ShawnW

What part "blew up"? Did you throw a rod thru the top or is it knocking or leaking....?

Smallcar.com sells an interface board that I believe takes care of that code and quite a few others. http://www.smallcar.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=29883

Id just put a muffler on that you will like with the EJ swap. For mine I am just running the stock 84 muffler.

Why do you have so many?!?

It might work to remove the four bolts from the driveshaft flange on the rear differential and try backing up with them unbolted.

Not sure. I thought about making it have a toggle switch initially. Is it more complicated than that?

We sound like years ago, except its today. Im working like mad on my 83 in the garage this week too. The whole underside front end is torn off.

Im trying to figure out if I can make this work. XT6 pump, ea81 turbo steering rack and lines. Looks to be pretty straight forward getting this part to physically hook up. I know I will have some electrical to figure out. Right now I am wondering if the fluid for an xt6 pump is going to work in the lines and rack that normally takes ATF. Potential for leaking, too thick viscosity, too thin?

I assume since you spoke with Jerry that you tried backing up slowly in a straight line with very light pressure on the hi/lo selector lever?

Regarding the headlight cutoff on the one you previously owned: I set the adjustment on the headlights to factory aim points and my parents seem to think the car has the best headlights of any car they have ever owned. Brighter than all their previous Toyota's, Fords, and their current F250 truck which has amazing lights. I firmly believe the ghost walking has everything to do with tire selection. The ones they rolled out of the factory with both Dunlop and Bridgestone are all complete junk. Running a true snow tire in the winter and an all season the rest of the year virtually eliminates this problem. Headgaskets....well thats nothing new and I don't see it going away any time soon. For any Subaru with a 2.5L engine plan on doing them every 100K miles. I would even plan my 30, 60, and 90 K services around this. In other words skip the coolant service, fuel filter replacement if your model has one, etc until the engine is being removed for the HG job. The wheel bearings are very easy to replace. They simply bolt into the back side of the hub. They make what was a 3 hour job into a 45 minute job. They are only "covered" until 100K miles. There is a shim they are using to clean the area between the hub and the bearing sort of area that does seem to quiet them down as well. These bearings are pretty robust they just get noisy for some reason from all the grit and grime. I would predict a car that never sees or rarely sees a gravel road would possibly never need them replaced.

I went through this and ended up just using some used ones off used A/C hoses that we had lying around the dealership. Honestly they don't need to be replaced any more often than the actual hoses in my opinion.

I assume the check engine light is on as well? It means your car has the cruise control locked out usually and this is a result of the check engine light being on.

I too am amazed it runs real well. You might want to post a photo of the engine compartment maybe we can tell more that way. As for the studs AST makes a tool that grips onto them. (Assenmacher). Lots of the tool trucks (Snap-On, Matco, Mac) have these or can order them. If you can limp the car down here to Westminster I can give you a hand with it. Otherwise you could weld up and make a custom header with the flanges you have or have an exhaust shop do that.

I can get you just about anything. Contact me via PM here or on my website http://www.retroroo.com

Usually for me when I cant narrow this down its the power steering pump. I have taken the belt off my GL with 2.2 swap and put that on the crank pulley and alternator alone. If the noise goes away its narrowed down to the ps pump or the belt itself. If its the pump it can be because it has an air pocket in it. Sometimes raising the reservoir and pouring a tad more fluid in than the full line before/after doing so will clear up the noise. Sometimes I loosen the pressure side of the pump and bump the starter over with the coil pack disconnected to try to "prime" it. Has also worked but rarely.

Thats the problem right there! Bud light!

I think I have a couple mint ones.

Id be willing to distribute them if you wanted to do a bulk shipment deal. It would almost seem like we should be looking to get the mold made here and send you some instead of the other way around. Doesn't seem like there are that many Subaru's of this era left in NZ am I wrong here?

Did you go to this?

The smoke could just be a bad turbo. Better watch the dipstick and coolant levels closely.

Some times air cavitates in the power steering pump and its a matter of bleeding the pressure/air from the high pressure line side. It can be very messy but what I do is loosen the banjo bolt, have someone start the car (you better have safety glasses/shield on here!), and then tighten the banjo bolt nearly immediately after the car starts. Fluid is going to start spraying out 95 percent of the time. Shut the car off, degrease, let it dry and see if its quiet.

Most Snap-On tools are rebuild able if you buy one cheap, take it on the truck and have it sent out for rebuild that is an obvious way to go to me. The trucks themselves often have trade in units as well at very reasonable prices like you can buy a Mac, Cornwell or a Matco tool that was traded in on a Snap-on for 25-50 bucks and then take it to the other truck and send it out for rebuild. The rebuilt units I have seen are often better than they were new. A few of the tools I bought came back as a newer model because they don't rebuild the old one anymore. The other thing is the Cornwell and Matco prices are usually quite good and usually the tools are built by Ingersoll Rand for them so they are a high quality unit that isn't terribly expensive.

Their interchange got it wrong this time. The plug is different, the mount is on the other side and its closer to a 2.5L 2000-2004 and up Outback style one than anything else Subaru.

I disagree I would part that car out too. The brat is going to be amazing with that power-plant in it as long as the conversion is done as professionally as possible. On the other hand at $1500 you may have paid too much for a parts car. I find them here for 4-700 or less quite often.

Hose to the idle air control valve disconnected. Its a larger 1" hose that goes from the top center of the intake to the left of the throttle body to the black intake hose.