ShawnW

I will be surprised if the dealer allows use of walk in parts and would verify they will before buying them. What if one bites the dust after they put the belt on? Who is buying you a new valve job or engine?

The ones I saw at the dealer were usually full of sludge which is the purpose of the device but people don't periodically check them. The installers often use hose that isn't up to the task of warm oil and blow by gas. It adds additional clutter to the engine compartment. Its still not really removing the sludge from the engine its just putting it somewhere. Over time if left neglected it could clog and increase pressure to the crank. If a hose pops off..... Frankly there is enough junk under the hood of an 80's Subaru engine compartment (at least from the factory) and adding more just eats time in maintenance, visual inspection, and repairs.

It will blink when all is well just like he described.

I disagree. In Colorado I have been approached many times in my Brat(s) by former Subaru techs from the 80's. Got a few neat factory tools over the years from one of them. Some have been a little off their rockers but otherwise nice guys.

Ive been wondering how Jeff at Crossbred Performance is doing.

The ea wrist pins are not as big around (diameter) and the EA are a lot longer. Gotta dig in the book to find the depth.

Pretty hard on the holes of the wheel(when alloy), poor contact patch, dangerous in my opinion. Probably get away with it though.

Why? I can't think of a reason to use it that way.

I usually depress the clutch to do so but you can shift to 4wd on those if you are moving without the clutch in, lift lever one notch prefered to be in a straight line.

Thats wrong. There are interference Ej22's with the old looking valve covers. No real easy way. The pistons changed so if you have a bore scope you could put that thru a spark plug hole and snap a photo. $500 device though. Love mine.

I dont see any big reason to not use it. For the most part the job is the same. Keep the plugs you have to have, cut most of the rest, and find all the sensor ones like oil pressure, coolant temp, check and memory, obd2 connector, etc. If you can find a diagram for that year/model you can certainly use it.

I have that happen too. Its as simple as writing your USMB handle on the box or on a piece of paper in the box even.

Not a bolt in if thats what you are asking. The seats are about it for bolt in.

That is the plug but shown on an EJ series engine. Its the same size and removed with the same tool. The dealer here usually stocks the block heaters, as described above its $27 USA. I haven't ever seen the brand you linked to but it looks similar to the ones I have installed here. For the most part I think these are a waste of time. A Subaru with 5w30 will start in really cold temps and heats up in a matter of about 5 minutes of driving or less.

Closing thread. 1. New users: Please try to use the search function. If you did please mention that you did but came up with further questions. 2. Veteran Users: Flaming a new user for not using search is a current but new infraction here. If you don't want to help by: 1. Answering the question. 2. Pointing them to a thread that has the info they want. Then just hit the back button and go read something else. I will award infraction points for this. Everyone: Name calling, offensive language, being a jerk.... Again, infraction points will be awarded. Get enough points you can earn yourself a real time out or a permanent ban. We are here to learn, help others, and "play well with others" There are plenty of places you can go post and be a tool and treat people poorly.

I can order you a crossbred performance kit. Full 5 lug conversion including front struts, all brakes, rear e brake conversion. This is the really class way to convert. http://www.crossbredperformance.com/

Not quite that simple. The seat frame is welded to the body. I recommend: Remove the whole frame at the welds, weld that to bars and put captive nuts in that part. Then put large washers, grade 10 bolts, etc thru from the bottom to bolt it down. The headrests mounts. The 86/87 has a metallic silver bar across the back window. One might assume these are the same mount as the headrests. They aren't. I recommend removing mounts from another brat for this as well, welding them in. Insurance liability warning: 1. Add jumpseats at your own risk. They might not be covered on your insurance in the event of an accident because they weren't original equipment. They were banned and it doesn't take much research to figure this out. 2. BE SURE TO PUT THE SEATBELTS IN and I would put them on the frame with the seats so you can remove them as well. These corrode and seize so being able to remove the seats and belts and put them in dry storage is nice. 3. Use common sense with passengers in the rear. Theres a good reason they don't install these in vehicles anymore, a few bad apples ruined it for the rest of us. Consider getting the mounts for the steps on the side of the brat put in as well, especially if you have a little rust in this area. Cut the section off with a saw and weld in with good diligence to rust prevention.

No wife/girlfriend living in the house I assume by this statement? Most would kill for that offense.

They fit in my 83 Wagon with 5 lug conversion. I need to test drive the car and haven't got it back together but they fit sweet and I don't see why they wouldn't be just fine. Ill get some testing done before we complete transaction and get the price firmed up.

Which should read I spent $40 on gas, $50 on the topper and my time.

Old post! I don't know who the mfg was sorry.

If its a dealer one its usually on the other side of the bottom of the shortblock, on the other side of the oil pan. The plug is bigger than that one but has the same size socket hole in it. These can be pretty tough to remove sometimes. Its a 14MM hex if you don't have the right socket don't try removing it.

Pretty common to have to cut those actually. Depends on what you need but price a new bolt, etc before you fight it too hard.

In almost perfect shape I could justify 250 for one, especially a GEM top that isn't fiberglass but metal instead, maybe even 300 if the color matched the Brat.

It doesnt fit inside the frame rails but people have notched them, welded in new material and put the 2.2L in then. They do the same on Ea81 body vehicles when putting 4 cam 2.5, 2.0, etc engines in as well. Thread here, broken images but good descriptions all the same. Might contact the poster to see if they have the images they can reload or email you. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=88632