ShawnW

I dont think they lose the exhaust noise unless they use the later model Y-pipe like 95 and up (94 and up Impreza) have.

1996 Outback with Manual Transmission because it has a slightly more powerful 2.2L engine, and refinements, appearance package, and clearance of the Outback.

Remember, backspacing/offset is a concern here and many of our wheels are hubcentric. There are so many Subaru wheels out there for cheap just be patient and be willing to pay shipping.

I might just have to get out there somewhere for a mud event. Dry gravel vs mud almost makes the two look like AutoX vs RallyX.

There was a tentative Oregon event in Sportscar mentioned this past month I think. Miller Motorsports Park is near Tooele so I think that has to be it. Its only 20 miles from SLC or so. (Close enough a fellow CORX competitor was willing to flat tow me with a strap back to SLC). In my opinion the surfaces are pretty similar in gravel type but Miller is bladed perfectly flat and Fountain doesn't get that sort of treatment since its a Truck Driving school and not a raceway. Miller is an amazing complex and venue but I still like racing at Fountain better. It just feels like it has RallyX soul and isn't trying too hard. With Gravel rally tires either should be fine for you. Medium to Hard compound is best with a lot of sidewall strength as Fountain usually has a course that is tough with lots of tight turns (unless somebody lame from another region designs the course.--end small rant, but honestly if you let the guys get really good at gear changes, tight turns, etc and then give them nothing but huge sweeping drift turns and not so technical stuff at the National event its kinda annoying). Guys that run last years snow tires find themselves with slicks in about 4 events from what I have seen.

Moved to historic. Assuming its a 70's model which may be a mistake but 50-50 chance.

Theres an arrow pointing at 1 bolt/screw hole. Put thread locker on that one. If its a brand new stamped one with new screws from the dealer it should have a sealant on that screw already and its a different color than the others.

I am working with MWE Axles to bring you a deal thru my company RetroRoo. Sale offer: I know many of us have project cars that we either don't drive really often or that we are in the process of working on right now. This time of year I spend a lot of time and money on my projects because I don't have a lot of customer work to do. So right now, if you send me your old axle up front, I will get you a rebuilt MWE axle for $10 off the regular prices. This really helps me out in getting you the correct axle back to you, and keeps you from having to pay a core charge at all. Core charges are a necessary evil but if we avoid the process it saves me and the builder a lot of work and saves you some upfront cost. Front Axles: 1973-1999= $85.00 each now $75 2000-2004=$95.00 now $85 Shipping is $35 for one and $55 for 2. Email for larger quantities shipping prices. I use FedEx Ground which is pretty fast usually around 2-4 days or less. I can usually do rear axles for the same prices if they are EA series but email or call for details before sending a rear. If your old one is really destroyed and not rebuildable I may need a day or two extra but for the most part we have immediate or next day turn around. I accept: Money Orders Credit Cards (Visa/MC preferred) Paypal I can accept a credit card over the phone, money order can be sent with your old axle, and I can do paypal but I would prefer not to for this sale. I also have 1 ea81 front ready to go out the door if somebody I have previously transacted with wants to send the core afterwards I can do that. This sale is good thru the end of February. After that regular prices resume but you can always order one from me. Denver area locals I can install them for $60 and obviously no core charges apply for installed axles. Call for an appointment, normally installed in 30-60 minutes.

What he said, they have been real reasonably priced for me as well. Around Denver we have a lot of Hispanic owned tire shops that will mount and balance for less than $8 a wheel too so learn how to point or a little Spanish and get to it.

I could send you a used piston if you want pretty cheap. Need to know which bore its for meaning is it an A or B size piston and what year EJ22 it is for.

Yeah I went last year to the Miller Motorsports Venue Regional, was a long ride back after I developed a rod knock and had to tow my WRX home. I believe I was in 1st after two runs but I won't bring that up too strongly since that may have been the demise of the engine.

Thats kindof a neat idea!

Looks good, especially for a bathroom photo booth job.

Not the one on the front of the bolt, the one on the center of the bracket. Look from the left or right fender side across the top of the bracket.

Sweet! Not that I will see any money.

One I came up with at the junkyard about 10 years ago after I forgot a chain. I go all the way around the heads if possible but if you are at home with a chain use the Alt/AC bracket, it should have a hole through it, and as stated before the Right Rear above the bellhousing bolt opposite the starter. You can always take a bolt and a washer and thread it thru a hole on the chain and torque the bolt down.

Can you email me a photo of them? I might want them if you are willing to ship them to me on my FedEx account. shawn@retroroo.com

They are a little too long.

Kennedy Engineering or KEP.

I have seen a lot of the older model ones ripped off but agree not the newer ones. I think the tow truck guys don't use them mostly because they have small diameter holes to thread chains and cables thru.

Anybody want these?

I have had pretty good luck with those on EJ20 WRX engines here when customers request them. Unless requested though, I use Genuine Subaru only.

When you performed the wiring repair did you verify that you didnt get any shielding for the wire touching the actual wire? Its sort of like Coax cable.

Are you really going to argue this? 1. If you need to tow a car, the tow hooks are not adequate for anything other than securing the car to a trailer or flatbed truck and even then I have never seen a tow truck driver actually use them, they use larger components like the trailing and leading arms, control arms, etc to strap the car down. 2. The logic you are suggesting implies that Subaru hasn't thought this out. You are pretty far from being a Japanese engineer or an employee of Subaru of America. When they find a fault in a vehicle they have to come up with a solution that every dealer in the country is capable of fixing, in a timely manner, while you are in the waiting room. A fix that is simple, effective, cost effective, and not going to require them to put every car they built from year A to year b back thru government, insurance, etc crash safety testing. Most of the tow hooks I saw prior to the surgery were scraped very badly and rusting not from corrosion, but from people grinding them against the ground and objects. In other words, there was bare, open metal here in the first place and slicing it off isn't making the car rust any faster or slower than before. 3. You mentioned they need to spend more time in R+D. Do you know what R+D costs? How much are you willing to pay for a Legacy, or even worse SVX that was already VERY expensive when new? 4. Have you seen the in house bulletin for the tow hook slicing, and the follow ups to it in tech tips and other dealer only directions? It was advised that vehicles in the rust belt get a light coating of undercoating or flat black spray paint. Most of the ones I saw didn't ever get it but I wasn't working at a dealer in the rust belt. You are making an assumption that every car didn't get this treatment which is likely not true.

For what? I have a used set for a 99 Outback but there are variations over the years.