is the absolute best fix. Also, get their JUNK AT filter off your car and frankly, stop using Jiffy Lube. I have seen more screw ups by quick lube places on Subarus than I care to count.

Red Cone or bust. Still a goal for me. Mine is in the garage being resurrected this month. Stop by and check out the progress next time you have a few minutes. Good to see you here again!

Hi, hit me up if you need help/advice I am a half hour away.

Guys and gals. Please ask more follow up questions or link to similar threads if you want to point at common problems/solutions. Relax and read the posts closer. Jumping to conclusions or known/common problems is getting a little fast trigger happy around here. While you could be right the likelyhood is pretty low. He just put an engine in the car and then promptly had a problem with the AWD system?!? How about something unplugged, pan crushed because the guy jacked the car up with the transmission pan, etc. Why didn't anybody suggest pulling the code out of the transmission? Fluid level, condition. Check engine light on? Miles on the transmission and car?

Agreed but they are 15" and many new model brakes won't work with a 15" wheel. I agree you could weld the beam but I would put reinforcement bars all the way across if I did that, simply welding might result in a weak spot in the center.

Good luck. Careful in those flip flops.

To clarify, might not be necessary: If your check engine light is on...you probably have an emissions code for evap system leak or similar and its probably this filler neck is rotted out.

He scraps a lot for sure. It isn't what they do to them which I can't describe but better what he doesn't do. He doesn't machine anything beyond where it should be, use small balls in large cages, crappy grease, crap boots, etc. I think the other advantage is he knows the difference in the models and only does Subaru axles and sends the right axle in the first place.

Please don't bump a post that has replies to it. Reply with follow up questions or something but don't just bump it. The suggestions above are all very valid. Missed diagnosis of wheel bearings being bad instead of axles is clearly a possibility here. I can get you MWE axles if you want to try those. I think they are the best and I have watched them being redone, I guarantee most of the re builders aren't as meticulous as his shop.

The 2008 and newer are said to not work but I haven't verified yet.

You replaced the one with a blade type single wire sensor or the plug type with 2 wires going to it and a brown electrical connector?

I like the real crush rings. I buy them in bulk thru my shop. The Fumoto valve is pretty neat but at $25 for every Subaru I have it adds up.