MorganM

Damn I just noticed that he said $700 for a USED engine. There are lots of board members in your general area; you should be setup for finding a used engine. Ditto on AlleyBoys advice on rebuilding. I'm sure you know that this is no repair; its an overhaul. read: project Thats why I ask what you see for the future of this car; is it worth the effort? Also why I suggested some helping hands from the boys who assisted in its demise LOL

That's one fancy brat you got there. All kinds of fun toys in the cabin !_! BTW you reminded me; I need to replace my fire extingwisher!

Well you could do a few things. Obviously you seen how much ordering a rebuilt one is and that's cheaper than I've been quoted. You can easily spend $1000 at a machine shop. Could also get away with a budget rebuild or junkyard swap. Since you say it's not really ment to be the main mode of transportation for the family you might go the budget route. By budget rebuild I mean buying a core/junkyard engine and resealing it; fix anything obviously wrong. What do you see in the future for this car; if you did get her running well again? ps: I would be making the son who ran it out of oil, rebuild the engine and get it running. Maybe he wont forget next time how important it is

Wont get good milage till that engine is broke in Sounds like you guys are breaking it in right !_!

Okay, didnt know you replaced that gear also. I would focus now on what you guys touched All sensors plugged back in / bolted down ? Vacume lines are key; plug them in or plug them up!. Maybe the CAMS are off one tooth, not the crank? That would cuase some funny runing! Maybe just one cam is off by a tooth? Timing belts are bugger to get right sometimes. Youll get it, dont take it to the stealership

May the force be with you, always !_!

Glad you are back on track! Try some seafoam in the gas tank to clean that oil out of your chambers Good luck !_!

I read it loud and clear !_!j TROGDOR: Thanks for the heads up. Now Loyale duders can have some tricked out seats!

Honestly it sounds like a pretty nice system. I think youll be very happy with it. Glad I'm not the only one who looked at harely mufflers and said ... damn is that 1 7/8" ID? those might work allright on my subaru.... Ended up getting a hell of a deal on a thrush glass pack. (thx arch !_!) Good luck with the fabrication =)

Sounds like you should also address why you are clogging cats so easily. Unless you already know? You could take the time to cut off pipes from the cats, punch them out and weld them all back together. Good luck clogging 1 7/8" pipe! haha Seems that can be troublesome as the pipes get rusted out. Even double walled OEM pipe tends to just desinegrate under the awsome power of a welder! Also some ppl here have made some pretty custom downpipes and exhuast systems for the EA82t; maybe you could talk to them about replicating one or getting one made? Good luck !_!

Havent had a clutch fan in years. One electric fan should be enough to keep you cool *IF* the rest of your cooling system is upto par. We rarely see over 105 degree heat here (couple days out of the summer) so I cant vouch for much over that with only one fan. Dual electrics isnt that much more work Oh just had another thought. How about the clutch fan from a turbo model that came with 2 row radiators? If you really want a clutch fan (they really are better ) then you could try that. Peace

Isnt the keyway part of the timing belt gear? That's how I recall it on my old Legacy. How about a new timing belt gear (read: new keyway) a new key and pulley? That should solve the main crank pulley wabbeling. Tough one to diagnose; sounds like you guys have been doing a lot of work in there. In these situations I quadruple check anything I touched. Usually find something I forgot about or overlooked and go "DUH MORGAN!" plug it in and go I'd start with trouble codes in the ECM to be honest. Might get lucky and find out its the MAF or something :/ One trick I do is pull the codes, write them down, clear the ECM, start it up again, and wait for more codes, pull those codes. That way you know for sure which ones are persistant and which ones were just stored from who knows when. Good luck!

Ya ya ya... just another excuse to go OFFROADING! I see right through you....

Wonder if someone oculd track down a part number or year/make/model those fancy double DOJ axles came on EA82s and could just get some that way Or maybe they were swapped on from another platform? I wouldnt mind a set! Keep up the custom hacking there brushbasher; this is some neat stuff!

I dont have much faith in those testers any more. I had 3 different places, 3 different ppl, 2 different types of testers (one was a very epensive Snap On device on rollers); all said my alternator was fine. Replaced the alt and tadamn what do you know? my electrical problem was fixed. If you honestly suspect the alternator, just replace it. Dunno if it will fix your problem but dont rely on some dude at a parts store tell you the alt is okay I even tried a Subaru shop that came highly recomended (dude with the snap on system) charged me 25 $ to tell me the alternator was fine only to be replaced by me and fix my probelm 2 days later. Totaly agree on the above statments against remanufactured alternators. I"ve personaly bought ones that were junk RIGHt out of the box, two failed me within the same year, and ive seen others that ppl purchased that were VERY shady. Might want to flex that 'limited lifetime warrenty' all these reman vendors talk about Good luck!

Still could have been sputtering on oil, with out smoke. Takes quite a bit of oil in the chambers to blow enough smoke to see. Mine wouldnt smoke 'till i was out of the turn (after deselerating from the turn) and then hitting the gas again. Sometimes it wouldnt even smoke, just sputter and go out of the turn. I"d really like to know if that PCV setup helped at all after running them both to a breather...

huh? whats that? it DOES blow blue smoke? interesting.... -------------- So Subynut, tried any more turns with that new PCV system? Any difference?

You are on the right path. Ignore the assumptions and guesses on the fuel system. Fuel pumps dont blow blue smoke; oil in the comubstion chamber will however Your current setup wont allow oil into the intake again thankfully. Let us know how it all works out! Peace

That would truely be sad; and I understand. Fortunatly in this situation he had already bought them, and they dont fit I really dont try to make assumptions unless I am 99% confident its possible on first hand knowledge. The differences beteen platforms are more then I know; that is for sure. Probably would be best if I just kept those assumptions to myself, and see how they truely unfold. Just trying to help I just remember all the ppl telling me over 3 years ago that 30"s wouldnt fit on my wagon; wish more ppl had said GO FOR IT !_! Wanna try and put 31"s on your BRAT? GO FOR IT!!! Peace

Fine, I'll reframe from anything remotly to do with EA81s. Yall happy now? Good... Sorry you guys get angry in real life and take this stuff so personal. I'll try to point out every mistake you make also; THEY MAKE ME ANGRY IRL AND I FEEL THE NEED TO USE CAPSLOCK RUDELY POINT THEM OUT!!!!! (i should prolly note that was sarcasim so nobody gets more angry and takes it personally...)

I've found it's rarely the wire that fails. Almost always a device or other part that fails. If the wire isnt cut, kinked, frayed or otherwise physicly damaged they are pretty much good to go. Points of failure tend to be connections in the wireing or the device its powering. Peace !_!

I guess you gotta ask yourself if you JUST want to fith those 31"s or are you going BIG with this BRAT? With a 3" lift on my wagon, and 30"x9.5" tires on 15" pug rims (read: a little offset) there was still room to trim, beat and clear. I have no doubt in my mind that 31" by 9.5" tires would have fit BUT yourse are 10.5" and thats just too wide on Pugs as you will rub on the struts. Is that speculation? sure; but based on some pretty solid observation. With the 29"x8.5" on the same rims that I'm currently running there is still lots to beat out of the way and clear for. Do I rub a lot? sure; but honestly it has not effected me one bit offroading. The only clearing I dide for those 30"s was folding over/flattening out that unibody seam in the fenderwell, cutting the front fenders in half, and beating some unibody out of the way to increase inside turning clearance. There is stil lots to bash in the fender wells on the unibody. You want 31"s and major ground clearance for some seriouse offroading? As stated in above posts; I would highly recomend 6 or even 8 inches of lift. Thats going to seriously open your options to drivetrain modifications (read: tcase upgrade) and tire posibilities. This is also a HUGE project. Are you making a trail rig (like my little wagon) or a seriouse offroading BRAT?

WHEEEEHEHEHehehhehe more electrical problems Maybe I should have went to college for electrical engineering instead of multimedia.... Here's what I can tell you about yoru problem. Ignition coil is where I would start. Swap ANY one in and see if it makes a difference (in the case of swaping junkyard parts, use atleast 2 !_! ) I've seen coils cause the tach to jump all over on 2 vehicles. Alternator could be another posibility. Voltage spikes can blow fuses and cause guages/lights to bounce/flash. Seem them do some funny things on several vehicles. Your guess on the dist is another posibility; but I would think only on the EFI models. Your's is all mechanical and vacume operated; correct? On the EFI Optical dizzys you could have some funny electrical problems as they plug directly into the ignition system. I guess thats why I say start with the coil, then alt. Good luck

Pull the VIN and call a stealership Unless the trans has been swaped ?

True, true...