ShawnW

If I remember correctly, your starter is mounted dead center on a 76DL. That means: Every trans you have chosen has the side starter, and a bell housing change is going to be necessary. Secondly, I don't know if your car has a 1400 or 1600 engine, I am not an expert on the 70's cars. If its a 1600, theres a "fat case bellhousing" you can find but its hard to locate. This is the only way to move the starter, and have a trans that can actually bolt to it. I dont know if a 1400 engine will work with this bellhousing. The XT6 tranny mentioned would be a full time 4wd 5 speed with center diff lock. Its not a dual range. The real way to do this is in my opinion, not worth it but its your car and time..... Find an 1981 GL Brat donor car and put the engine, trans, rear diff, etc in your car. The crossmember is different, the mounts are different, its a big project. For almost every one of these project ideas, you better have a welder, time, and money.

I don't think it normally makes a relay sound at all. The switch itself clicks into position but not a relay. Does the switch light up?

Those part numbers don't work on Subaru Of America dealer system if anybody was going to try a local dealer in the USA give up on that.

Part number on the ebay listing for future reference is SUSPA C16-06389

Measure your old one for me. My catalog shows a 698CBR with these dimensions. 22 13/16 x 12 15/16" x 1 1/4" If you want it I can get it for $198 plus shipping. This is a brass, high end unit.

The last one I worked with, the regulator was a real pain to get to and under the intake runners on the left side. My gut says the only place that will be able to get you one is a dealer, so if you are sure its bad, order one so you know what it looks like and go from there. You might actually have to remove the intake manifold to replace it, I recall the technician next to me at the dealer doing one and having a lot of the stuff in the engine compartment out to get to it.

Remove the engine since its your first time doing shim on bucket adjustments. And without the dealer tool, you are going to have to remove the cams to adjust the valves. Use an impact driver to break the bolts loose on the cam caps. The heads strip very easily. Be sure to have a very precise and small torque wrench for the reinstallation and pre-lube the cams as well they can seize real easily.

Are you saying the lapping compound was left on the valve and not wiped off by the technician that did the valve job? That would certainly let the heat not disburse wouldn't it?

They sell the clutches and steels for just the rear output section. I just priced it and the Duty Solenoid C the other day for a 96 and it was about 300 or so for all the parts. Also order a tube of "Fuji Bond", the Orange Silicone and use it to seal the rear section to the back of the main case. They sell a gasket, but this actually seals better IMO. Same on the pan, I use this instead. The surgery takes about 3 hours the first time you do it, and about 45 minutes the 2nd. I just replaced the rear section on the 96 one in about 20 minutes but I am a certified (ex) Subaru tech.

Cool, good to see you. Try doing a search too, lots of stuff has been covered but if you can't find it just say you tried to find it and couldn't, people will be more helpful that way.

If the valve covers are leaking I would replace them, and check the cam caps to make sure they haven't backed off. If anybody has been in the engine to do head gaskets, etc they may have messed up the threads in the front caps and they may have walked out a little bit. If they aren't leaking this is a little more frustrating to check as the grommets, spark plug gaskets and valve cover gasket are a little spendy.

Can someone link a thread from the SVX forum here on the alarm please?

Id like a soft topper (for my Tacoma). I don't see the point in a topper for a Baja, I would just buy an Outback if I wanted to use it that way.

As stated, both have their gains and losses. I like the interior release myself but have never had my gas stolen before so I guess I don't care. I think someone would be more likely to tamper/vandalize your fuel than steal it.

I have seen corrosion or pigtail damage on the bottom of the engine compartment fuse panel. If the car has been in an accident this is more probable. I have also seen one that would come on with the A/C but not operate with the temp sensor, in this case it was the sensor itself. It also had a drivability issue on warm starts which was rather strange until I fixed it.

I would just scrap that block myself. But I have a few extras

I like it too, everything looks really doable to me. We are going to get good at replacing the bearings in those serpentine idlers, they are a common weakness in the H6 3.0 cars and look identical. I also love that techs in the dealerships are going to have to stop replacing 1 head gasket, in car.

Surprised I have never heard of it. Worth a try but then I haven't seen it in a store before either.

Her legacy won't turn over by the sounds of it a bad overheat. Looking for someone that will either fix her car for a decent price, or has a lead on a good Legacy Wagon. 5 speed ok, but prefer auto if possible. Email me please at shawn@retroroo.com and I will pass her info on.

Look in the gap between the PS pump and the alternator from the top.

State is Bankrupt. Its a nice place to live other than the taxes and it can't be more expensive than living in a lot of Foreign Countries?

I have never seen anything older than 1982 with Power Steering. It might be best to remove the rack and have it rebuilt by a rack company. If you are having trouble finding someone to send it to let me know I can try my place.

Moved to Older Gen forum for better response. Welcome to USMB.

Agreed!

Congrats, and welcome! Post picture if you want to share.