ShawnW

You can open a new thread or reply here it doesn't really matter.

Absolutely agree I live 15 minutes from him. Out here the sun is intense enough in the winter its never that horrible like I am used to in Iowa and Chicago. Its not a horrible drive to the pacific coast, Vegas is real easy, LA not that much worse and the cars don't really rot here at all. The rusted out ones seem to be the ones that weren't washed or came from East. I moved here for a change, but also to get away from the road salt and harsh winter. The summer is pretty damn awesome here. Oh did I mention here are TONS of Subaru's here? There are. Not as many classic aged ones as Seattle,Washington area but still a lot of them.

I got one this week on craigslist that was broken for $200! I already have it fixed and working in my home shop and DAMN it works as well as the huge units I had used at my 2 previous employers. I can't seem to find a vendor or factory info line on the darn thing though as its a little older unit. "Water Works Cleaning Systems" on the front with a seahorse in its logo. No serial number, nothing on it. Oh well, I am still quite thrilled to own it.

Any of them that look fiberous on the HG I use copper spray. Any that are solid metal I never do. I don't think its absolutely necessary to use copper spray either. They are pretty good gaskets as they are.

Wow thats rather scary thought. I haven't seen it happen but here they don't corrode that bad either.

The slide pin on the caliper bracket might be different but the caliper seemed to be the same. I did both calipers from a Legacy when I swapped them on my 95 just in case there was something internally different. Worked fine but as I said I had to move the caliper bracket over too. Subaru part numbers don't always mean a whole lot and sometimes they are a terrific tool. Sometimes its the same thing just maybe installed or built in a Japanese factory vs US factory, etc.

Often you ditch the interior and then end up putting in a roll cage that weighs more than the interior you removed. Race seats can be had that are significantly lighter than stock seats, removing the passenger seat for another one, and removing the entire back seat adds up. Door panels, stereo, speakers and even removing cruise control can add up too.

While I fully feel that Nascar stinks I want everyone to remember that support for racing, racing venues, safety, insurance, the whole works come from a group effort on all types of racing. Support all of it and the whole ends up better off. We learn from Nascar, motocross, and everything else to make Rallycross better. Supporting SCCA, RallyAmerica and any other sanctioning body will help the other ones. People are taking our racing venues away far too fast. Being skeptical about what this company is addressing for safety and insurance is very valid. Make sure they join forces with the local Scca Rallycross group to make it safe, within standards, and insured so that it continues.

Im locking this thread. I normally wouldn't pay for information but once in a while something comes up that will change things for many people and I step up to the plate and spend the cash. I am starting my own Subaru shop here in Denver. Its called RetroRoo and it basically caters to people that love older Subaru's. I will agree, the information that is in this guide is already on the forum if you know where to look, trust the author, etc. Im skeptical, and have the privilage of living in the same town as Eric here. I have driven this car in the mountains for a very short time and was amazed with its capabilities and durability. I felt a guide on how to copy it was worth it to me. Most of you didn't and that is fine. I will likely be selling these hybrid transmissions at a very reasonable cost. Keep in mind it takes 3 trannys and if you want it exactly like Beefaru's unit you have to buy 2 gears from a Forester transmission to get the amazing 5th gear as well. A minimum of $300 spent in just core transmissions at the Pull and Pay yards plus the gears, seals, and my time. The price will probably be a little rediculous to some of you and that is fine with me as my time is worth something. Vendors that cater to our vehicles are few and far between. I see a need for it and can't wait to help those people that aren't equipped to rebuild a transmission on their own have one in their car. The guide may or may not be available for sale on my website later. Im still trying to decide if that is going to be worth the hassle. This thread has told me it may not be. Unfortunately that may be a case of a few people ruining a good thing for the majority. The only option I see other than these trannys is to get an EJ trans from overseas. Thats a good option for people that can get one shipped here, and already have an EJ powered EA series car. This gets expensive as well, and believe me I have done a lot of digging into it. I appreciate any comments you want to direct just do so via PM to me.

I would tuck $1250 into a fund of some kind and see if you still have the $1250 when the odometer rolls past the warranty period.

Should have a speed sensor in the speedo head at a minimum. If your trans has a speedometer cable that spins the back of the speedometer head it usually generates the signal there. Here we sometimes refer to it as speed sensor 2 because many of ours are electronic, signal generated by the tranny and send to the speedo.

Its certainly a solid engine. It shouldn't have a blown head gasket but its still possible. Its certainly doable to deck the heads flat, put new head gaskets on and be done with it for a very long time. Fix the cause of course.

To me that sounds like you didn't do it the same way that Beefaru's guy did. You came close. Back when I was trying to recreate one I came close as well. But I hit a crossroad where I could either try it, potentially break the trans, need a tow, R+R again, back to the junkyard or dealer to buy replacements, etc. Research and development is very expensive and time consuming. Ill be building these now so when you are ready to take the plunge PM me.

Yep.

Intake cams (top) have a notch that points up(12:00) and a double notch that points down. (6:00) Exhaust cams (bottom) have a notch that points at 3 o clock and a double notch that points at 12:00 Arrows on all cams will match and point at 1:30 or so. Crankshaft has a key way that points at 6:00 and a notch that points at 12:00.

I have the exact same car here! Mine has a little damage in the front end and a green hood on it but it started out the same. Someone added a nice power moonroof to this one. I added 2.5RS front seats, 95 Outback rear seat (comes pretty close to the RS pattern). I hate the tan interior. Im slowly working all the pieces out as I find them and have money. 212K miles of dirt is also being wiped away. Window tint on mine, sharpens up a black car really nice. I just finished putting a Thule rack on mine this morning what a pain in the butt to get right. I have 93 Turbo Legacy 15" alloys on mine but I like your wheels better. Car looks hilarious with a canoe on it. Its like putting a fishing hat on a baby. Anyway Ill start saving up for the ring, and the divorce. I have a lifted wagon (83) and a Turbo Brat along with a 2009 WRX. Ill bring KYB struts instead of roses for the first date.

Wow cool. I assume it does throttle position sensor?

Thats more likely the sensor in the master cylinder getting hung up in the tube it floats in. You can take it out and clean it with brake cleaner and usually it means the brake fluid needs to be flushed and may not have ever been done before.

Are you thinking its 81 Brat or 80-81 EA81 type maybe?

Sweet! Coming to Rallycross soon?

Welcome! You might like the Brat as a daily driver more but either way they make a great team.

I would check that the rotor hasn't fallen apart or something silly so pulling the cap off the disty wouldn't be a total waste of time.

Yes.

I think its just a matter of what belt came on the car from the Factory.

I was a tech at a dealership until last fall. Heres what I know. There are 3 Select Monitors so far. Current model is a Panasonic Toughbook with proprietary software on it. It connects to the car thru an interface box which is somewhat stand alone in that it has a small screen but the laptop is needed for reflashes, graphing, and a lot of other features. I believe you can buy this tool from Kent Moore, look at spending, my guess, around $6-10,000 to be up and running and dont expect any updates or help from Subaru. Its required for the immobilizer, setting up the remote start system, and many other tasks. Its a pretty wonderful device but spendy. Previous model was a unit that is similar to a snap on "brick". This is the SM2. IT has cartridges, 8 buttons and is very handy. They are tough but many are probably going to hit the market here in the next year or two because their screens died, cartridges got lost, etc. Electronics nerds will have a field day fixing these and enjoying them. Requires 2 cables. One is OBD2 type plug end, and then if you want to talk to the yellow plug older pre OBD2 cars you can by plugging a harness into the obd2 end of the normal cable. Frankly the information you can pull out of a 94 and older car with this device isn't a whole lot more than the morse code we all know and love. There is a Pre 96 cartridge that works for a ton of models, then theres a couple key cartridges you could buy to round out the set if you have a fleet or cars/shop. Looking around $2000 a cartridge last time I priced one. The unit is likely not sold by Kent Moore/dealer warehouse anymore. Airbag codes are a pita SM3 do not help with it until at least 2006 or so and morse code blinking is all the techs do as well. The SM3 is for the most part backward compatible. I never tried it with a 80's/early 90's car but I never needed to either. The Brick only works up to about 2005. I remember it working on the 2005 Outback and maybe the 2006 but after that the Toughbook or interface box or both had to be pulled out. The interface box will pull a code alone but you have to know what PO301 for example is the screen doesnt tell past the code number. It also wasn't very good at trans code diagnostic. It would give a generic number that really just meant that you needed to pull the laptop out and pull a trans code. The SM1 is pretty hilarious. Its looks like an old Atari 2600 or Commodore64 but without the TV screen. Again its cartridges but you have to have the specific year and model one in the machine to do anything with it. Slightly helpful on feedback carb systems and thats about it. I wouldn't bother buying one. I only used it twice and one of them was just so I could say I was the only current tech at the dealership to know how it worked.