ShawnW

My parts manual doesnt show a set just individual locks.

Yes.

Last time I did exchange rate, shipping, etc it came to $1000 but the nice thing is you can actually stop, find parts for the car later, and the rear ebrake is pretty darn cool. My 83 is sitting in the driveway tonight with 2009 WRX wheels, 2000 2.5RS front brakes, outback rear brakes, impreza struts.....

Point to Denver, crash on my couch, and head home!

Not all shops are crooks. It only takes 1 bad apple to make all of them look bad but there are some great shops out there. I take great offense to this comment even though I know you aren't talking specifically about me. If you can fix your car yourself by all means do it but not everybody can. I have had numerous cars towed to me where a do it yourselfer tried to fix something themselves and made it far worse, spent an entire day on something that is quick for me, etc. The wear indicator on a brake pad can come off. Some are just slid onto the side of a pad and most new brake pads only have one indicator per axle on the Subarus. You can be pretty low on brake pad and not have it squeel but nobody here can speculate any better than visually looking at your car. I agree with GD here, they should have just removed the brake pads on one caliper and showed you.

I wouldn't do it. The 4-runner is closer. I think a Tacoma V6 4door with long bed would do a better job since it is longer. Or of course a Tundra. It all depends on how often it will see towing duties and how often it won't. If its once to the lake and once back a year it might be fine but why risk it? The struggling up and down the hills might be worth it for the gas savings the rest of the year not having a huge engine and gas tank to fill. Its still exceeding the rating and if you have to slam on the brakes or make an evasive maneuver of some kind its going to be very dangerous.

I think 85 Ea82 Carb is worst...when it has cruise, ac and ps.

Air suction valve silencers. Heres a start on blocking it off. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=107958&highlight=Quarter Honestly I would just replace the reed valve and leave it factory but if you are going to put a weber on it block it off.

Start with some basic troubleshooting. Verify spark on both sides of the coil pack. He says it eventually dies. When it does will it restart or do you have to wait a while, etc?

Take a drive down to Westminster if you want to take a look at my car. Just got the 5 lug done, deciding on the front lift kit height still, have the 2.2L swap in for years.

And that is fine up to 2004. After that you have to be careful what you put in.

The reason it doesnt sound right is that a 2005 has a bolt in wheel bearing assembly. That price is right. Pull the axle, 4 14mm bolts hold the bearing into the knuckle. Tap with hammer on outside to drive it out. Line up the 4 bolts and slowly pull the bearing into the knuckle with the threads and light soft mallet taps on the inside.

They have miracle photographers! In person some of it looks tiny, strange, etc! Its also nice to see in my local store what is being returned often. Its pretty obvious one of the air compressors in the 60 gal size is real garbage and one is real decent for the $.

Youre half right. The skid scenerio is more likely than my wheel coming off scenerio but it happened once at the dealer I worked at. The axle is certainly on in that case but the nut wasn't and the bearing was completely locked up. The play in the hub was huge and the wheel was in the ditch and the car in the middle of Interstate 25. I saw the car on the news before leaving for work and wondered if it was a Subaru only to find an hour later a Tow Truck backing into my bay. Advising people to wait until their car sounds like a helicopter type noise is rediculous though. Its time to get it fixed now. What difference does it make if he gets 10,000 more miles on it, hes still gotta fix it and better now than when the tow truck is required.

In my experience, I have never seen the exhaust fix this code. Don't feel too bad that you have new O2 sensors, those are like spark plugs to me, higher interval, should be replaced every 80-120K miles. I have seen: Fuel Pump/Pressure Problem Dirty Air Flow Meter Disconnected air box. 2 Air filters installed on vehicle. Only the small box to the passenger side is to have one. Not the one behind the throttle body. Spacer belongs here. If you have an air filter that is cut to allow air thru this gap get the dealer part ($55-70) last I checked. Yes I have seen cars where people tried to make do with an air filter rubber seal instead.

Wrong. TPMS does not talk to the ECM in any way. It communicates with the BIU (Body Integrated Unit) the the LAN system. In this case it doesn't affect anything except the light being illuminated on the dash for the tire warning system. NO check engine light, flashing cruise light, etc. VDC is not affected. Cruise control is only affected by certain transmission or engine codes. Please stop guessing at answers. These electronic systems are not generic to any make/year/model. This is a specific question about a certain year and model Subaru and has a clear, concise answer.

In California labor rates are some of the highest in the country. Hes already found one that is pretty low for the state.

Noise is the part demanding attention. Worst case scenerio, the wheel can come off. That what the job books for. They go bad early like this if the car has ever encountered a curb or if the tech that installed the bearing didnt do it right, or if the hub wasn't inspected for distortion while it was apart previously. As noted, you can replace the spindle but most shops will want to align the car after this method which is usually another 1.5H labor so you will have a used bearing and at least 2.5 hours labor into the job anyway, not to mention the cost of the used spindle which is probably just as expensive if not more expensive than a wheel bearing. The bearing is replaced on car at a Subaru dealership using a Hub Tamer device. This is accepted practice and "by the book" for Subaru Of America.

And this is exactly my point. Its a 15 year old timing component. I would agree with you that its a very reliable component but its hard to beat a complete new unit with new bearing.

1997 is the year they changed them and it was mid production year. If you change the bracket behind the tensioner and idler assembly you can use whatever system you want. Despite what people will tell you, there isn't an advantage to either one. Both are just as good so long as they are serviced and installed properly which is key. The old system must be moved over and then the tensioner bolted to the bracket during timing belt procedure. The new system can't be tensioned in a vice properly and needs to be retracted in a matter of 5-10 minutes, slowly, with even pressure. The older style one can be retracted and pinned in a vice but again, very slowly. Easy to blow the seal on either one. I say there is no benefit to either at this point because the old kind is just that...quite old by now. The new system you get a fresh bearing with a tensioner in one unit. I replace this style every time unless the customer declines it. If you have a tensioner failure its far cheaper to buy a new tensioner than the old tensioner and bearing.

They sell filters for hi and low that can help with this. XM/Sirius radio kit might be an option. Pretty easy to install and keeps a factory look, no change of head unit (which is a PITA on this gen Legacy/Outback) Lots of the stations that are on the AM dial are also on there.

Jerry is around just not on USMB much anymore. A usual fleet Roo's over at his place as usual as well mostly Impreza these days. Hes got a T-Coupe, OBS, 97 Impreza, wife has a WRX, and a hatch that might need parted out more than fixed.

You need compete sets. Intake, harness and ECM must match. Or just get a stand alone engine management.

Its Karma man! Help them, they help you. We certainly are outnumbered and certainly go places that might get us into trouble sometimes. I don't like Jeep products but their owners can certainly be handy when you snap an axle in the middle of nowhere.

If its a 1996 2.5L engine and the valve covers have 16 Valve stamped to them you have hydraulic lifters and there is no valve adjustment necessary. I am amazed at how many head gasket jobs are done in car. My back hurts thinking about bending into an engine compartment for that long to save a couple hours of removing and installing an engine.