ShawnW

As mentioned above the stubs clip in. As long as you use the same generation of trans it will work fine, a 4spd stub won't work in place of a 5spd one but the stubs can be swapped. I have this very thing on an RX trans in my storage unit that I built for my ea81 car.

They do unless they were warrantied at the dealer which is pretty common.

Its not the cover that would break its the clips on the air filter housing.

Mick and I put an 84 steering wheel on a 78 Brat and vice versa, thats as old as I ever tried. I want to say we had a minor issue with the horn contacts one way but not the other but it was something that could be overcome easily as I recall.

That intake is sweet I have seen just about everything for these and never saw that before!

I use only a dealer belt, it should be a little loose new, 10MM deflection pretty typical, then when it breaks in a little tighten to about 6MM.

I think the regular 2.5 is a great engine and agree that is a very nice looking, driving, and handling Outback/Legacy. Plan on head gaskets and timing belt every 100K going into it and you will not be disappointed. I also love the 2005 GT 5 speed Legacy Turbo edition if you can drive a stick you will LOVE that car.

Not a very frequently done project at this point.

I would have to look at a wiring diagram to be sure of this and I think you are making a large assumption. Just one ignition on wire being pinned to a different position, inhibitor switch lacking, etc would certainly cause a no start situation. I think you should obtain, borrow, etc an OBDII scanner. Put the factory ECM into the car and put the key to ignition on. See if it will communicate even. If it won't I would assume its fried. If it will start troubleshooting no start. For this I would pull a plug wire off the coil pack and see if you are getting any spark.

That is looking very sharp!

Its like a little puppy. Anybody that doesn't like it isn't worth liking. I think the saddest part is we never got another Subaru van in the states again.

The part numbers you were looking for are in the EA to EJ PDF file.

I helped build that car originally, was almost 5 years ago now. I bought the whole setup at Colo Auto Parts including the engine I helped rebuild and the piece of junk wiring harness that I really need to fix. We used a legacy 4.11 trans and it was very fun to drive. Center diff was bad and I think it probably bit the dust.

Not finding too many people that have done this. I did it a long time ago in a hatch but I can't remember what radiator I used, fans, mods to the car required, etc. Anybody done it? Dimensions on the Legacy one look about an inch too tall at least but maybe a Forester or Impreza one? Aluminum vs copper/brass versions?

That was so much fun!

This product needs to be shaken VERY thoroughly before pouring it in. While I agree its chunky it needs to be clarified that its more effective if poured as syrup in nature as possible. Shake for a full minute, add to a cold engine--to the radiator itself not the coolant overflow bottle. As stated its chunky and you don't want it clogging up the hose from the radiator to the overflow bottle. Its intended to be used to prevent not repair head gasket problems. I have of course used it to band aid a customers car until they can afford head gaskets but in the end they are leaking usually.

They will let you buy it back for what they think they can get at salvage auction in your area. This varies a lot. Here $1200 isn't unusual as the used parts market here is incredible. I hope you can buy your car back for $300 or less but don't assume you can.

Not picking on you, definately confused. The build date on the car is the key here. I can't tell from here. Its stamped on the Vin plate usually on that car it would be in the drivers door opening down low by the edge of the rear of the door opening and the front of the rear door.

Pull the drainplug out of the front diff and check for metal on the drain plug. Post a picture of it if you can. Does this mechanic know Subaru's?

You have been reading! The 2.2 swap is going to take at least $2000 to do. It involves a lot of little things, but for you its going to virtually require a complete Turbo Legacy parts car. The STI wheels are at 600 or so last I checked. Rhino Liner probably $500 to do professionally Paint Job at a minimum $500 and sky is the limit. Not sure what you are doing for a fender swap. Headliner can easily run over $100 to have done. Power Locks, I am not sure this has been done but I have been thinking about it. Power Windows can be done but you need to find a Coupe to get the window regulators and motors out of, switches, harness, etc. I hope you like wiring. The Turbo brat has plenty in it stock, throw some legacy wiring in, power window harness, stereo, CB, front lights. The wiring alone easily takes a week your first time doing it and will consume an entire living room floor or huge workbench. These posts make these swaps look easy. They can be after many of them, years experience, nice work area, good weather (Junkyard/parts car time), and parts availability. Your going to need a nice set of tools, 2-3 factory manuals, and a lot more reading than you might like. I have friends that have spent $5000 doing half that list to an Impreza and it took them a year and they are pretty talented people with a good job to pay for the project.

I have seen some with manual adjusters on that year and model and yes I would adjust them.

Pretty cool but its hard to show off a stereo install with a you tube video. Sorry.

Yeah it is! He should sponsor his dad!

Cougar is one of the best at electrical on these forums! Id be checking the pins on the alternator connector. Does the battery charge light illuminate when you key it to on? If you have a scan tool does it connect to the ECM ok? I use this to verify ignition on connections to many things at once and its proven useful to me.

Theres no reason not to exactly match it thats a very common car. That doesn't mean you couldn't do so temporarily to verify it fixes a problem but it could certainly create emissions, drive ability, gas mileage and check engine lights that would haunt you. That part number is superceded by 22611AC271 so that one works as well. Using car-part.com I found one that matches at a salvage yard. Randy's Auto Parts and Towing USA-WA(Okanogan) E-mail 1-800-553-4466 1996 Engine Computer Subaru Legacy 22611 AC271 A 6943 $100 Lots of others on there too if you do a search you can pick one closer or whatever makes it easier better for you. This was one of the few with the actual part number on the description.