ShawnW

May have damaged all kinds of suspension parts, links, etc . Could be ABS sensors and the like messing around too. Don't drive it and let them decide if they are going to total it, etc. Rental car if covered by insurance for sure. If its not your fault demand exact replacement and hold your ground on the value of the car. Show receipts, miles, etc and make sure they return you to the same or better vehicle you were in before the accident.

You might look into the 2005 Baja springs they raise the car quite naturally. I try to avoid strut spacers until required as they can create alignment problems if not built properly. Looks like its a build date difference on your part numbers. One kind is for For models before 5/02 only and the other is after. TireRack.com has pretty good prices on them usually.

I think I would search car-part for a used one with low miles. They tend to be pretty tough when the fluids are serviced. Banging could be as easy as the front differential being bad and those are pretty easy bearings to change out.

I can't wait to add photos of mine. Im using the crossbred performance kit but am in the process of deciding if I want my car lifted anymore and trying to fit my tires if at all possible without the lift kit at least in the front half. Looking harder by the second though. The rear was a snap, I can't believe how easy it was. Jeff in Australia that makes these kits makes a wonderful product that I am certain people are going to want here. Everything that has been "difficult" about it has been me trying to modify the car while doing the kit installation which really complicated everything.

My turbo brat is running factory components with 134A. My VW Vanagon with 2.2L swap liked the Subaru compressor. I have done a 2.2 swap for a customer on an 88 RX and that car had BETTER A/C after I was done than brand new according to the customer. You will need to be very careful not to overcharge it, and I highly recommend putting a Receiver drier that is 134 compatible in while you are at it. I did it with the factory legacy one with no issues on the 88 RX.

Beautiful car congrats. I love my 2009 WRX hatch, same color. You might be surprised how much of a target that huge STI wing makes a car. Lots of hood trades going on out here for years. I like the hatch for this reason too, not quite as flashy.

Mine scare the ____ out of me when I slam on the brakes in my WRX. Should be fine in any GL.

Subaru of America covers parts and labor on all dealer performed repairs for 1 year unlimited miles. Not sure what Canada does though. Might be worth driving across the border if the warranty is better LOL.

I have seen intake leaks cause those 2 codes but this is more common on Impreza and Foresters from the 98-00 era that have two air filter boxes (well what looks like it). Scenerio 1 is that the air filter box isn't engaged into the tabs on the bottom and allows an air leak. Scenerio 2 is that some idiot has taken the air box spacer out and put a 2nd air filter on the car. If you can get a copy of the 96 Factory manual it will tell you how to troubleshoot that code(s). I would start with the 400 as that is less common. I would also clean the EGR valve and verify all the hoses going to the EGR solenoid are in place and not misrouted or broken. That or get a new EGR valve. The 420 codes I fixed at the dealer I replaced the cats every time and never had a comeback.

Was yours apple cored or just gummed up? I did this fix, and highly recommend the vac modulator fix, both of which I have done at least 4 times over the past few years.

Definitely make the seller send you the correct item or money back, etc. Thats not correct information. I agree I would try to find fittings that are 5/8". Its probably fine but why take the risk. I personally don't like these devices.

Nevermind: I found the drawings in the 83 Factory Manuals.

Need to see an engine compartment shot that shows generally how the lines go to and from the pump. Then one at the steering u joint area where the lines thread into the rack, and one on the other side of the car showing how the lines go across the crossmember (or whatever it is they do). On my ea81T car the lines go straight from the pump to the PS rack on the drivers side. On ea82 Carb models it appears to have a set of hard lines going across the car. They aren't ideal though, a little too long and the fittings have the o rings in them so I would have to get an adapter, etc and mess with all that. Email photos if you need to as well. shawnw@ultimatesubaru.org Thanks!

If anything is wrong with the main bearings its likely the thrust is shot so the crank is moving too much front to back not side to side. I haven't ever seen an ea81 or ea71 that needed line bored. Frankly they toss rod thru top of block or some other catastrophic failure before the roundness really becomes a problem. If I found one that way I would scrap it and move on to another one. Putting an ea81 in the car isn't as easy as it might look. It would probably be easier to get custom rods and pistons and change the stroke of the engine if you really had to have .2L more displacement.

Ive got a helicoil kit that is used. I moved on to Timeserts and won't go back. Make offer if you can wait a few days for the mail.

Agreed. I worked as a service technician for a few years and would add: Customers need to test and use accessories and the vehicle prior to purchasing it. I find that most in dash factory navigation systems are far inferior to anything after market, are expensive to update, and are harder to use than one from Magellan, Kenwood, etc. Before you drop 500-1000 dollars on an accessory make sure you actually like it, can use it, etc. I'm not picking on you specifically but making a general statement for all car purchasers. We had a customer come in complaining about her Impreza after she never test drove the car, she tried a Legacy sedan and liked it so she bought the cheaper Impreza after finding out her financing wouldn't suit her in the Legacy. She said it was loud, the seats were bad, and the stereo is hard to read and doesnt have the steering wheel controls. Brilliant.

Depends on the steel wheel. The 504 Steelie uses a really bizarre one. The alloy ones in my opinion are all the same or interchangable but still not compatible with a Subaru nut unless you use the spacer/adapter. Some folks recommend using longer studs with some of them as well as there aren't a bunch of threads to spare here and the wheels are thicker than most Subaru wheels.

Im about 30% done! Most of the work I have had to do was removing the old lift kit that I don't like anymore. Looks like I could put a kit on a car in a 10 hour day now that I have done it once. Quite a bit less if the Legacy Booster swap was skipped. I think it will be worth it to have, just eyeballing the Ea81 booster vs the legacy one its obviously 1" or more in diameter bigger and a lot more volume front to back too. Nice to be able to use the Legacy booster hose with its check valve on my 2.2 swap engine as well.

I have a snap on Cordless impact wrench that takes off things my air tools won't. It was expensive though. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=89708&PartNo=CT6850&group_id=19913 Are you trying to remove the axle nut? Did you try putting the spare tire on, put the car back on the ground, and stick the socket thru the wheel center hole?

8 btdc for an ea81 carb engine

I would put an ej18 Impreza engine and transmission in it with the SJR carb adapter and a Weber carb. Durable, good mileage, and frankly the normal power of a normal car along with very reliable. By all means sell the purple people eater engine! I would also probably put an entire cut down 83 bare bones GL harness in instead of trying to repair that BS that the previous owner did. Essentially starting from scratch but pulling the dash isn't that hard. It would be rather easy to put A/C in while you are at it.

Really not too terribly hard so long as the solenoids and electronics test out good.

I typically recommend watching Craigslist for a used Snap-On box. Often can get them for less than half the cost of a new one and they usually have the accessories that really add up with them like the drawer edge guards, cover, stainless steel top, etc. BTW I highly recommend avoiding their butcher block tops. A few guys over the years have bought those in shops I worked at and they were ugly in very little time. It only takes one idiot to set a half full power steering pump or valve cover on it and leave a stain.

I would tend to agree. There could be debris in the outer axle bearings. I think something blew the tire out and either hit the boot as well or something else. Either way I think it would make it 15 miles.

Excellent looking car!